stevemac

Yes we do - not sure of the part number though - watch this space.........

To set it up properly you'll need access to a moderately expensive piece of kit called a "wide band" gas analyser (different to the type used for MOT testing). This measures the air/fuel ratio very accurately & allows the necessary adjustments to be made. You'll also need to be using the correct chip in your ECU - designed for the modifications that you have.

I always understood that the bonnet was redesigned to accommodate the size of the VR6 engine, although early bonnets have been fitted to VR's with limited success.

AFAIK the ECU has no memory at all & the proceedure described above by gradeAfailure is for disabling/re-enabling the ECU auto timing correction feature - necessary when setting the engine timing.

vr6storm, I always thought the same as you Roddy - G60 ECU has no memory, it has no reset proceedure. Chances are that something has "fried" while re-connecting the battery.

Get your G60 set-up properly & it'll leave the Golf for dead.. :wink: I used to have a Scirocco 1.8i (k-jetronic), that would leave my G60 for dead upto around 30mph - until I got the Corrado set-up properly !

http://www.britishmetrics.com/html/pis-bar.htm

If everything's tight, including the anti roll bar links - likelihood is that it'll be - 1.worn CV joint 2.badly seated top mount 3.badly seated front spring Front wheel bearings may be worn but these usually give an audible squealing noise when cornering.

Andi, I think a "CCGB only" section on the forum will go a long way towards bringing everybody together. Excellent idea & hopefully you'll get the official backing of the club.

Naa - handles really well, Eagle F1 tyres may have something to do with that though - great grip. VW recommended pressure for G60's is 2.6-2.8bar front & 2.3-2.5bar rear.... :shock:

It's to do with the position of the engine over the front axle - G60's have the highest recomended tyre pressures of all of the Corrados - sticker should be either inside the fuel flap or door post from memory.

Be prepared for some swearing - the old ball joints can be a complete barsteward to remove

Jonester, Use the standard tyre pressures. These vary depending on what engine you have. In my G60 I use 205/40WR17's with 42psi front & 36psi rear... :shock: Handles very well with even tyre wear.

Dead easy to do - just time consuming. We sell new wishbones with the bushes already fitted, if your old ones are looking a bit rusty. You'll need a vice to press the new bushes into your old bottom wishbones. Easiest way to remove the old ones is either to press them out or burn them out with a blowtorch. Replace the bottom ball joints at the same time - they'll be totally shot by now, unless they've already been replaced. You'll need to get the camber reset once you put the car back together - laser 4 wheel alignment.

There is a brake pressure regulator on the pass side - above the axle. Also check the RH rear caliper & make sure there's no air in the brake line.

Insane_VR6, 15 years experience, working for Mercedes has taught me otherwise. I fully stand by my above comments & so do all of the experienced mechanics that I know.

Agreed.. :wink:

Moving to "Engine Bay" section.

The main problem with using engine flush on an old engine is that it tends to loosen any dirt/congealed oil inside the engine. At first thought, this sounds like a good idea. When considered more closely, it's not. These particles can & often do block oil passages, etc. Engine flush is great for clean engines - to keep them clean. Once the inside of an engine becomes worn - engine flush is a disasterous idea. Engine flush is a means of keeping an engine clean & not a remedy for a worn engine.

ovalthemoon, If your charger is leaking oil - get it checked out immediately. If your charger becomes too worn, you'll have to get a new one. Badly worn chargers cannot be repaired !!

G&S in Leicester should have known - ALL VW's use green steering fluid. The difference is that the red stuff will dissolve the seals in your steering rack - not good at all... :(

I stripped my front bumper ready for fitting my RS2 & shortened my CAT bypass with an angle grinder ready for fitting later this week.

I have some spare poly ones you can have.. :wink:

Many motor-factors or vehicle styling centres will sell it & possibly even Halfords.

Unless the car is "force inducted" - as this type of engine requires very little back pressure, a well designed aftermarket manifold & exhaust will greatly improve torque & consequently bhp. :wink: