RW1

It's blue actually in true corporate colour! Right off for my pizza - priorities! Back 23:30 In the meantime, answers on a postcard to the usual address. _lean_ "I cant remmeber where they are meant for" I take it the old grey cells are skyward. I'll see what i can do, its two piccies. .

What you need to buy is a stainless steel bolt (for the high temps), the same thread and diameter as the lambda probe you have. The bolt may be too long and should be cut/sawn to have the same length as the thread body part on the probe. Ie. not the probe length as well. This because the probe is narrower than the threaded area and unless you can check down the hole, as there may be an interference. Torque seems to be about 50Nm (36 ft lb). Obtain the bolt from a proper tool shop/hardware shop (few & far between these days). Can't say I've seen probe sized ones in B&Q. .

Rixy, It looks like the common factor to the problem is fuse/relay panel plug “G2” is completely disconnected. It would also explain the rough running as the MAF besides the Air Temp, Coolant temp, bearing oil pressure & oil temp all pass through this plug and they are disconnected. The plug “G2” is a white one, 4th from the driver’s door on the bottom row with the fuse relay panel fitted as normal in the Corrado under the dash. So the plugs go red, red, red, white. This white one is out .

ETKA does recognise them. I see I have several apprentices! The bolt/screw are common to sorting out the lower thin support bracket to the G-Charger and the chunky steering pump upper mounting bracket. I'll have a pizza before I come back later.... .

OK, had to put two SORNs in today. Reading the back page, quote section 3 …… You can relicense the vehicle using this form (SORN – Form V11 [tax reminder renewal]) if: The vehicle keeper’s name is correctly printed on the form. You wish the license to run from the date shown. The taxation class is still correct for your use of the vehicle The details shown for the vehicle itself are correct If any of the above details have changed you must relicense the vehicle using form V10 and your V5 (logbook)……. So, two views here are OK. But to answer Dub_nut_G60's original query, it’s a V10 plus V5 with MoT, insurance and license fee. This because point two above has a break in continuous road tax by it being on a SORN. It’s no hassle. The V10 is just a short form of about 10 details, all easy. But also the other view is correct in that you can use the V11 – SORN reminder (with MoT, insurance & tax fee) providing it’s an renewal of the road tax disc and there has been no break in the road tax. ie. SORN’d or tax has lapsed (that will need explaining as it should have been SORN’d). .

The oil pressure circuit wires do route through the fuse/relay panel.

Reminds me of a dophin somehow....... :) Particularly the first front quarter photo. Interesting curved split line of the two colours. .

Have you been in the engine bay down by the oil filter by any chance. One oil pressure switch works on cylinder head pressure and if disconnected makes no difference except the warning is disabled. The other works on the big ends pressure and if disconnected will sound the buzzer and put the LED on after 20 seconds and revs getting above 2,000 rpm as the dash instrument panel samples the signal. This may be the one that is disconnected (by accident??). Both pressure switches are on top of the oil filter housing, single wires to each. .

Kjet runs a bit lean during acceleration and is best set like this. Set too lean to below it has mild flat spots which make you put you foot down more compunding the situation. 8V & 16v have it. 8v's (DX & EV) fit a vacuum driven warm-up regulator to put things right. 16v (KR) has vacuum regulator so running with higher CO % helps but they are still a little flat. MPG is isn't noticeable but because you enjoy it more, your foot goes down more and that's where the mpg changes downward. .

£100. Thats not a bad deal BB and a lot less than the fines. Towing may be as bad as driving it. Shady area that as it's on the road. .

Providing you avoid the triple lined up Tax Cameras on the m-ways! .

Oh. May be it's changed since 30th April this year when I did it last to get a tax disc on a SORN'd car. Did take the whole lot down to the PO you mention. Maybe the counter staff didn't know what they are doing. Got the tax disc though! No worries, not doing again until next year. Procedures will no doubt change again!! ..

Henny, I think Lands End distances may just raise an eyebrow or two. :) Upto 10 miles. Point being why 100 miles when there may be several MoT Test Stations were on the way. "u see it was like this m'lord, my treasured baby I give only the best and.... ". And yes, an obviously unsafe car on the road would be an issue as sensibility comes into it that it should have been transported (not towed). Corrado's might be sound vehicles still but could you find it acceptable with a rusty old Ford Transit with dodgy steering, leaking fuel, smoking like hell and no brakes in front of you on the road. Ermmmm........... Anyway BB, why 100 miles? .

Just go to the Post Office or DVLA office and use a form V10. They keep them on the shelf. If you need to MoT it you can drive the car to & from the test station providing you have a formal appointment arranged beforehand. And also as usual valid car insurance has to be presented at the counter along with the MoT. And of course, money to pay for it. May be wise to take the logbook as well given it's not a renewal notice of an existing tax disc. Simple as that. .

OK by me. It will be part of a bigger light circuit PDF if I can get round to finishing the file. .

Yes they are supposed to be better. I'd check the rear brake hose on the torsion arm behind the wheel. When the collapse inside the brake pressure cannot easily decrease quickly after a brake application. So the pads stick on. Easy to check before ripping it all apart. With the car on the ground, open the calipers bleed nipple. Brake fluid should flow out, very slowly under gravity, almost a weep. Do this when the car hasn't been used for a few hours - 8 to 10 say to allow any residual pressures to back feed. If no weeping flow, press the brake pedal as though you are bleeding the brakes and close the nipple before releasing the pedal. Now open the nipple again, if still no weeping flow, start looking at the hose as the possible problem. If you find one like this the other side won't be far behind, so do both. The rubber brake hose may be almost totally collapsed internally. No outward sign usually but the outer hose rubber surface may be "wet" like condensation. .

You might thinks that but I've a before and after set of photos of a Mk3 Goof cocked up on a road verge. Oh dear, one charred lump after 5 minutes with the owner asking what caused this. .

Joeblogssvr69. That looks like the hatch is not aligned, not the lights. Need to wind in the two rubber stops and see how it sits. Still high? Then adjust the square looking boot catch to sit further down in the rear panel on the opposite side to the central VW badge on the outside (Need to use an impact drive to undo / tighten the two philipd screw head type bolts. When sitting right. Then adjust outwards the two rubber stops on the hatch to kill the vibration rattle of the lock & square catch. .

I don't think it's a "heatsheild" but more a skid sheild to stop the cat internals fracturing if the cat outer metal body is hit. The sheild takes the bang/hit and there is a enough air space to protect the cat itself. Quite a common for one or both of the rear attachment point arms to crack. Usual trick is a big jubilee clip to stop the rattle. .

Supercharged, if the rubber stops were "high" on the hatch outer area's the boot wouldn't lock I think or would be very, very hard to get it to lock as the hatches's catch mechanism wouldn't reach to close the lockfinger home. Need a side profile shot in line with the rear lamp face to see the body lines alignment. I did wonder whether the boot catch on the back panel had slipped upwards. It's hard in that shot to make out whether the body lines are correct. The hatch and rear body appear OK suggesting the inner lamps aren't seated fully home. .

Pity there isn't a forum called electrical ( & maybe also a diagnostics one)??? Yeah! Use PM!. .

. Oh dear not another one. Sorree to hear this. It doesn’t help that the later headlight switches only last about 750 to 1,000 hours (about 3 to 4 years driving) in use before failing due to internal heat generated by the small the two small 1.2 watt lamps. I’m surprised this whole affair hasn’t been sorted as this has been occurring since the mid 1990’s and until recently I didn’t understand the mechanism that caused the failure and why the earth wire fries so badly. It borders on the line of a recall as in the extreme this could get ugly and cause a fire inside the dash. Read on…….. Right first things first. The whole set of wires in this loom are not protected by fuses. So be careful with what you are doing with the battery still connected. **** I would highly recommend that you disconnect the battery as soon as you have read this post. And leave it that way until the loom is repaired or replaced. ****** The earth wire you mention will have been shot from END TO END as you have found and is now possibly other loom wires carrying un-fused 12 volts are bare copper metal wires on bodywork inside the dash where you cannot get at it quickly!! There are no fuses to protect this part of the loom and it could badly short itself. (Hence why the lights work and don’t work when the fuse/relay panel is moved.) Nothing to do with the switch now as the damage has been done along the whole length of the loom. This can now lead to further shorting and the headlight switch, which could have started it, will continue to contribute to more damage by heating up the brown earth wire. ================ Understand the circuit in the loom first. The THIN earth wire (brown) is there in the loom only to provide an earth return for the little switch lamp that lights the lamp symbol on the rocking switch cover when the ignition is switched on. The sidelights, headlights and the sidelights ON warning illuminated ring on the rocking cover do not use this earth wire. That's why the brown wire is only a thin one. This loom carries ALL the lighting 12 volts power wires for the lights except for the foglights which operate on a different loom using a fuse box relay. The two thick wires in the loom red and black/yellow carry the 12 volts from the battery and ignition respectively. Unfortunately, the switch can short out the battery volts (sidelights) or ignition volts (headlights) due to being partly broken but still working or if new replacement - faulty in manufacture. Faulty in manufacture is that one of the mini lamp's soldering points inside the switch is right next to the earth contact and can be bridged by poor soldering and therefore 12 volts is shorted directly to earth! This applies to all headlight switches, old style or new. There are electrical checks later on to spot this before fitting a switch. When one of the two plastic arm levers breaks inside the switch, which operates the sliding switch contacts plate, then this puts the slide plate into a skewed sliding position, which allows the switch to make a short possible between 12 volts and earth. The two 12 volts supply wires are heavy duty (to supply the lights) and so can carry a fair few amps but the earth wire that now becomes the shorted return can carry very little. So the earth wire rapidly heats up like a giant fuse and the insulation melts as can be seen – end to end. It only takes about 3 to 4 seconds to do the damage shown!! SO PUTTING SCREW DRIVER IN TO OPERATE THE SWITCH OR FORCING THE SWITCH COVER TO AN EXTREME “ON” POSITION IN A PARTLY BROKEN STATE (ie. one of the rocker cover internal levers has broken) CAN CAUSE AN UNFUSED SHORT TO EARTH!!!! ================== The loom is about 3 feet long and goes from the dash facia headlight switch location over a bodywork bare METAL frame and then directly down to the middle blue connector in the middle of the fuse/relay panel top row of connectors on the backside. The loom is clipped in a couple of places along the way. Easy to get out once the underdash panels/shelves are out and the fuse/relay panel is out and hanging loose. ================== The main reason for disconnecting the battery is that in melting the earth wire in the loom, it may have melted the other loom wires (12 volts) and if these are now bare at the bare METAL frame, a very big unprotected short can occur powered by the battery or ignition circuits. It is not advisable to drive the car any longer until the loom is FULLY REPAIRED & INSPECTED or REPLACED. (For the later dash style the loom is 535 971 055B, but for late 1994/5 cars it will need a further minor mod to the dim-dip connection (yellow wire) to bring it upto the 535 971 055G latest standard [which can't be ordered at VW], early dashes it is 535 971 055). ================ Checking a replacement headlight switch before fitting:- With a meter on resistance setting, place one of the meter probes on the pin marked 31. Now in all three switch positions (off – sidelights – headlight), go round ALL the other pins. All should be open circuit with one exception relative to pin 31. If the switch has the original filament small bulbs fitted then pin 31 to pin X will show 16 ohms +/-3 ohms (unless it’s blown). If LEDs have been fitted, then on the ordinary Ohm settings on the meter (not diode test), it should be open circuit. If no direct short is detected in the any of the above tests, the headlight switch is safe to fit to the headlight loom in the dash. ================ A further protection precaution:- A further precaution during loom repair is to fit a 3 amp blade fuse like the rest of the Corrado’s fuses in an in-line fuse holder in the earth wire (see photo) to protect the earth wire in the event of the switch internally shorting and the messy consequences. The actual current for the small internal switch bulb powered by the ignition is 80mA, so any type (such as glass cartridge filament & holder) of fuse about 0.5 to 1.0 amp is adequate to stop the earth wire being fried. If it blows, the little ignition power lamp symbol on the switch will stop working but the sidelights & headlights will not. If the fuse blows, do not refit a fuse until the switch has been checked out as there has been a short inside the switch, either permanently or momentarily which needs to be corrected. This mod should be done, even if the present switch is working OK due to the unreliability of the headlight switches. ---------------- Rixy, From above, the dicky lights are not using the brown earth wire. So even if it’s a bad repair, the lights will still work but the little ignition driven bulb symbol on the switch cover won’t be working. Either the blue plug is not fully home & locked in it’s fuse/relay panel socket or another loom wire is damaged. You need to inspect the loom off the car visually and line out each wire including some bending motion to represent the fuse/relay panel being tilted. There are no relays on the panel associated with the headlights themselves. It’s all directly wired. PM me about a repair to the loom if required. .

I would suspect the dip/beam switch in the steering column stork. The headight switch doesn't change when the beam or dip is selected. The other is if a headlight loom is fitted........ relays / loom wiring. .

Depends on the colour. Suits darker colours but whites & reds and other bright colours - naaaa, I'd prefer satin black original. Did three at a body shop a while back. Reckon costs today - £65 to £80 each - all same colour. One off may be higher so Rodders price won't be short of the mark. One of the ones I did has been on the car for 7 years and is still perfect. Don't use ordinary paint, that's why it flakes. Acrylic paint doesn't flex unless it has a plasticiser added to make it stretch as the grille plastic expands & contracts with heat. Body shop will know to do that. same with bumpers. If you DO do it, then make sure the bodyshop knows the grille plastic is quite soft even on a low bake and shouldn't be cured at too high a temperature. Mine melted slightly around the top securing clips but was able to bend back with a hair dryer. Thats how soft the plastic is. .

Ahhhh...... The word is "assembled" at Karmann! But made, ie. the steel was pressed, the glass was floated, the tyres were molded....... Look under the airbox (RHD) on the panel it sits on, the sub chassis box to the bumper hanger inner wing strengthener. What's stamped on it....... ----> "Made in Mexico". . :wink: . This is where this myth started. .