fla
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Content Count
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Joined
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Last visited
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11
Everything posted by fla
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Are the two ends of the 'axe head' turned up at all? If so, its likely to be a locking head which fits in a central swivel (that rectangular slot). Those turned up heads stay away from the locking face but just allow it to rotate onto the raised lock profile and hold. Hope that makes sense and not total gibberish - I'm quite good at that!
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Premier work as always
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useful info, many thanks. Didnt realise they charge that much just for essentially machined plastic! Although the Autohaus one seems good value. I'll see if they're trading under a different name
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Fender? Could you advise where you got the bushings from at all please? Struggling to find them. Dont need the milled bracket spacers, just the nylon fittings. Thanks
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ah yes, sorry. Those are quite easy, as fender says you can pull the gear out from the side and then remove the diverter. I put some felt in between the two halves of the diverter by sliding some cut pieces from the side and trimmed these to shape. There's enough gap between the two sides to fit some fairly decent felt in there!
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No easy way unfortunately, if you want to do it properly. Really needs to have the heater box out, which means dash removal. That way, you can redo all the flaps in the heaters box.
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Same here, mine passed yesterday too. I managed just over 500 miles since the last mot. Definitely plan to get at least 1500 this year!
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great development and thanks for the update. As above, its good to see proper commitment to developing a good solution, which you really have shown amply
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It really is a horrible job! On the face of it its very straightforward, but its just tye way the whole regulator is fitted, which means removal and refitting is a nightmare
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Sorry to hear about the job, I'm sure something better will be round the corner. Maybe share the industry you're in and if there's someone on the forum in the same perhaps they could help?
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Almost word for word to the message i received from Geraldharwell: hello are you still interested in getting this?. you can contact andy he has a Central locking pump connector for sale........... PM him @ [email protected]
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Yes, I've received mails from those usernames. Reported them. Sorry to hear this happened to you though
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Thanks for confirming Fender
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Perfect, many thanks. So everything goes above the matrix feed and return,and inside the heat wrap.
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Finished doing the heater matrix and refitting everything. Cant remember whether the cables go above or below the hoses to the matrix in the engine bay. Does anyone have a picture of these in the heat resistant wrap and how it is routed? Thanks Hasan
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James? I believe the campaigns had the earlier interior. Ever thought of changing to the late interior - i personally think it looks a lot better than the earlier, although the downside would be it wouldnt be the one it came with originally
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Saw you again today in pinner - gave you a thumbs up as i was in the wifes corolla
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When you move it to start to you hear the starter solenoid click? If not, it's prob seized but can be easily sorted once you remove it Edit: sorry, noticed you've already removed it. Try applying power direct to the solenoid
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Well nailbiting does help! Managed to get the arm off without snapping the collars. Used a mid-width screwdriver and patience...and bad language
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Some good ideas, many thanks. Found i had an old 'pen' of jetlube ptfe oil with a very thin tube. Managed to work a fair amount of this into the gap which seems to have improved things. Next issue is to work out how to move the diverter arm back a few teeth..
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The cog on my heater direction gear in the heater box is 1 or 2 teeth out. Cant seem to get the cog off and I'm a bit worried about snapping the retaining lugs inside the box. Im trying to remove the lhs gear arm with the cable attached. Any suggestions? Thanks Hasan
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Got a new Febi matrix, fits perfectly. Now just trying to cover those awkward profiles in felt to reduce rattles. Also using some fabric tape on the duct joints to reduce squeaking when cold. Btw, how do you lube up the bowden cables? All of them seem very dry ie friction seems high
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🤣 took me a second to work that out
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Interesting...
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Many thanks Dave. I just tried my old matrix and it fitted like a glove. So it obviously some.issue with manufacturing tolerances, but I wouldn't have expected this from Mahle tbh. This is the gap size on one side. Which one did you use btw? I was thinking of either leaving as is or getting one from Nissens