stevemac

The "sale of goods" act is worded very loosely. It refers to "reasonable length of time" & refers to "intended purpose" etc. If the clutch was repaired & okay for a period of 6 months - this is not a "reasonable length of time". From my own experience (13 years with Mercedes Benz) I think you'll find that the law would be on your side.

STORM 2, - I agree with you. If the original fault (clutch) has still not been rectified, there is a very strong case for returning the whole car to Porsche. Unfortunately there are no "Lemon Laws" in this country as such, but the "sale of goods" act should be basis enough to form a good legal argument. i.e. despite sufficient opportunity, the clutch has taken longer than a "reasonable" length of time to repair & still remains unrepaired. Storm - my advice would be to seek advice from a solicitor who specialises in this type of case.

Here - http://www.expert-tecnik.com/ I'm gonna be getting a set later this year - if they're still available !!

I'll have to agree with you there Daz. Jim - just like me, you have the later bodied G60 with the VR bonnet, VR front bumper & wider VR front wings. Also like me, you'll still have the narrow G60 axles. Get yourself some ET25's - they'll look far better 8) I like these -

Just a quick thought - 2 more things to check 1. Double check that u have the correct cam belt ! 2. The crankshaft timing mark on the flywheel is more accurate than the mark on the pulley - remove the plastic cover on the top of the bell housing & check that the mark on the flywheel is perfectly lined up with the mark on the bell housing.

For a quick test - you can start the engine for a short period of time with the rest of the parts & belts still removed. During this running you will need to beware of the engine temperature as the waterpump will not be running !! Put the belt on & tension it up, then start the engine. It will be immediately apparent if the belt is a tooth or two out. From what u have said about the cam pulley - I would rotate it very slightly in a clockwise direction until the belt will go on. HTH

Found the source of my water leak tonight - plastic housing on the pass side of the cylinder head is cracked !!

dames, - word of warning - when you put the belt back on, remove the distributor cap & make sure that the rotor is pointing to cylinder No.1. I was in the unfortunate position of some fool removing & replacing my distributor back in the wrong position - consequently my intermediate pulley timing marks do not match up properly, even though the timing is set correctly !!

Cheers Darren, you beat me to it - I was about to post the exact same documents 8)

I was going at walking pace but the kerb stones weren't set into the road - they were conceted onto it !! They stand approx 12" high :mad: I just caught the edge of the kerbing & damaged the bumper paintwork & bent the tie rod. The boots were already split & the OSF roll bar link sheared off while I was dismantling it all. Steering pipes were already a bit oily but the leak increased in flow after the event - I'm hoping it's just a weak seal between the pipe & pump which was leaking. Engine mounts were knackered when I bought the car just over a year ago - couldn't be bothered changing them until now tho :roll: I'm on a mission now & I'm gonna fit my CAT bypass at the same time 8)

The red fluid will be Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). Okay in most cars but VW's prefer the original green stuff. Mine had ATF in too - seals were starting to leak badly. Hopefully hasn't damaged the pipes !!

I can supply for around half that price - genuine VW - give me a shout if you need some.

Supercharged, - thanks for the advice m8. Story so far:- I have removed the entire OSF suspension, OSF hub assy, complete steering rack & steering pipes. Outer OSF CV boot, both steering rack boots, both outer anti roll bar links, front engine mounting, rear engine mounting, OSF track rod & possibly 1 of the steering pipes all need replacing. I've also managed to aquire a RS front bumper complete with mesh inserts, etc. :rambo: Gonna be re-building this weekend. I need to find a garage with "laser wheel alignment" equipment here in Birmingham (my car's too low for the standard gauges) - any recommendations ??

Yes - only temporary It's quite normal for car bodies to flex a bit when raised in the air - even on their jacking points. Obviously there is a time factor - don't leave it in that state for much longer than a week or two. I would always beware of putting axle stands onto "sprung" areas (wishbones, etc) - they are prone to shifting when weight is placed on the car.

:lol: :? 8) Obviously compress the springs with adjustable "grips" before attaching the cable ties :roll: yep,ive seen that done loads of times...even seen someone transfer gas for a mig welder from a big bottle to the mig welder bottle with a piece of copper pipe :lol: I've used this method on the last 3 sets of front springs that I've changed :roll:

:lol: :? 8) Obviously compress the springs with adjustable "grips" before attaching the cable ties :roll:

Don't want to worry u too much but AFAIK you're not supposed to mix different brakefluid grades in the same system. i.e.you will currently have dot4 in the part of the system that u couldn't bleed !! So far as I'm aware when the brakefluid grade is changed - the WHOLE system MUST be bled, even if that means replacing the caliper that u can't bleed. IMO - stick with dot4 brakefluid - dot5.1 is only required in very extreme circumstances - such as racing cars, etc. For anyone else considering changing to dot5.1, my advice is dont - stick with the grade that the system was designed for - dot4 !!

So do I :thumbleft:

If it's been garaged for 2 years - budget for replacing both rear calipers (handbrake will have siezed), front discs & pads, rear discs & pads, possible siezed load sensing valve above rear axle. Also FULL service including coolant change, brakefluid change, gearbox oil change.

I agree with coullstar - do not use standard shocks any lower that 30mm - you WILL have an accident.

Unfortunately we don't sell either the Passat rear handles or lock mechanisms :(

OMG - unfortunately, we don't sell either the Passat rear handles or lock mechanisms !! :(

I have a bent track rod on my G60. According to the Bentley manual this is the replacement proceedure. Anybody know if I can replace the track rod with the rack still on the car ?? Tie rods, removing/installing Removing

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?p=107738 I'll know the price & availability tomorrow when I get back to work :wink:

I would check the fluid level first & then have the steering pump output pressure checked at a VW specialist. Could even be a steering rack problem ? g60knight has the parts available - if you need them http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10684 I sorted my steering problems out & don't need either rack or pump anylonger 8)