RW1

Wasn't suggesting the foam went back on as such, I thought everyone was struggling with the goo and how best to get it off without wrecking the paint surface????? . :wink: Each to their own after its cleaned ............ .

VAG-COM lead.... make sure it's electrically isolated type not optically isolated as some cars won't work. Also, a G60 unless a very, very late one is a hybrid analogue / digital diagnositcs system. ABS is digit, ie. VAG-COM, engine is analogue and uses llamp blink code (pain and long winded). PM me with your chassis number and I will be able to tell you whether the engine is digital or not. VAG-COM version if registered is v409.1 will do the C and is the non-CAN databus version (later post 2002 VW cars). It may well not be worth spending money on this Corrado as all you may be able to do is the ABS. Measure the wheel sensors 1.2kohm +/- 300 ohms is OK otherwise duff. This a the most likely problem. .

The official VW stuff is... D 009 400 01 (VW part number) "Cleaning Solution - For cleaning all surfaces which come into contact with primer or adhesive." It's used a lot for cleaning all sorts of jobs on the body work and by the way the manual states to clean painted body work when doing such jobs as the rear quarter side windows, it would appear to be paint safe (But I would test before going mad under the bonnet with it!). Looks like it softens and removes the goo. The instruction for the foam pads is....... "Before sticking on the insulation material, the underside of the bonnet must be cleaned - cleaning agent D 009 400 01." I'm sure the parts department would be able to get hold of it but it may only come in "commercial" sized quantities. ie. more than one car's worth. Therefore it could cost a bit. .

Yes there is but it is subtle until you line a couple of before / after Corrados. The wings flair out slightly more on post 1990 made cars. Plus inner wing liners change. Mechanically they both fit the same but the early ones have less clearance for a wide tyre tread ie, 205. Under extreme cornering, the clearances are close. .

May be it has to be a release agent like superglue has one rather than a solvent. Bodyshop person may be able to advise. It has to be "good" glue due to the heat under the bonnet. .

Yeah, a piece of initial UK Corrado history the first red press & dealer test cars. I'm sure there's another one still knocking about but I last saw it in the flesh from that set of registrations 6 years ago. So you be carefull with it :wink: .

They were all BBS initially but these caps and the VW ones don't last. Some dealers changed tham over cos they were shinier to sell the cars when new! Even the VW advertising changed the caps for the photos taken at the time of the Blue Storm poster & Sales Brochure. Also notice what's in the wheel spoke of the Storm advert photo. That version of solitude does exist, not a photoshop job but is very rare and was associated with the Mk3 Golf a year earlier than the Storms. . Still got my original BBS caps packed away. .

Cocky, 175 UK chances and 271 worldwide to go. .

Halfords or any motor factors has that stuff. Comes in little bottle but just check with a meter from the rear connection pins to the point of contact you can get a circuit. .

Colour of the wire in the picture. .

Can't make it out, whats the colour of the wire (* with * stripe)? It looks like a 16v, what year? .

Oh it can be beaten. No! It's the not the longest serving member of the fleet. That one is just coming upto 12 years (145,000 miles) but it ain't a C.

9 years, 1 year old when bought.

The fan cut - off thermoswitch is on the forward driver's side corner of the rocker cover. (Where the red coloured digits are in the photo bottom left corner, slightly further towards the front of the car.) Have a look round there but I presume there's more length of wire around than is visible in the photo. .

The switches do differ in that the D-D switch has an extra pin (58D) and an extra set of contacts built into the switch plate and if the bog standard owner wanted D-D, the non D-D switch cannot operate the UK D-D circuit even if the yellow wire is fitted. The other way round it doesn't matter as the wire is missing on non-UK cars, so the switch contact (58D) connects to open space. But..... also the end fitting plug at the dash and the switches back plate do have orientation key ways (can be broken off to suit) which prevent fitting the wrong switch standard for the car. .

I suspect there is a anti-corrosion coating on the surface. Need to carefully emery the surface to get through to the metal. .

Yes, it is not actually part of the heater control panel. The air con switch unit is part 535 959 543. The modified 12volts socket surround is 535 863 284B - 01C(black) and the heater control panel if you notice has the legend "AIR Condition". The heater control panel is LHD in the photo (obviously) but the detail is that the fan speed & direction controls are the opposite hand to a RHD panel. VAG didn't not fit factory Air Con for the RHD C's so no heater control panel exists as a spare for a RHD with the "AIR Condition" legend. The owner went to Preh-Werke, Rheinmetall Elektronik of Bad Neustadt, Germany who made the original LHD/RHD heater control panels and after 3 months of diplomacy (pestering), one appeared free of charge out of the blue, correctly made in RHD layout with and "AIR Condition" legend (c. Winter1997/1998). .

Never used the stuff. Essential to make sure both the pan lip and the block face are clean. Pan is usually easy as a wipe does that. The bottom engine block face I use 3M's Scotch Brite lightly to remove the crud then fine emery paper to finish. Not about rubbing the metal away just getting a clean surface with no irregularities. Then put the small sump bolts in at the front/back centre line point of the car at both the front and rear of the sump and work outwards to the wheels on either side when fitting the rest of the bolts. This stops the sump pan bananering in the middle leading to possible leaks/weeping. Same goes for starting in the middle with final tightening up of the bolts. .

The Corrado dashes are a mix of either way dash item, left handed or right handed. Heater controls are handed cos the whole unit in the dash swaps sides so cables won't be the correct length etc. Headlight switch is common handed but may not be a dim-dip version. Dash switches the same either way of the dash, just minor cosmetic changes. There's probably more in the detail of things....... such as: The Aircon switches are separate but what was never available was the three rotor controls panel having aircon illuminated legends. Only one exists to my knowledge in a RHD Corrado. Specially done at the vendors/suppliers factory for a UK owner as a one off. .

20Nm (15ft lb). Just nipped up otherwise you risk stripping the block's threads. .

Is this what you were after? .

ermmm, No. The Storm came from Preston after it's accident took out the front wing and suspension and rear offside. Owner well pleased with the recommendation as I am always with them. Been using them for the last 20 years for bodywork repairs. Part of an old VW / Audi delearship based in Buxton & Glossop - now Audi Links of Macclesfield. .

Links in Fairfield.

Grrrrrrrrr :snipersmile: vultures! :) Dead before pronouced dead. Have you no sense of preservation? (And that applies to any poorly Corrado! - It is a limited supply item.) The issue here is whether it should be written off. All too convenient for the insurance to hand cash out. A Storm has just been repaired like this in Buxton with £4,500 worth of repairs by an insurance company (June/July 2005). I know the car and it is a genuine one but putting that into writing is the only way with the insurance. The sales invoice should be sufficient as it's proof in writing but Volkswagen Customer Services should be requested to put a short letter together based on the chassis number that they ordered it as a Storm. I've answered this mornings email for you Gina. Telephone number is in it for you for Volkswagen. Don't accept that settlement price, it is too low ie., it's trade value. There's an argument that says it is worth repairing. About 7 years ago I gave the insurance assessor 4 options when they did this to me. 1. You write it off - No way 2. You repair it - Acceptable to me 3. You and I come to some compromise on the repair costs - Well I'll do this if I have no other option but 1. 4. Keep your hands off it, sorry to have wasted your time - Grit your teeth and hope it's not the option that finalises. The result was the car was repaired and fully paid for by the insurance AND I am still driving around in it today :) . At the time the car was value was about £3,000 at most. Repair bill, £2,750. Bottom line to the above is what are the costs of repair -v- value -v- wanting the car now it's damaged. .

A brief sampler is on the beginning of the Storm to Wolfsburg clip. Geeee, this is going back aka 1991 - 1992. No! I haven't (or at least I couldn't find it tonight.) .