golddust

I've just come back from living in Australia. No Corrado's there, in fact they've never even heard of them! However! Bodywork is pretty cheap in Oz and the nice warm/dry weather means you can get a decent job done anytime of year. Get it done there mate! Also, TOTALLY fill the car with as much stuff as possible! The airmail cost is HUGE! Cost me £200 to bring a bike plus a few other things back... Even if you cant fill the car, put in stuff you'll miss like Orange Fanta and decent chocolate! (they've got heinz tomato sauce now though!).

I'm with Adrian Flux. I pay £310 on my valver with all the mods. I'm 27. :-P

I have enquired about the handbrake boot from dub design and got this reply: Hello, the brake boot is more black then in the picture. I think the lighting made it look that way. It matches the interior trim very well. I wouldn't say it's 100% black but it's very close. Shipping would be about $10 for regular air (2 -3 weeks, no tracking or insurance) or $35 for expresspost (1 week deliver + tracking and insurance). Regards, Anh Dub Design Industries http://www.dubdesignindustries.com

BUGGER, it was all fine for the drive home from work. Then later I went over a speedbump and the dash lights went out again! Any ideas where the fault will be?

I've fixed mine too!!! I've learnt the value of a quality fuse. The fuses in my corrado are all the same brand and are the horseshoe shape type where there is no plastic accross the top. I blew 4 of those testing the circuit so I put in one from RS components where it's the normal whole rectangle of plastic like Halfords do. Didn't blow and the lights work for the first time in 6 weeks! I would have taken apart the whole dash on Saturday if I hadn't tried a different make of fuse!

What about the rather nice leather one from dub design? $50 and the dollar is weak at the mo... http://www.dubdesignindustries.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_59_60&products_id=148

That would be the white Corrado I was asking about! You dissappeared off down the H9... I was stuck in that queue that was going nowhere! Where in MK are you based? I'm in Furzton.

Ta very much! Was getting petrol on way to work. Also last night saw a white Rado on the A421 from M1 J13 toward Milton Keynes?

Bugger, I decided to see if this was the cause of my lack of dash illumination and... well I'm half way there. Fuse 3 WAS blown and I've got a new headlight switch. SO, I swapped fuse 3 and it blew as soon as I put the lights on. Guess this means I've got a short circuit.... Any ideas where to start looking? Anyone got a wiring diagram for this circuit? (Incidentally hiding the fuse box behind that pocket/tray made it extra hard to find!)

I know I'm missing at least one vacuum pipe but I've no idea where it's supposed to connect to... Think someone's done a number on my engine as there's a T piece that's been blocked off with a screw etc.

Mine has similar problems and I've done the similar service changes. My next port of call is the Idle valve and cold start valve.

SPOTTED and chased! M reg green(?) Corrado on the A421 in Milton Keynes last night just before 9pm. I arrived at the roundabout on the "V3" just as you crossed the roundabout at about 60mph. I gave chase from a standing start but was never gonna catch you before my turn off!

The plate S96 DOES have an age.... it's just it's something like 1908 ! :lol:

It's 185mm width, 257mm wheelbase: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=58255

I'd like a clear one please! :-) Assume it'll fit my Tamiya TL-01 chassis? 1/10 scale Skyline.

Not had any meet up yet as I've not had the C very long. About a month now. Should organise something, although as the moment it runs like a dog with 1 leg.... (not very well!)

You mean take her for a ride... :-P

How should I educate my lady in the way of the "Rado". She keeps talking about a weekend away and stuff like that.... While I'm thinking, crypton tuning session and proffessional valet....

Oh bugger :-( OK, Sunday I removed the Idle valve and warm up valve (aka cold start valve). I gave them a good clean and actually dissmantled the warm up valve, cleaned inside and reassembled. Now things are worse than ever!?!? After starting this morning it was desperately trying to stall and touching the accelerator drops the rpm to 200 and it tries to cut out, foot off and it picks up... Was just about better after about 2 miles but still not good! Very confused.... And before you ask, nope I still didn't check the injectors. :oops:

:shock: So that's why my 16v has been running so crap!!!??? It came with wolfsburg badges all over the place, and no VW ones.... I'm off to remove them for the drive home! Anyone got a standard VW one for the tailgate?

That is weird! I ended up dremmeling a channel up it then "hammer & chiseling" the plastic to split it. Seemed odd to me though as the distributer is fairly new but the rotor worn right down....

I've not checked them yet. I spent too much of Sunday changing the rotor arm which some tw*t had glued on!!!

I've got a similar set finished in Anthracite in my shed. They're only 15" though. Got yellow writing around the rim and look pretty good on my C, but now I got 17's ;-)

May as well I guess! I just figured they couldn't be serviced as parts. Will give it a go though. Incidentally, I just called "Wayside Part Centre" in Bletchley about a cold start valve, they're £117.80 + VAT and they're on back order so they don't even know when they'll have any!

OK, I've replaced pretty much everything I can think of to cure my running/ignition problems so now I guess it's onto the bigger things. Latest thinking is that maybe it's either the cold start valve or the idle valve. Anyone got any prices on these? I'm close to both a Euro car parts and a VW Stealership so all avenues accepted, including 2nd hand parts (anyone got some?). Cheers! So far: Fuel filter, plugs, leads, cap, rotor, dizzy, air filter clean (K&N). What else is there? Problem is crap running on cold start. Takes about a minute to do a warm start! Plus it runs crap when I floor it!