Kevin Bacon

As it should be :)

06:00 to 07:15, or 18:00 to 19:15?

Even easier mate, ebay to the rescue - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/331031331761?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108

Duraseal mate - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-butt-splice-terminals/7820753/ They do all sorts of sizes but I have red (small), blue (medium) and yellow (large) in my box of wiring bits and I haven't yet found a wire that wouldn't fit into one of them. Except the really big stuff like starter wire etc. You have to buy them in packs of 50 minimum unfortunately, which is no bad thing as I got through loads of them on my Corrado! Make sure you buy the Duraseal brand and you need a heat gun to shrink them down after crimping. Yeah RS's site is a navigation nightmare but they sell loads of useful stuff.

Lol, I don't hate Corrados :) Need more pics!!

Really? I also have an Edition 30 and find it to be a lot nicer than my old Corrado! :)

Yep, only the American OBD2.5 12Vs used that....and a plastic intake like the 24V's. Yep front end off to get the manifold bolts out, then rocker off, then side cover off. It's an arse of an engine I'm afraid. As I said in the other threads, you will need to modify the exhaust cam on your AUE to take that 12V cam trigger wheel, and then modify the side cover to take the sensor. It's potentially a lot of work.

Cool, sounds like you're onto a winner there! One thing I wanted to do to mine, but never got round to it, was to use the MK4/MK5 engine mounts, so that the weight pendulums from the top, rather than rocking back n forth from the bottom. Keeps the swinging mass lower down in the C of G.

I haven't looked yet mate as my F1s are (sadly) still full of tread, but they would be for my 18s. I doubt you'll get them in 15s :( I loved the PS3s on my R32. Probably because they were the original factory fit tyre. There's a lot to be said for that I think. It's the only thing that touches the road, so sidewall stiffness and rubber compound, tread pattern etc all have a bearing on feel and ride quality.

Looks pretty good for the money to me!

Yeah standalones have many outputs to control pretty much anything - intake flap solenoids, turbo valves, nitrous solenoids, EGR valves, you name it. Just looked at the Emerald K6 and it can't do DBW. That does make things simpler electrically and software wise, but it does mean more plumbing for an idle valve. It will run just fine like that, but it won't feel as punchy in the midrange as a standard R32, because the standard throttle mapping isn't linear. It sounds like you are pretty flexible and will be happy with it anyway, so that's cool. I installed everything as VW intended more for the challenge than anything else!

Didn't notice the 16" speedlines! Even better then!

Just stumbled onto this on Pistonheads - http://www.pistonheads.com/TVR/default.asp?storyId=25718 I do remember magazine articles about it many moons ago! Quite an interesting car!

Yeah the sensor itself will work fine, it's just a 12V hall sender like the OBD2 one, but the signal it won't like. Maybe you'll need to cut off all but one of the teeth, then it should work fine. It needs to be the tooth that corresponds to the crank tooth gap though. A schrick VGI controller will control the flap no worries, or any rpm based solenoid controller. I switched mine at 4300ish.

That's the one I've got. It's getting a bit old rattley now, and the direction switch is failing. Considering it has 325lbft, it struggles with wheel bolts done up to 90lbft! It gets them off eventually but after undoing all 20 bolts, the battery is past it's best and needs charging again. I think it's most useful for top mounts as every one else said!

Hi mate, the standard R32 ECU has 2 plugs. One is the 'engine' loom and the other is the 'car' loom. The engine loom is basically all the injectors, coils, crank & cam sensors, throttle body, flap etc etc. The car loom is MAF, lambdas, throttle pedal, power supply etc etc. If you're saying the 'car' loom has been cut, that's no biggie as you don't need the majority of it anyway. If the engine loom is complete, then it's simply a case of following the wires to each sensor, labelling them, then swapping ECU plugs. The Emerald wiring diagram will state which pin does what and you simply terminate the OEM wires to the relevant Emerald pins. Once that's done, you need to make up a loom for the DBW pedal and power supply, which is only about 6 wires. As for the Corrado wires, I just used the ECU and fuel pump relays that were already there. I just jacked into the relay signal wires and wired them to the ECU. All you are doing is replacing the original Corrado ECU with a different one, there is no need to replace or cut out any Corrado wiring at all. I think that is where some people go wrong. They get it into their heads that the Corrado loom becomes redundant. Strange, the 12V ECU shouldn't understand the signal from that at all, but if it's feeling better at 2500-4000, good stuff. Rpm signal is the thin green/black wire in the Motronic loom. It normally picks it up from the crank sensor. If it's not working, you may need a converter box which jacks into the coil pack wire for cyl 1.

Yeah I know what you mean. The AUE engine has 4 'teeth' on the cam trigger wheel, which is known as 'quick start'. It means the engine start on any cylinder. The 12V needs to sync to TDC on cyl 1 before it can fire, which is a bit inefficient. All part of EU emissions bollards. Anyway, said trigger is the left one. The 12V ECU won't understand the signal from it. It's more used to a single tooth as seen on the right sprocket. Maybe you can modify the right sprocket to take a 12V magnet disc under the bolt? You will also need to machine a hole into the 24V side casing and space it correctly. About 1mm should do it. The torque starts winding off at 4500rpm ish IIRC. Buy yourself a power probe! Invaluable bit of kit for this sort of thing. I'm not sure a complete Corrado wiring diagram exists anywhere other than the official ELSA books / PDFs, but KipVR on here might know. He did all the wiring himself. Yep, I do. I ran my Audi 3.2 engine with a DTA S80 and one of their DBW boxes. I think the K6 has DBW built in, which is dead handy. I would not waste your time and money on a custom loom. You will not get better quality than the original loom and you know it's reliable because it worked in the donor car for years. All you need to do is cut off the VAG plugs and connect the wires to the Emerald plugs. Then it's just simply a case of finding a suitable switched live and earth and the rest of the wiring is all Corrado, which I would not rip out personally, again, because it's worked for years. Don't fix what isn't broken ;) To figure out what wire went where, I just had the DTA ECU pin wiring diagram in front of me and I end-to-end tested the stock loom to figure out the wires. It's pretty easy, you just follow the colours back to the plug, cut em off, stick the Emerald pins on them and slot them into the Emerald's plug housing. I ran mine with full intake VVT (exhaust not worth it), stock coils, DBW, intake flap, the lot and it ran really well. None of the annoying ARMD torque management maps that VAG use. Just pulled hard everywhere with zero flat spots. Good luck! It's not hard, just take your time and be methodical and you'll be fine. This is the end result. Standalone bolted into the OEM location (using 12V ECU cradle) and OEM 3.2 loom terminated with standalone plugs. It doesn't get any simpler or neater than that ;)

The VR6's temp sensor takes about 15 seconds to update as well!

Good results! Torque should be close to your power when it's sorted.

Yeah I would mate :D Things can get real expensive, real fast. I wish I had the opportunity of a fixed and very reasonable drive-in, drive-out price at the time!

You'd be surprised. Not that weight has a huge bearing on cars that powerful - 1500 kg vs 1800 odd kg - but 4WD certainly does. And don't forget it's a HGP conversion, and DSG, so all the VW nanny state stuff will have been bypassed. You can just tell by the way it rips off the line. The Merc's electronics can't cope with that much grunt and I'd be surprised if the ECU gave the driver any more than 15% throttle just after he nailed it!!

Sunroof specific grease - http://www.amazon.co.uk/LM-SILICONE-GREASE-558-57-16-Content/dp/B00C1IV1MA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418210394&sr=8-2&keywords=sunroof+grease

I just get a Varta silver dynamic from battery2u.co.uk

I could be up for one. O2Q gearbox, MK5 GTI. cheers

Obviously can't be done in the original paper but these guys can probably get it close - http://www.volkswagenstickers.co.uk/