Chris VR6nos

I'm curious to find out if we can get the VR block relinered, then we are looking a a VR40 easily then you are able to atain 1000bhp for sure. Chris

I like the number plate hole but i've got the RS bumper and might look a bit too much with that large extra hole Chris

When you going to polish up the first Schimmel manifold James? Chris

This thread is getting so convoluted

Mine's the best, spent nowt on it and has 208,000miles and still goes well and still happy to go off the clock so there :onfire: :fist: Chris

Oh my God! £682 is going to make a rediculous difference to my VR and i reckon it will make me the ownwer of the highest Charged VR torque figure!!! Chris

As Tom said, remove and refit the offending lead and it should give a noticeable click when reconnecting, when the lead is removed try looking for signs of cracking or perrishing by bending the lead where the boot is near the connecting end and if there are signe it's time for new leads, try spraying with WD40 as a temp measure, with the leads being down in the head they get pretty hot and dry, WD40 is a dielectric isolator and will help this problem often by trying to sstop the path the escaping electrons are using to track down the side of the lead. NB Never spray WD40 or similar onto HT leads whilst the engine is running as it will ignite and cause a large flare of flame! i have done this just for fun when my leads were crap but you can be badly burned in a fraction of a second. Plus you will get a hell of a belt if you touch a leaking HT lead whilst the engine's running, Not advised! Chris

The Vortech V1 has always had the best sound for me but would get on your wick after a while on a long journey. Chris

You can hear the charger, sounds like an Eaton screw charger. Chris

I've just fitted a new one from VAG and it was £240. Chris

The high inpedance is 14-16ohms http://powerhike.co.uk/injectors.html Chris

Not meant to leave it on that long! :lol: Chris

Well i have the Mintex Extreme pads on the back seat of the VR and have been there for a while, i'm sure i'll get round to fitting them soon enough but can't find any bedding in instructions from what i've seen on websites but then again there might be some instructions in the box! Now there's a thought :lol: i'll have to look. Chris

Been just past 170mph in my Skyline too, the VR beats it on acceleration but the Skyline's got slightly higher gearing Chris

Wouldn't the RF kill cell phones too, i like spurious RF in the right place but i like my cell phone better Chris

When something's interesting i always want more posts to read so looking forward to the next installation. I've not been on the net for a few days cos the PC caught a few nasty virusy things, one of which was called 'Intcodec' but i've killed it now manually so i'm back on the forum at last. Chris

Nope left it standard, but it's making me want to chop out my number plate recess when i fit my FMIC Chris

Lol there's always one critical tw*t isn't there :lol: Chris

Looks good enough but what's the VR got in those blanks? or do you have a VR? or what other options are you thinking of? Chris

I wonder what came of these cats eye cameras in the end. Anyone know? Chris

My god, i remember when i was rare and there was only me Andy and Guy whom had chargers, how things have changed but it was good reading through this old thread for nostalgia. Chris

see, there's a silly comment already. it doesn't blow engines up, it's an oxygen supply to let you burn more fuel that's all! I have 189000 miles on mine and it runs nitrous fine, build it if you like but not purely because you want to run nitrous. I need to see about selling a few kits, fitting & calibration can be offered too within reason. Not to mess about, the WON kit with the 11lb bottle will be £600 which is £35 cheaper than WON offer them so who's serious about getting gassed up? It's the best way to get big reliable power for not a fortune. Chris

Mad, just put it together it's fine and won't make any difference, if you are anal about it then go buy a vernier and that will correct any wear or missalignment on anything in the circuit. It's not a a race or competition car and will drive great when reassembled so just stick it back together. Chris

NickVR6, It's just not that scary, just a bit more power when needed, the novelty soon wears off and becomes normal. It feels just like the power band on a two stroke motorbike when using a single shot with 75jets Chris

To start with there is only 1 place where you can repeatably repy upon getting the same perameters for mixture and air flow so you can set the nitrous jets correctly and that is at WOT(wide open throttle) so it has to be switched on there and there is no point in doing anything else. The idea of nitrous is to provide more power, if you have an amout coming in at 80% throttle why not just put your foot down 20% more to get more power from the engine then when your power has maxed and there's nothing more the engine can give that's when the nitrous comes in. Keep it simple and don't get carried away. PWM(pulse width modulation) is the best way to control the solenoids however it's nor really neccessary below 100bhp and 75bhp in 1 shot is impressive enough so for now forget about the progressive. The knock sensors are crap and no way good enough to rely upon to sort out detonation, it just won't work i've tried it. The power comes from the fuel and air burning in the right ratio, all nitrous is, is an auxilliary supply of air, this is where you need to concentrate your efforts. You can find switching solenoids in industry that you can use for making your kit, they might not be as good as WON pulsoids but these are pretty much all NX and NOS use for thier kits. Else bits the bullit and hunt for aa used WON kit on Ebay or somewhere even the WON forum, things come up cheap enough from time to time. The bottle is going to be a tricky one to get other than to get a one from one of the nitrous kit manufacturers, they have calibrated fracture discs fitted for safety. Chris