stevemac

Could be many things - Cambelt rubbing on plastic belt covers Power steering belt / pump Alternator/charger/water pump belt Idler & tensioner pulley for above belt Supercharger internals

Worth also remembering that there are quiet silencers & loud silencers. It's quite possible for a single silencer system to be quieter than a 3 silencer system.

Have you tried removing the belt & "feeling" the bearings by turning the pulley with your hand ?

You'll usually get that when you either have a high-lift cam fitted or a very rich fuel mixture.

AFAIK - the single pumps are only available in 3 bar & 4 bar options. G60's have a 4 bar pump fitted as standard. Is your old pump getting weak ?

ard1, Make sure the bodywork is good - no rust or evidence of accident damage. Check the edges of all body panels for overspray. Check the inside edges of the doors for rust & around the lock mech area. Ask the garage for a full HPI report - this will show if the car has ever had extensive accident damage. If the engine sounds good - it probably is. Check there's no smoke from the exhaust. Budget for replacing most of the suspension, if it hasn't already been done. Ball joints, wishbone bushes, shockers, etc are all likely to need replacing. If you're buying the car from a garage - they are required by law to give 3 months warranty - get any worn parts replaced during this time - at their expense.

My G60 has 2 silencers (Magnex) & gets very loud above 3000rpm

Nope - way too lean. Should be about 450-500'ish

Test the switch by pressing it with your finger, then you'll know you're testing the right switch.

Longshot here - does the "full throttle switch" (pin switch on top of the throttle body) work okay ? Had a recent problem with mine & turned out to be a duff full throttle switch. If this switch is knackered, your engine will run very lean & get hot at full throttle. Easy to test with a multimeter.

It's all true - I have one of those engines in my lawnmower .. :lol:

Definitely looks beyond repair to me. Any cylinder bore damage ?

B4LJX, Golf Rallye one isn't a straight fit - lower pipe outlet is too big - needs work to make it fit. Golf G60 one has slightly different pipe outlets & "more or less" drops straight in.

I'm no expert but the thermoswitch may not be the only problem. This switch usually activates when the car has little or no air-flow through the radiator. When the car is moving along the road, the ambient airspeed usually is more than enough to keep the cooling system "in check" without the need for fan assistance. If the car is overheating while you are driving it (not stuck in traffic) this thermoswitch is very unlikely to be the only problem. What's the oil temp & pressure ? Friction generates a lot of heat & oil / lubrication problems often have a knock-on effect of generating excess heat in the cooling system.

Cheap enough - or you could get some from any motor-factors.

Founds some piccys - don't do it justice though, the car looked fantastic.

GIXXERUK, Nope - that one has a bodykit on the wings. The one that I'm thinking of is a darker blue & didn't have a full kit on. Extra (standard) wheel arches had been grafted onto the original wings to widen them. Wheels were about the same width as the ones in your picture though. The car was at the CCGB national day & various other shows a couple of years ago.

Was the cylinder head "pressure tested" when it was rebuilt (could be cracked) ? Does the engine overheat if you leave it to idle on the driveway ? Start the engine from cold & leave it to idle up to temperature so that the cooling fan cuts-in, while watching the temp gauge.

Cheers m8 . :D

I get around 25mpg - at 80mph .. :shock: It get's into single figures around town. :(

I like the wide body idea but hate the big rear spoiler. Nice engine spec . :D Best one that I've seen was the Metallic blue, US spec VR6 that Suhks (Westside) has or had. I know many people on here know the car I'm refering to. So far as I'm aware, it was done by grafting wider wheelarches to the existing bodywork.

If it's a 12v "pencil" type battery - most newsagents sell them - also used in some lighters .. :shock:

Good idea to remove & clean the adaptor union in the cylinder head when you replace the pipe. Renew the copper seal rings also.

Nice one .. :D

corradowales, Personally, I'd stick with the g-ladder. So long as the one that you have is a "good" one, you'll be okay. The trick is to make sure that when you have the charger rebuilt - make sure that ALL of the bearings are replaced & not just the ones that may appear worn. The price of the bearings, in comparison to that of a new charger, is peanuts. Even in a worst case scenario & you need to replace the whole charger, brand new ones are still available. A brand new g-ladder will still cost much less than the other types of charger available. Good idea also is to replace the oil feed pipe - from the cylinder head to the charger. These are relatively cheap & easy to fit. Any blockage in your old pipe will starve the charger bearings of oil & will damage the charger.