Rpmayne

Tried that first time round and stripped one of the head threads. Helicoiled that and then just tightened them until the thermostat housing was fully home (abit paranoid second time round). Don't think its the tightness doing it.

I noticed a small leak round the thermostat housing area. Took the housing off and found pitting to the head which I thought might be causing it not to seal properly. Used some of that liquid metal to fill the pitting, then used a new o-ring with universal blue sealant. Bolted it up and the thing is still leaking. :mad: At this point I thought fcuk it and took the front of the car off to get a proper look. Still coming out round the o-ring. Don't understand how this is still happening. Thermostat housing is less than a year old. Don't think it helps it only being held on by 3 bolts, plus the o-ring (genuine) looks barely thick enough to seal. Tried a thicker o-ring with no joy.

Know what you mean Kev, was struggling with the translation myself. Unfortunately I'm not going to be lucky for this weekend. The best sub £60 tyres I'm finding are either the Toyo T1-S's or marangoni zita linea (http://www.marangoni.com/content.asp?L=3&IdMen=146). What do you recon. Like the look of the Marangoni's but have never heard of them..

How about Pirelli P6000's? Found someone who may be able to do them for £67.00 all in..

Unfortunately it was mytyres.co.uk who I made the order with. Wouldn't have minded if they had let us know so I would have had time to order some more before the weekend. Going to try another ring round now with those brands. Cheers.

I've just been let down on a mail order for some Bridgestone RE720's which have apparently been discontinued. Unfortunately the mail order place didn't tell me until I rang them today so now I'm stuck trying to find some tyres in stock. There for a VR6, 205 50 VR15's. Any ideas what's up to the same sort of quality, and who would stock them to pick up in East Sussex. I know this is a long shot but any ideas would be very much appreciated. One eqivalent mentioned were Firestone FSV280's, any experience with these? Thanks.

That's what put me off with the Shrick VGI. Shame they couldn't have made it so the plugs could still come out, leads look tidy and bonnet doesn't need hacking. Are the VSR's still available from anywhere? Would be well chuffed if I bought a VR and found it had one fitted already from new.

Mines making a loud grinding noise only occassionally from the front right wheel. Appears to be unrelated to the brakes, applying them doesn't change the noise and they feel normal. Jacked the car up and the brake guard plate doesn't seem to be the cause, pads have meat left on them and the wheel itself doesn't seem to have any excess play. Now hasn't made that noise for a couple of weeks, no idea what it is but scary when it happens.

There's a little tag which stops the knurled ring twisting the wrong way, should be able to see that then twist the other to get it off.

I think its sitting about 40mm lower than standard on the 15" Speedlines. Don't get any tire rubbing problems, just the front seems alot softer than the rear. Wondering whether they don't offer a kit that low because the wheel may foul the front suspension lower platform? Thought coilovers were generally more compact so allow for extra clearance. Not sure cos I've never used them. If not I would have thought you could get some springs from H&R, or weld some of the coils together.

Think that's because they're made for the standard suspension travel, the normal limit of which is close to the lowered height so effectively always on the bump stops. Had a mk1 Golf which someone hadn't cut the front bump stops down. May aswell have replaced the suspension with scaffolding poles.

I'm still not convinced that the Gmax kit I was sold was actually for the VR. I've got some speed bumps on the way into work and when I crawl over them the front noticably dives alot more than the rear. No major handling issues, just the Golf kit I had seemed alot more even all round. The floor occassionally bottoms out on speed bumps, and the splitter hits the road when driving occassionally aswell. Just feels abit soft. Question is, when they change suspension kits to suit the VR, 16V etc, do they just uprate the springs for the extra weight or are the shocks different aswell? Wondering whether to try some different springs.

If its K-jet there should be fuel lines running from the top of the airbox, where the flap inside moves with the air flow and changes the fuel accordingly. Had a pipercross on a 8v ('90 digifant) golf and was very pleased with it. Excellent fit, cool noise and seemed to help the acceleration. Had a 4-1 manifold and exhaust, induction kit, and after the head was reconditioned it went from standard (112bhp i assume it started with) to 140bhp (rolling road).

Recently there was a thread with the part numbers for the screw covers at the bottom corners of the clocks surround. Have tried searching but the forum enters debug mode and won't work. Anyone got any ideas what those part numbers were? Thanks.

Cheers kev. Have been getting a loud grinding / squeaking noise from the RHS front wheel occassionally. Thought it might be the caliper bottoming out on the lip of the disk but the pads have about 5mm and the disks are 21mm thick. Maybe that disk guard plate is touching occassionally.

Does anyone know off the top of their head the minimum thickness for the front disks and pads (friction part)?

I've got a '94 VR6 and have just won the following on ebay. Worked out as £30 delivered which seems to be the cheapest and easiest option. Will let you know if it works next week when I should recieve it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... cN__Stores

Thanks. Would like to go the skpang route for easiness but a little pricely, think I'll try the kit form from andywhittaker and the converter. Should have most of the components at work, so I recon £30 all in should cover it. Take it the free version of VagCom is pretty cut down compared to the registered copy. Like the look of those 1/4mile graphs you can plot, hoping the free one does that. :D

Phil, that's more the price range I'm looking, what software are you using and does it work with a RS232-USB converter? My laptop doesn't support RS232.

There seems to be alot of different types of cables compatible with the OBD2 connector and a laptop running the VAG-COM software from Ross Tech. They seem to range from a straight cable with minimal circuitry contained on the OBD2 connector for about £30.00, to ones with interface boxes going from £50.00ish upwards. Has anyone bought any of these cables? Any idea what the differences are? Was thinking of going for the cheapest but, by normal 'you get what you pay for', would like to know how they are selling them that cheap.. Any recommendations?

Thanks for that, didn't get a chance this weekend as I've now got a coolant leak near the thermostat which I couldn't find, but will have a go soon.

Does anyone know what size spanner I'll need to change the lambda sensor on a VR? Also any tips to make it easier, tried with an adjustable spanner but couldn't get enough room to move. Thanks.

Anyone want a used VR6 Milltek system then going cheap, one careful owner? :wink: Seriously though, at the time loads of people were saying the Millteks were very good, wish I had looked around for more options now. Does change car to car, I had a Scorpion on a mk2 golf with no knocking at all, yet the Corrado version is supposed to be an interference fit. Bought one second hand but never fitted for that reason.

Must admit that my Milltek has never really fitted as well as I'd hoped. Still hitting the bumper / floor / rear beam. Sounds good and looks good, just not sure about the fitment. Could be it needs adjusting again or has been made badly so I'm stuck with it...

Good fun with a VR aswell, only way I could see wasto undo the front and LHS engine mounts, jack the engine up on that side then use abit of wood to push the engine to the right just to get clearance to remove it. Anyone find a better way of doing that? Not alot of space to do things really.