stevemac

ECU will be fitted onto the heater scuttle panel, just under the bottom of the windscreen. Lift up your bonnet and look at the space immediately below the windscreen. The vacuum hose will be attatched to it. Not sure on the 16v but on a G60 this hose must be exactly 1m long, or the car will run like a b*****d.

Like jims 16v said - just keep having a look on ebay, you should be able to get one which has already been rebuilt. Alternatively, start a new thread on this forum - I'm sure somebody will have a spare charger kicking around.

LHD-G60 - red cars really do suffer quite a lot from sunlight damage, would I be correct in saying that the paintwork has turned a kind of dull pink colour ?? This can usually be remedied with machine polishing. Use a non-abrasive polish (definitely not t-cut) and a lambswool polishing wheel. Use only very light pressure so as not to cause "swirls" in the paint. Superchargers can occasionally be obtained from accident damaged cars in a scrapyard - although be sure to have it reconditioned before putting it onto your car. Suspension components are relatively cheap, so shouldn't be a problem. HTH

I bet your mechanic was originally from Leeds - they're all thick as pig s**t up here.

Here's the funniest one I've ever seen :- I was standing on the forecourt of a Mercedes dealer in Yorkshire when this guy pulled up in a F**d Escort. Apparently it had broken down - he says "can I leave my car in your car park until the AA arrive ?". I said "yeah, no problem - just leave it in that space down there" pointing to an empty parking space just down the slope from where we were. This guy is pushing his car towards the parking space when gravity starts to take over. The car starts to roll by itself & the guy tries to get back in to apply the handbrake. He couldn't get into the car quickly enough to prevent it smashing through a bollard at the far end of the car park. Car was totally f****d & I made this guy pay for the damage to the bollard !! Took me about an hour to stop laughing.. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Cheers Nigel, saved me a wasted trip there. I'm gonna have to sort my head out.. :fadein:

Feeling fairly pissed off ot the moment :- Sunday - broke the front spoiler off my G60 in MacDonalds car park. :pale: Monday - my works van got rammed from behind in the fastlane of the M1 (heavy traffic). :x Thursday - pranged the same works van on my way into Huddersfield. :( Still, if things like this happen in 3's, I'll be okay for the trip to Donnington this Sunday.. :lol: :lol:

I'm quite fortunate in that as I used to work for VW, I only pay dealer cost for any parts that I buy !! VW dealers only get 25% discount from VWUK on most repair items & around 40% on most service items. Also IMO still provide the crapest aftersales backup on the planet.. :pukeright: :pukeleft: As a comparison, Mercedes dealers get 35% on most repair items & 46% on most service items (including brake components). Used to work for them too.. :lol: :lol: :lol:

So would I be correct in thinking that if the mpg readings are accurate that I am unlikely to have a boost leak ?? Alternatively, would the increased boost pressure provided by R1 charger, 68mm pulley affect the mpg readings in any way ??

Looks as though 450 is about standard for UK spec cars. Everybody that I've spoken to seems to have the same reading. Gonna check my boost pressure tonight when the road's clear of traffic.. :wink:

Mine idles around 450 as well - I think that this must be standard for UK spec cars. See http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=4800 for more info Although http://www.snstuning.com deals with US spec cars most of the info on there seems to be valid for UK spec too.

Hi Ant, how's it going m8 ?? Jabba fitted my Magnex while they were doing the charger a few months ago. My G60 has the later type hangers, so I think it went straight on. Getting a Powerflow stainless CAT bypass soon - only £60 fully fitted. Are you coming up to Donnington Park on Sunday ??

Sure it was'nt A61 "hunslet road" ?[/quote:afbd0] H** LOK - I followed you this evening along Hunslet Road. Do you work at Parcelforce by any chance ??

G60 - sorry to hear your car's not well, hope you get back on the road soon. standard cam nothing other than MFA shedloads of power so if it's not spot on, it must be very close I suppose my original post was just to see if anybody else had experienced the same specific problem & how they solved it. Looks like I'm gonna have to do some testing this weekend. I'm just trying to get the car running at it's "mechanical peak" before I go for another re-chip.

G60 - would it be possible for you to check these readings from your car ? I'm assuming that the Canadian & US spec will be fairly similar. It may just help to confirm wether the readings really should be different to UK spec cars. Don't think this particular problem is related to the ECU vac hose as mine is only 4 months old and I re-checked the condition, connections & routing last week. What I'm trying to work out is wether I have a vac leak or not - if the readings that I'm getting are standard for UK spec cars then I have no need to waste time looking for a leak which isn't there. I'm running a R1 charger & 68mm pulley if that makes a difference ?

Car not running right? Here's some common debugging tips! 1. Engine running warmed up, unplug the blue coolant temp switch, does anything change? No = bad coolant temp. Alt: 1000 ohms resistance after normal operating temps 2. Air Temp (on intercooler tube) 500 ohms on outer two pins, you have to drill out the cap to get the adjustment. 3. O2 sensor, of course, check the wires/harness for any damage. If you haven't replaced this lately, might be time to get the universal and just crimp the wires on. $60 or less. 4. The TB -> ecu hose must be plugged in the right place. its closed to the passenger side. Unplug the ecu hose from the ECU , if the car still runs like crap, then its the ecu hose. Don't even attempt to drive the car with the ecu hose off. 5. Check your battery voltage, If the battery voltage goes low, the ECU dumps 25% more fuel than normal. 6. The ground wires, to the head, and everywhere else. Bad grounds are a common issue with this car, especially the one to the head. 7. Distributor cap/rotor, remove, inspect and clean dirt. Sandpaper any "growth/corrosion" on the metal contact points. 8. Wires,plugs, you should remove the plugs and inspect for damage, or fouling from being rich. 9. If o2 sensor goes bad, it will kill the cat real quick. Remove the cat by lowering exhaust, look inside, if its crumbly, turned sideways, or black, its probably dead. 10. Check vacuum through boost gauge (10-15psi of vacuum) or MFA (84-104) at idle. Anything else, you might have a big vacuum leak. 11. ISV - if you haven't rerouted it, you may have a leaking ISV. 12. Idle screw on throttle body. Make sure its not gone, or about to fall out. Usually results in "hunting" or high rpm idle. 13. Have you changed the fuel filter lately? Its by the passenger rear wheel. Easy to change, watch out for gas spraying you in the face! 14. Timing. If you don't own a timing light, you can mark the distributor cap and base with some paint/white-out. Unbolt the ~13mm bolt that holds the distributor down. Turning the distributor cap right, will retard timing, Turning left will advance. Advance = more power, quicker off the line, more likely to ping/knock with poor gas. Retard is when you feel pinging or detonation. I'd suggest, on the hottest day possible, advancing a little, driving, and advancing more until you feel knock/detonation or pinging when you first get on the gas. Then back off some. Stock timing is 6-8 degrees, with good 93+octane gas , you should be able to go higher. With poor 91 octane, you are going to have to back off timing a bit with most chips. Do you know how to test your boost levels? 1. Start Motor 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop motor 5. Start Motor 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Press the MFA End button one time. You should now see 84-104 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 104 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 84 is probably too much timing advance. Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! USA EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 15 200 -23.7 55 400 -17.8 90 600 -11.9 127 800 -5.9 148 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 172 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 192 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 211 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 228 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 242 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 255 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) 255 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 242 on the ecu :) Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended Taken from http://www.snstuning.com (DIY section)

I would start by replacing this hose & making sure the new one runs as straight as it should.

This should get you all checking your G60's out.. :onfire: After following the proceedure below, I get a reading of approx 720 (cold) and approx 450 (hot). Suggesting that I have a vacuum leak. Does anybody else have/had this problem ? Any likely areas for the leak location ? 1. Start Motor 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop motor 5. Start Motor 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Press the MFA End button one time. You should now see 84-104 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 104 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 84 is probably too much timing advance. Info taken from http://www.snstuning.com

Just the normal oval - looks very similar to the standard tailpipe

True, big job & difficult job are relative remarks. One last thing that I would like to add - G60's are much better off at garages which specialise in VW's. Most, even very good, garages are not necessarily aware of the correct G60 timing proceedure. The electronic "corrective timing" controlled by the ECU must be disabled by following a very specific proceedure.

No worries Roddy.. :thumbleft:

My point was that changing the waterpump, although a longish job, is not technically a difficult one and does not require nearly as much expertise or equipment as playing around with the timing. Part of GUS's original question was regarding how difficult the job would be.

Got a 4 month old Magnex & rather noisy induction kit. Sounds like a WW2 Spitfire when I get past 3k rpm.. :rambo: 8)

Your problem will be the factory speaker system. VW factory speakers have a very basic/bad sound quality. BTW - welcome to the forum & Corrado ownership.. 8)

If there is no history or sign of the timing belt being replaced then this will need doing regardless of the condition of the waterpump. G60's can be a real b*****d to time up correctly. Even when the belt is replaced in the correct position, it often alters the timing slightly. The G60 timing proceedure is a real pain in the arse.