stevemac

Welcome to the forum chunkster Manual can be bought here - http://www.autoelectronics.freeserve.co ... s_page.htm Other info that might help - http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5464

When I used to work for Mercedes - our valeters used to use Autoglym on all new & used cars - excellent results every time

Nice short skirt too.. :D :thumbleft: :drinking: :lol:

Did they replace the rubber hangers too ? they stretch after a few years.

Timing is not adjustable on a 1.8-16v (k-jetronic mechanical injection). I suspect you have the timing belt maybe a tooth out ? Worth re-checking - can be fiddly to get right sometimes. Car will still run but will not have very much power. Could also be a blocked fuel distributor (quite fragile) - are you getting fuel into all 4 injectors ?

Struan - if you know that one of these other people that you've spoken to definitely knows the perpetrator, lean on them a bit. Somebody will "cough" & tell you who did it. Works for me. :wink:

Make sure the cables haven't been tightened at the lever end. This would cause the lever to be tight while the brakes would still be binding. The nuts at the lever end are just there to take up the cable slack & not for adjustment purposes.

Check your rear calipers aren't binding - common problem & check the rest of the running gear, tyres rubbing, etc.

No - I have a Magnex fitted. It's usually the bottom shocker mounting bolt that catches the silencer - the lower the car the more likely the problem. My car is lowered by approx 80mm though. 8)

Just get some 18" wheels - for every 1000m that you do, the speedo will only record 950.. :lol: :lol:

Jeez - I hate plastic women :(

I think most of us have more of a problem when the suspension is lowered - mine catches on the bottom rear shocker mounting bolt.

Does your handbrake lever feel "loose" when the handbrake is in the off position ? If it does then the chances are that the calipers are sticking. Some people try to compensate for this by tightening the cables at the lever end. This is totally the wrong thing to do & will cause your rear pads to wear out very quickly. The "squeaking/squealing" noise that you have is caused by "dry" pads. Remove the brakepads & coat the back of them with copper grease. BTW - welcome to the forum :D

May have just blown a gasket/seal. You'll need to drain the oil to do it. Get a new set of housing seals & gaskets, strip & rebuild - with new oil & filter :wink: Not essential to change the oil again but I would.

Should have 2 x 2 pin connectors - I for power & 1 for comms. From memory, 1 is black & the other is grey. Quite common for them to become detached from the gear lever surround - take off the trim & feel around with your hand. The other connector will be there somewhere.

Sounds like you may have been lucky then - external leaks are usually cheaper to fix. What you'll need to do is clean the oily patches on the engine, either with a steam cleaner or with brake/clutch cleaner. Run the engine untril it's warm & look for where the oil's leaking. Hot engines leak more oil than cold ones, it is to do with the metal contracting/expanding at different temeratures. The increased oil pressure caused by overfilling the engine will folow the 'path of least resistance' - it will find the easiest way out of the engine. If you had a dodgy crank seal, for example, that would now be leaking. It really is luck as to where the oil will be coming from.

Not many 2.0 8v Corrados over here at all. Mostly 16v, G60 & VR6

Make sure that the big adjustment nut is at the same height for each side - before you fit them onto the car. Always replace the top suspension mounts - front and rear. comparatively cheap & make a big difference. When you've finished - you MUST have a "4 wheel alignment" done. Very expensive on tyres if you don't. Any car body repairers should have the equipment to do this but try to find one with the laser alignment kit.

Just cut off/remove half of the bumpstop on each side.

How about an R1... :rambo: :D Stage 4's aint that much different to standard. :?

Better before the "rubber lips" modification though...... :lol:

has to be Salma Hayek from the film Desperado

My 0-60 time would be about a minute - if I floor the throttle in 1st, the front wheels just spin & spin... :lol: No wonder my front tyres are fcuked. :(

Could I just point out that the G60 0-60 time is affected by the fact that 3rd gear is required for 60mph whereas the VR will hit 60 in second. This is a gear ratio/rev limiter situation & not a large difference in power.

I've seen that & worse a couple of times on my way home from work - 4 miles in 3/4 hour !!