Neil VR6

This is exaclty what happened to my BBS G60 wheels. They used some wet and dry to make the surface where the bead sits nice and smooth. No probs after that at all. Only £15 per wheel too, much cheaper than a refurb!

Give John a buzz, he might be able to do it on a Saturday morning

The VW Approved Synta Silver is perfect and cheap at only £15 for 4 litres from dealers.

My Milltek decat fitted fine, along with the rest of the Milltek system.

That twin entry system looks the nuts, much better than a boost return IMO. Probably need to run a feed from the brake duct with that though and it's gonna be sucking like a goodun a WOT. Much more than the airbox box was designed for. I'd say an exhaust and downpipe (or manifold). At the moment you're pushing a load of air in the front and it's all restricted when it comes out the back. Also a FMIC is gonna be essential soon (then you'll need to sort the fuelling)

I use soft toy stuffing from a haberdashery and it only cost about a fiver. I can't honestly say it made any difference to the sound though.

Bit pikey. Why bother? For the cost of that conversion you could have bought some things to make the car faster or stop better.

I can vouch for that RadTec gear as a mate of mine has got a rad/FMIC combo on his R5T track car and it's a lovely bit of kit. What method of boost control are you using?

Used ones; bung 'em in. Drive gently for a bit if it puts your mind at ease but you'll be fine!

I used GSF wishbones with bushes already pressed in and they probably worked out cheaper than the price of bushes on their own added to the labour of pressing out the old bushes and pressing in the new ones. Plus you get rust and fatigue free wishbones thrown in. They're not expensive from GSF either. I stick to OE bushes as the suspension was plenty hard enough with coilovers. I'd also definately stick with VAG rear bushes :)

My old G60. :(

Replacing my lambda probe (with a proper VAG one) on my G60 significantly improved MPG.

Very pleasing DIY!

http://www.newman-cams.com/production_capabilities.html

Indeed :) I've since sold my G60 :( but that Newman cam was one of the best mods I did to the car. It adds even more mid range shove to the already ample torque, pulls all the way to the redline and tickover was only very slightly lumpier than normal. It certainly didn't hunt though on tickover and was fine in traffic. What's more, you don't pay Scrick prices as the cam's only £180 new! I think it was 268/272. The guys at Newman are very good though and deals loads in all kinds of motorsport so they know their onions. :)

Oil cooler definately, for the sake of your engine!

Best leave it to the experts. Try Hayward and Scott if you want custom.

Had a faff with it last night and the ingnition wire on the ISO connector is acting at the remote. Duh! I'll make amends at the weekend and take it from there.

No, 14.8v! I was also surprised! Alpine quotes their amps power at 12 and 14.4v so I can't imagine that 0.4v difference is going to do much harm? I definately haven't used the electric ariel wire as that's clearly labelled. I think I'd best sort out the earth before anything else, eliminate that first of all. It's a pain on the 200SX as you have to take the dash apart to get to the HU, great for security but not for fiddling!

I'll defo look at the earth. Interesting point about the ignition feed on the ISO....I'll see if the amps power up when the face off is detached from the h/u. I'm at a bit of a loss with regard to which wire to splice into in that case. :?

Power and one speaker wire down one side and RCA's and the other speaker wire down the driver's side. What's a ground loop isolator?

I've got a feeling it's something to do with the remote. I've tapped into the lead on the ISO which says somethign like "ignition" on it. I presumed this was the remote wire. It turns the amps on and off OK. I've done some research on talkaudio.com but can't see what I've done wrong.

I've recently installed my old system into my new trolley. It sounds ace but it thuds when you turn it on. If you don't turn down the volume before switching it off it thuds then too. The components: Alpine MRD M500 Alpine MRV T420 Diamond Audio CM3 sub Genesis Audiophile comps Alpine CDA 7873 h/u All the kit bar the components were in my old Corrado and there was no thud and I can't imagine the new speakers are the origin of the problem. All the cabling is good quality: 4 gu for the power (before the dizzy block), Directed RCA's, good quality speaker cable etc. All connectors have been properly crimped on. The power supply must be good as the voltmeter on the amp shows 14.8v for most of the time. Any ideas?

You'll need loads. Extreme "custom kits" are the way to go. I put two rolls in each door, maybe one for each 3/4 panel, probably about 3 or 4 for the boot and maybe about 5 for the floor. It's £25 a roll but to have it sent will cost as it's heavy stuff. ebay sellers do loads of it.

As my mum used to say if you can't say anything nice then don't say anything nice at all. (you big misery) On tickover mine burbles with quite a "busy" sound. It's not overly loud when driving gently but when you open it up it sounds like a manic Flymo (see avatar) P)