stevemac

:?: :?:

Great, unless the axle really IS bent.. :( Having said that - these axles are incredibly strong & it would take a very heavy impact to bend one. An impact to the extent of breaking the mountings would be needed. :shock:

From memory, it was a 190E 2.3-16v "Cosworth". The guy wasn't very impressed - it took us 4 months to get hold of another one & we had to lend him a new 300E until his new car arrived. Our mechanic either took a corner too quickly or stood on the power too early - he lost the car into a ditch & bent the bodyshell.

Broken Man, Take your car to a bodyshop who repair VW's on a regular basis - they will be able to either adjust the axle for you or confirm that it's bent. VW rear axle misalignment is very common - even on newer cars using the same rear axle principle. Brand new VW's have also been known to arrive from the factory with mis-aligned rear axles.. :?

Good luck Ian.. :wink:

:lol: :lol: Many moons ago (when I used to work for a certain Merc dealer in Yorkshire), one of our mechanics wrote off a customer's 6 month old car while on "road test".. :shock:

Louie Lungbubble, So far as I'm aware (although I've never done it), the steering system is self bleeding. Moving the rack from lock to lock a few times should be all you need to do. :wink:

g60pops, not sure if the G40 one is the same - the last sensor that I fitted to a G60 was one of the universal ones (3 wire from memory). So long as the joints are correctly soldered - you won't have a problem. :wink: I can't tell from mine as the wiring has been fcuked around with, plug has been removed & wiring is directly soldered into the harness. :mrgreen:

Yeah, but if your just changing the pads - no air gets into the pump.. :roll:

Hopefully you're right, although steering pumps don't like being run dry & it may now be fcuked.

Because it rots the seals used on VW steering equipment.. :shock:

Could well have been the PAS pump making all the noise.. :(

Same here - I think the "auto cut off" on some of the petrol pumps is a bit too sensitive. :mad:

Must have been a "left hooker" - they're not yet being imported into the UK :roll: (according to the website)

Nope - mine bleeds fine with the ign off

Is that 5v at the dizzy while the engine's spinning - I would expect power down the king lead to be a hell of a lot more that 5v. My G60 engine is currently stripped at the moment - if you need to borrow some bits, just let me know. :wink: I'm in northern Birmingham & possibly not too far from you.

Be worth £500 just for spares - so long as the engine's not "shot a rod".

After you change the suspension - get the 4-wheel alignment done. Use a garage that has laser measuring equipment - more accurate that the old gauges.. :wink: Well worth the cost & your car will handle great with even tyre wear.

:shock: :shock: ............ :lol:

2.0-16v was not built before 1992 !!

If you have a circuit tester - remove the fuel pump relay & test the power feeds to it in the fusebox.

You had any water near the fusebox ? Try a new fuse anyway - sometimes the contacts go bad. Is the relay that you're now using a new one & is it seated correctly ?

Fuse number 18 (fuel pump & lambda probe) is likely to have blown - should be a 20a fuse.... :wink:

Shame they still handle like barges though...... :roll:

So long as you use a probe which is made by a quality or OE manufacturer, the only difference between a universal type and the OE one is the wiring (on this age of vehicle). G60's use the old style probes with grey/white wires. The important factor when fitting a universal probe is how you join the wires from the new probe to the old wiring harness. This must be done by soldering the wires together & covering the join with heatshrink. If the wiring is not soldered/joined correctly - your new probe will fail quite quickly. Newer cars use ceramic probes with coloured wiring - these type of probes must be replaced with model specific replacements. Universal probes (grey/white wires) cannot be fitted to later vehicles that are fitted with ceramic probes.