RW1

Yes definitely an enjoyable day. Interesting vehicles, some memory joggers like it was yesterday when I was knee high to a grass hopper. Hill climb was fun to watch as was the walk round the pits. Good facilities and plenty going on. And some real enthusiasts when you got chatting to others. Dam good day! Cheers Dave/Judith. And plenty of old friends and new friends today :thumbleft: .

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Look for an air leak where you have been working or the ISV is stuck partly open. .

If you mean this.... Not valid for the RHD UK models. That repair kit is for the LHD models. Totally different system. UK is the Teves MkIV system, which has the servo/brake master cylinder on the RH side and the ABS/EDL control block/pump on the LH side as we all know in the UK. .

I would look at the rear hose at the back of the disc. It may have collapsed. Just take it off and see if you can pass a piece of electrical wire through it easily. .

- Is the 5 amp fuse OK in the top of the fan controller? - Clean the engine connector (42 way), particularly pin & socket 9 - brown/white stripe. - Clean/check 4 pin connector behind the fuse panel. Has a Black/red stripe wire and brown/white stripe passing through it. Brown/white stripe is the wire that is important. - At the temp sensor connector, check the brown/green stripe wire goes to earth. The Brown/White stripe is the above going thro' to the fuse panel. The circuit is live without ignition and will only switch on if the coolant temp has tripped the sensor. After that, internals of fan controller, corrosion on wire connections? .

It is a separate little unit on the back of the clocks. Fudged :shrug: Exchange is the only way. .

Could be the output speed pulses from the Hall Sender unit on the speedo cable at the back of the instruments are not working correctly. Reason I don't suspect the controller is the "mind of it's own" suggests its getting the speed pulse signal intermittantly. The speedo won't show as that is a cable drive input. .

The beige parts in the Storm were sprayed with Satin beige paint where black plastic was used. The beige self coloured plastic had a similar finish of satin. I think black parts would be a similar satin finish but through using only the plastic moldings themselves, no paint. .

Believe its a 29mm size. Torque 35Nm. If it doesn't come with a fibre washer fitted, then N 043 808 3 should do the trick. .

Sunroof seals will always leak as fitted to the Corrado. They only deflect the water when its a bit more than a misting. That is why in part, there is a drip collection trough inside the frame. If its not leaking now (old one, then the black felt part is clogged with dirt). The important bit is the profile does not cause extra load on the mechanism by being too wide for the gap. Obviously if the seal is not wide enough to fill the gap, then it is also unsuitable as leakage will be more severe. And the other important bit is when a new seal is fitted. Inside the "U" shaped gripping part should be sealed with something like copydex or a smear of thicker brake grease to stop the capilliary action of the rain running round the metal lip edge into the interior. .

Try looking at the rear light bulbs on both sides, substitute a spare into each position and test, then move to the next position. In one position it may clear the problem. Sometimes a faulty bulb causes an alternative earth path through another bulb filament. .

yes you do. .

Won't be buying as I have enough existing modified switches. Just so happens I have one of each of the switches (Euro/UK) on my study desk I was repairing last night. As said, yes I think they should work from China with the plastic keyway peg knocked off. I can't make out in the photo the pin connection idents (engraved on the base plate of the switch by each pin) ie X, 31, 56, 56e etc. 56D missing shouldn't be an issue unless someone is wanting to retain the dim-dip. Dim-dip is the side lights on and also the headlights on at less than full brightness with the sidelights only selected on the switch. The dim-dip systems is the wire wound resistor and yellow wiring behind the left headlight. A yellow wire also runs to the dash connector (pin 56D) at the back of the headlight switch. If not connected, it doesn't really matter but if someone is using, I mention it for reference. All VW's of the era had this, not just the Corrado. The unknown for me is the 3 legged electronics in the photo. In my jotting above, I assumed it replaces the rheostat resistor in the original switch which controls the brightness of the dash illumination on dials and switches. My concern here is whether the output supply is "chopped" to reduce voltage. That will work with filament bulbs but LEDs unsure. Somebody with more knowledge of modern voltage control my be able to enlighten, so I raise it as a caution given I know some on here have converted dash switch and dash dial illumination to LEDs. Pity a one off sample couldn't be sent over to try. .

The key way will need to be knocked off as its not the correct orientation as a 535 941 531F on UK post 1992 C's. Also, what does that electronic 3 legged item inside do??? I'll guess it some kind of voltage regulator to dim the voltage to the dash lamps. May affect the way LEDs work if anyone has substituted the dash bulbs for LEDs. Pin 56D is missing which controls the dim-dip (yellow wire in loom connection) if anyone still uses that??? The pin is positioned just below the part number. The switch base connections look to be the equivalent of 535 941 531D. LHD Corrado fit which makes sense with China. Unless the pin idents have moved, it should work. . .

GPC Ebay under chubnut9999 .

I think the only option you have at the moment is to check the wires are OK at the probe end under the car on the cat converter and/or change the probe itself. The rest is going to a fairly long digging around. If the ECU relay 109 was at fault, the engine ECU would be troublesome as well. . ---------- Post added at 12:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:12 AM ---------- You've not removed the Carbon Canister by any chance? .

It is the Lambda Probe Heating relay J278. The engine ECU drives it off ECU pin 28. If you've swapped it, then the ECU control output on pin 28 is not happy. The power to drive the relay comes off the Engine ECU relay (109) directly. The lambda supply it switches in, comes off Fuse 18 20Amp. I suggest you borrow a lambda probe and plug it in to the engine bay connection at the back driver's side corner without running the engine and see if it stops the relay chattering. If not, then its a delve into why the Engine ECU output on its pin 28 is oscillating. .

No1 is defo busted rings. No.6 on the way out. Wouldn't bother trying to measure, they need doing or...... Vindis offered me a VR6 new half block and pistons for £500 at GTi on Sunday. They took it home. Maybe worth call. Nice busted chain tensioner you got there as well! .

Yes dealer only, got quite a lot with the Corrado in when it was a current model in the range of new VW's. .

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270658111153&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT and VW's 000 979 950 are the same thing. ie. Coroplast furry tape. The VW I have, and the cardboard roll core states Coroplast. Great for stopping plastic panels rattling or making itching noises as well. .

This was good advice. The screw is only for retaining the disc in place while the wheel bolts are out. That is its sole purpose. It carries no load when the wheel and wheel bolts are in place. .

If you go to ETKA, look at the dash looms towards the back end of the 09 electrical section, you will see it listed as an item. ie. Item 14 - 533 867 910 A felt strip (adhesivel) 'order qty. 25' I suspect it may not be the same as the factory, ie its a tape where as the factory is tubular foam. This how the looms are expected to be repaired. Alternatively you can buy anti-rattle felt as 000 979 950 - Black, 5 metres length at £4.29 + VAT. This is self adhesive 1 cm wide tape with an outer skin of felt material. .

Bear in mind that late switches such as the Chinese Jetta may have a Central Electric Controller Unit linked to it. The CE unit carries the circuit current/volts. The dash switch may not be upto carrying direct circuit currents as in the Corrado electrical circuit. .

Take the fuse tray out. Put your hand up inside the dash behind the dash switch and push it out. .