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Did it snap along the join, or across? I hope not the latter! That would be great. Do you have any pics you could email me perhaps? I'll DM you my email address Thanks JF. It'll never be anything like yours though!

its not actually too difficult. there are only a handful of screws holding the dash in place, and most of us are pretty experienced in removing the dash and centre console, this is just a little more involved. Excellent guide from Goldfinger highlighted the sneaky screws and you just need a bit of care to remove it. I've now got to take out the heater box as i might as well do the heater matrix as a preventative measure now that the dash is out. One source of noise i've seen is the cables running under the insulation on the top of the bulkhead. Insulation will need to be removed, felt underneath, cables on top and then felt back again.

you're not wrong Dox!. Its really surprising how awkwardly it has been done. I would love to have a loom that just slots into place - you'll never see it but just knowing its been done properly is good enough for me. A bit like wearing stainless steel collar bones as opposed to plastic ones...

Wow, a while since i did an update! Removed the dash to do the heater diverter flap. The wiring is a real mess, and the diavia install had wires coming in front of and behind the metal supports. Great. Needed to cut them off and they'll then be resoldered. Anyway, I was thinking of simply rewrapping the looms with tesa tape, but my noise obsession tells me that these may still create a chafing noise in the dash. A lot of the foam tubes have crumbled so it needs redoing. What have you done which ended up being nice and silent? I will also be lining the inside of the dash and centre console with felt. Thanks Hasan

I've just checked a 04 r32 mk1 tt and its ulez compliant. I'll have to check the various r32 engines though to see they're all compliant. Some have around £600 road tax though, i think

For those that have r32 converted corrados, what do you do about emissions and how is the car registered for road tax? Also, Is it ULEZ compliant? Thanks

Is the cl pump working correctly ie 30 seconds after locking it will run again? On mine, the later running of the pump caused the car to unlock. Changed the pump and all ok. I did dismantle the pump and it looks like one of the relays was faulty (which I'll get round to replacing). The actual pump itself is a basic mechanical device. I tested the cl pump directly by applying 12v and pressing each relay by hand to open and close - this was simply done by covering the discharge tube and checking for suction (for locking) and pressure (unlocking)

What's the ride meant to be like on these compared with standard? Might be interested

As Dox says do you have any images of the damage prior to repair? I think this would carry a fair amount of weight espcially if the repair was carried out well and the car has subsequently had many successful MoTs. Cat D used to be for things like broken headlight, dents or paint repair of expensive finishes. I think you could expect a slight reduction in value against a non-cat car, but if you can demonstrate that its all safe and pukka it shouldn't be an issue to the right type buyer., ie no tyre kickers.

James your dedication and supreme efforts have really paid off. Would love to see it in the flesh some time

Always nice to see progress and activity on the cars. It'll look great when its done

Oh dear. Best to stick with simpler older cars then! I was in Bmw i4 yesterday, stunning acceleration but based on the above i can imagine it would have nightmare repair costs. What exactly is the lift pump in the cabrio? And is it the same for the coupe?

Ah yes you're right shaun, my mistake. I'm sure there are plenty more examples out there, strangely I'm also a bit interested in the mk2 for some reason now. Not too sure on the eyeliner headlights but otherwise doesn't seem to be a bad package for the money

Nope nothing, in fact he said it was in good condition having recently been serviced! Says a lot about who/how it was serviced.. Perhaps dodged a bullet there

some serious mot history for a car that on the face of it looks pretty good. What would a full rear suspension refurb cost, approx? I think ebay cars look better than they are in reality. Enthusiast owned are the best bet

here was the tt on ebay that i was interested in - forgot to bid but i'm sure there will be more: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165957264015 Thoughts? Dox, i assume the mot failure on the rear suspension was the issue you were highlighting?

thanks Dox - wow that looks serious but as you advise apparently its not too bad. Saw one on Autotrader with rotten rear suspension but otherwise looked ok. How much would it cost to rebuild the back end up again? So the rear is too cramped to access or use properly? I was looking at a substitute for my yaris t sport, which is a 3 door but you can sit two adults quite comfortably in the back. Even the corrado is quite good at the back, ive actually had 5 people in it once! but 4 are quite comfortable

Carried over from the Schrick thread! Interested in getting a tt, as they're very accessibly priced at the moment. Ideally the 1.8t as i have the corrado for engine noise. Plus it may just be used for short trips occasionally. Ulez is a factor here, which means the corrado can't really go into london What has been your experience? Likes, dislikes, gotchas, comparison to a corrado in everyday use.

Some great points, and look forward to more comments. I'll start another thread as opposed to derailing this one too much.

great update and looks like you're almost there! I agree with Cressa, the grey recaros lokk very smart. Interestingly i too changed the white runners and buffer on my seats - just the passenger side though

some great work there to bring it up to scratch. Nice that the corrado text is still intact on your mats

interesting comment about the tt - one itch i've wanted to scratch. Which one did you have Dox and what was your general feedback? They seem to well priced atm, and in my budget - sadly not many cars that i like are affordable..

i think the effect of the schrick was the most significant in real terms driving. My 2 steps were firstly 264 cams, which definitely livened the car up, followed by OBD2 and schrick. I suppose i couldn't gauge the individual effect of OBD2 and a schrick but it means that you dont have to boot it every time you want to pick up quickly, plus there still seems to be a fair amount of pull at higher revs. If Dox is selling his, i would buy it! Unless of course you want to just supercharge yours with a Rotrex..but that's a whole new project

i had to wire in the aircon which was a bit tricky, but Neil (Science) helped me out with that. Otherwise the only other thing i would have left in were some of the earth wires, which can be useful. Other than that, it was just the wiring for the throttle body, immobiliser and maybe a few more things that i cant remember! I needed to do something for the immobiliser too, and the maf needed changing. Also, the main connector had to have some wires depinned. This was fiddly - removing these from the golf connector and putting them into the corrado one.

just in terms of how i spaced the time on doing the loom on mine - it was stuck in a big box in the kitchen for months. But come the Christmas holidays i though i would unwrap and make a start. I did a few hours per weekend - a fair amount of time is just untaping it and making sure the plastic support pieces are not lost, whilst keeping the shape roughly correct. It took about 3 weekends but if i were to have sat down and put a complete weekend aside it could have been done. Then re-wrapping, and knowing your high standards James, this will be more than a little time consuming, ensuring the bends are correct and as close in shape to the original as possible. So its doable in bite-sized time slots, as long as the car is not being used.