Neil VR6

Try here: http://www.nology.com/international.html#KINGDOM

I've got the KV85 Magnecors which are nicely made although the plugs which connect onto the dizzy cap are at right angles which makes the cables look more untidy than with straight connectors. I was desperately looking for the Hotwires but nobody in this country seems to do them.

:lol: I got the bits from John as he had them in stock (hence the "Mitchell" on the bags in the pics!). It was somewhat of a shock especially after I picked the car up from him on Saturday and handed over a cheque for £787 for a new gearbox and clutch!

I had a horrible feeling at motorway speeds when I first had my car. You'd steer, nothing would happen and then it would lurch. It turned out to be a defective shock. I was running Koni TA's at the time (30K miles and 4 year old dampers). I had them sent away to Koni who bench tested them and sent back a replacement FOC. However, by the sounds of it you're using much newer suspension. Worth a though though if you've exhausted all other avenues. Get someone who knows their onions to take it out for a spin; your sig says you've been to Stealth so maybe go and see the guys there?

As the exhaust manifold is directly below in the fuel rail etc I thought I'd bite the bullet on this one!

Having just suffered from a fuel leak near the FPR and the injector rail I have bought the parts you need to ensure peace of mind. The part numbers are: 037 133 990 Q and... 037 133 988 Q Also make sure you use proper fuel hose clips rather than standard jubilee clips or those rubbish spring clips that VAG tend to use on some coolant hoses. They're specific VAG shaped pipes as the pic below shows. I tried fixing it with off-the-shelf fuel hosing but it deteriorated within a year. The VAG bit's aren't cheap (surprise surprise); best part of £70 for the two pipes.

Do you get axle-tramp with more sophisticated leaf sprung cars?

Quite, which is what's more important in an American car in America. ;)

That was an F150 although it was a non Ford approved RHD conversion hence the poor build quality. The LDH versions certainly aren't the be all and end all in build quality but they're not that bad. Moreover, it's a huge American supercharged truck. It's kind of been taken out of the environment for which it's designed. This was emphasised by Clarkson driving it past fudge shops and tea rooms in rurul England. He was making a point. In it's element it's perfect. Oh, and you've never felt air conditioning like that which is fitted to the F150!

That looks gorgeous. Edit: Pic thumbnailed ;) - dinkus

My mate's got an F150 Lightning and it rocks, all 450bhp of it. However, only using the car at weekends still results in a £200 petrol bill each month and it costs £85 to fill up. He's the Chancellor's best friend!

None of those cars are modded. They're all stock cars from the factory. Granted, an Enzo is hardly "stock" but no cars on that list have had aftermarket mods.

http://www.topgear.com/content/tgonbbc2 ... s/thestig/

This is a lively thread which I am enjoying immensely. That quote, however, is just wrong. :lol: :lol: :lol: For a start the Viper can barely puts it's power down. The Evo has 300ish ponies, 4WD, a fancy centre diffs in which witchcraft occurs, and a rock solid chassis. The "lack" or power is more than made up for through it's prowess in the twisties. Just have a look at the Top Gear Stig lap times. The only thing which keeps American cars up there is brute force (horsepower rather than military). The Evo FQ 400 was 2 seconds exactly quicker than a Vette and nearly 4 secs quicker than the Viper SRT 10. The M3 CSL was half a second quicker than the SRT 10!

another contensious issue I feel... it depends how you're comparing them and how you class cars... i wouldn't put a skyline in the same class as a viper or corvette - 2 seater sports/roadster vs overgrown family car with a monster engine? hardly the same class of car... unless you're talking in price or power terms? Definitely. Whilst a big lazy 13 litre V8 Corvette Mustang Viper engine might make more power, it'll be sitting in a cart sprung jelly mould chassis, be screwed together with crabsticks and ovaltine and handle like a bag of spanners. The Viper's side exit exhausts melt the bodywork for heaven's sake and the only thing that keeps it on the road is the use of gargantuan tyres. On the gumball 3000 DVD, Jodie Kidd commented on how you really have to concentrate when pressing on in a Viper. It's a purpose build "supercar"! You should be able to sit quite comfortably on a piece of straight road in the middle of the Mohave desert at 120 mph. Granted you'll need to be alert but it shouldn't be twitchy. I bet a 360 Modena or a 911 will be solid as a rock right up to it's maximum speed. I get the feeling that the US car market isn't as demanding as the European market. When we get US cars over here they invariably have their dynamics improved through the use of different suspension and drivetrain (like manual gearboxes). Even jap spec cars are sometimes changed. The Supra TT in UK spec had a bigger turbo and bigger brakes.

I got mine in a very similar condition from andy665 for £300 with 4 good tyres.

It is likely to tramline quite a lot and probably cost a fortune every time you need new boots. The general consensus is 15's for comfort, 16's for the best compromise between handling and looks, 17's biggest you can go for a decent ride providing you have a good suspension set up. There aren't many Rado owners running 18's. Wheels are a very personal choice though so you'll have as many opinions as you do replies! I think 18's look a bit comedy big! (he says running 15's) :)

I just had mine done too, such a difference!

Sunday I mostly spent on the side of the M3 after the C started smelling terribly of petrol. Today I am mostly using my gf's car so as not to risk my car being engulfed in flames. Fuel feed hoses on their way!

Great purchase, I'd love to have an S14a.

When you make the charger work outside of its "comfort zone" by putting on a 65mm pulley, you not only halve the rebuild intervals but it puts lots of strain on an old and expensive component. Once you've done the obligatory 68mm pulley and chip mod, an alternative stratgy would be to do your best to get the boost pressure down. A boost gauge only measures unused boost which the engine cannot cope with so increasing pressure only results in more air “queuing up” to get into the engine. Things like flowed heads, ported downpipes, manifolds, cam etc will help the engine to make more power through using more efficiently, what boost there already is. I'd say stick with the greens and std FPR and make the engine work more efficiently as an air pump. Only upgrade the injectors when you need to.

I'd start with the doors if it's stereo related sound deadening you're after. I've got two rolls of Dynamat Extreme in each door and there are no rattles when I turn up the stereo. At £25 a roll it's more down to how much you can afford!

I'll give that "local" thing a shot. Cheers :)

Wow, what a find! As the mileage is sooo low I'd imagine that the problem would be due to something perishing rather than something wear related. Despite having only covered 9800k it's still about 14 years old so you may find lots of the rubber bushes have perished.

triggermyson: I was thinking that, the clutch would have barely bedded in! Definately try the gearbox mounts although if not it might be something internal within the gearbox but this would be surprising given how low mileage the car is (Even if it is 98000 K this is only 61000 miles)