Kevin Bacon

For things like the fans and headlights, defo dealer only, although I keep hearing that the headlight ones are obsolete? VW don't sell the crimps separately, they come in pairs pre-crimped to a length of yellow 'repair wire'.

I wouldn't mate! When I did that on my VRT, the difference to low down pull between the Schimmel and standard cams was ridiculous. The standards felt flat everywhere in the rev range. If they're not working for you from a noise / performance perspective, it's not the cams themselves that's the issue as they're a well proven cam.

I'm at work and just have a PC speaker to go by, so can't say for sure, but it does sound kind of piston slappy. Shouldn't be that bad this time of year though and should quieten up after 30 seconds. As above, when I had my VR turbo engine built with new 83mm pistons, that thing was super quiet, even from cold, no slapping. No top end tapping either from the Schimmel cams and Schimmel head. So yeah, VRs can be quiet, but it's not cheap! I'd say ignore it Jim and just squirrel some money away each month for a rebuild or a conversion of some sort.

Yep as above, don't buckle the sump by over tightening the bolts. You don't need sealant if it's the rubber gasket.

It certainly is an expensive way to get 280 PS! It is the big daddy of the VR engine though, which comes at a price I guess.

Like it! Reminds me of when I dynamatted the roof and yeah, that did sound classy and more solid to the tap!

Looking great. I might have to pay them a visit with my Golf to see if they can smarten it up a bit. I'm ashamed to say I've taken to using the Polish car cleaners these days as I'm too lazy, but it always picks up new swirl marks afterwards. Isn't that the company old JediKnight83 on here setup years ago?

It's not too bad actually. I've only seen them shatter with uprated gear sets and launching hard up the strip on huge slicks. Surprisingly the O2M's casing is definitely it's main weakness! The end casing that holds the support bearing for the middle shaft ovalises, which causes the gear teeth spread apart, and then strip off! It's a big problem on R32 turbos. VW beefed that area up on the O2Q box. That's fine. You can simply stick a hall sensor next to an inner CV and use the 6 bolt heads as your rotation counter! Or you could stick a half casing from the Leon Cupra R's O2M onto the O2Q, which does have a gearbox sender. There's always a way round these problems, sorry, challenges :D Another thought instead of an LSD, or in addition to, Racelogic traction control. I tried it out on Stealth's turbo Corrado and it's bloody good. Feels a bit like the TC in my MK5. You can feel it doing it's shizz, but it's not too intrusive.

The O2Q from the MK5 GTI is the best bet being FWD but you'd have to pick up a signal for the speedo from the ABS sensor instead, as there's no gearbox sender. It's a lot of work though! The O2A is fine for 400hp Supercharger applications though as the torque delivery isn't as brutal as a turbo.

Not really! The diff was put in a few years before I went forced induction and as soon as boost came along, it started wheel spinning like mad.

Didn't do anything to mine other than a rebuild (new bearings, syncro rings etc) when the Quiche diff went in. Never had any problems with mine during 60K of turboness. The main thing is mechanical sympathy mate. Avoid giving it big beans over bumps, be progressive on the throttle. It's the sudden shock of regaining grip after a wheel spin that can bust a gear, and that can happen quite a lot over a bumpy surface.

/\ Exactly the same crap I had to go through with it as well.

F'kin brilliant :lol:

Standard map rate @ £350+VAT I expect. 5-6psi won't amuse you for long. Everyone always wants more. Boost is more addictive than Haribo.

Not willing to post, even for extra cash? Is it the 4 channel compact, or normal one? Series III? 4 x 75W?

So it is £93 then?

Yeah I had one of these a long time ago too, great amps! What is the price as it just comes up with ?93.97 for some reason!

Don't see what the issue is there. The ones who had time to get across got across, and those who didn't, waited. :shrug:

Standard is a weird setup. Harsh over rough roads and under damped on B roads, causing a wallowy sensation. Bilstein B4s might fix that though, which is their OEM grade damper, but better quality and slightly firmer rebound damping.

Yeah intermediate arrow needs to point to 12 O'clock. The crank one doesn't always line up with the marker on the seal housing 100%, but so long as the intermediate one is spot on, all is well.

If you want something forgiving, try Bilstein B6 with PI springs.....or do some internetting to find out what the standard spring rates are and get some the same but -30mm. Failing that, you can actually send a standard spring to an engineering firm and they will tell you the spring rate. B6 is their famous inverted monotube and the correct strut length for standard and up to -30mm. B8 and B12 are the same as B6, but with shorter strut bodies to remove the droop from lowering springs. I really wouldn't go any lower than 25-30mm personally. Even if you can go low and retain the ride comfort, the one thing that wrecks a Corrado's handling more than anything else is the altered roll centre.

I'll be up for it now that I have a clutch that doesn't slip!

Based purely on the way they feel to drive and the interior/exterior styling, it would be the VR6 for me. Plus the 4 pot engines feel kinda course in the cabin, where as the VR6 is more refined.

I think he is planning on using a standalone from memory, in which case I would source an ECU that supports DBW personally. As well as using DBW to simplify cruise control, idling and add a more effective traction control, OEMs also use it for torque curve shaping (i.e. non linear opening), so to use a linear throttle on the R32 spoils it's character imo. Well, I tried it on mine and it just isn't the same as the OEM throttle mapping unfortunately. Feels a lot flatter low down.

Yep, that's him!