RW1

Or unplug the single yellow wire in the headlight loom under the dash at the back of the fuse box. .

Also, I use waxoyl. It's fine and does the job but once on, it needs to be reapplied about every two or three years as it dries out like mud and falls off. It's OK on inside cavities but wheel arches and underside, regular application as above is required. In hard hit areas I use a product call Supertrol 001 which seals well and remains adhered wet continuously hit by water spray such as the wheel arches or front wish bones. It's a bit like oily grease, never really sets over the years. Not at Halfords but some motor factors. http://www.frogwell.com/rangerover/page03.html as an example. .

Headlight loom or not? Check fuses as a first step in both the loom and the fuse/relay panel. Check relays in the headlight loom if one is fitted. ...

It was clear, I wasn't reading this morning as the C/H boiler departed on Friday night and by this morning my brain was frozen. Now struggling with the pin removal from the plugs. Have the VW wire repair kit box and it say use this tool and push back. Simple - yeah, fingers are num 5 hours later. The first pin did it as instructed inside 30 seconds. The rest......... .

If it's "whining" that may be a sign the battery is wanting charge all the time. (I presume it's not a mechanical sound like a bearing) How olds the battery. That may be on it's last legs and not retaining keeping charge too well. The alternator will whine after the engine is started but go quiet once the battery is back up to working charge levels. Usually a couple of minutes. Alternators tend to be exchange items these days unless you want to pull it apart and use another one to make good one out of two. Small internal parts are available for some but other's they are not. If it's the VR6, then exchange will be your route. .

Thanks, Just spotted the lock you are refering to. I thought you were referring to the connectors lock tab. Cheers It's out now. One fried headlight loom to repair and fit an in-line fuse modification to prevent this happening again with those darn UK dim-dip headlight switches! .

Cheers Supercharged. I've already got the lock lever end free. It's the other end that proving extremely stubborn and not budging at all. .

What's the technique for removing an awkward connector on the back of the fuse/replay panel. It's one in the middle of the top row. Can get the clip end partly out and past it's stops, the other slot guide end doesn't want to budge so the plug just tilts in the socket. I know they are barstewards at the best of times but this one has got the better of me. Its a 12 way connection plug. There are no heavy duty connector pins at the stuck end, just lightweight ones. Tried WD40, no use. .

See what they find. Maybe worth asking your local VAG dealers where they send ECUs for repair. May be cheaper than a replacement unless you get hold of a scrappie car's ECU. I'm not convinced the ipod caused it or disconnecting the positive. You are not the first in the world to have something in the power socket or disconnecting the positive first. .

Dealer item but you try GPC to see it they will source. Wet carpet, I look at the door and the inner membrane. If not obvious, make sure the speaker polythene cone where the wire are points downwards into the door bottom. Check the rest of the membrane is in good condition. If the outer window seal is in poor condition, this will allow more water in than normal and if may be getting in somewhere. The seal does weep water past but not a leak. The roof is welded under the roof seals but that is very rare in failing. Certainly wouldn't expect a 1995 C to have problems. New window screen recently??? May not have been sealed fully. It's a matter of observation and checks. .

I think the main difference in early and late is that the early Corrado has sport/normal shift control where as the later ones adapt as you go to you driving. That will change wiring into the ECU. There are three standards: 1988 - 1990 1991 - 1994 Oct 1994 - 1995 May be wise to get hold of the correct ECU for the relevant year. A variant for the period should be an alternative (ie. the letter codes at the end of the part number) but mixing say a 1989 into a 1995 may have problems etc. The Golf suggestion would also have to follow these rules of car v year. .

Hmmmm. Should always disconnect the earth -ve. It's good practice to take off the negative first when isolating the battery and reconnecting it last if the positive is removed. The main reason is because first reason is that your spanner on touching the car's body will not spark etc. Once the earth is off, the positive if the spanner touches anything won't spark 12 volts as with the earth side gone (isloated) there is no possible circuit. Secondly, taking the positive of first can cause a voltage spike on disconnection if it is not cleanly done and this will be across the car's electronics because the earth is still connected. It could be that the ipod has reversed current flow through the ECU. Only small current is sometime necessary to damage electronic circuits through circuit reversal. This occurs in the VW Digifant fitted cars if an earth in the engine bay is left off and the reverse current fries the ECU. Or as I wrote, you've been very unlucky with disconnecting the positive terminal. .

Its 535 947 559 from the dealers but it will go on order to Germany possibly - 4 to 5 days. .

Given the number of times peeps have done this, you've either been unlucky for some reason with the ECU or there is something else disturbed when you did the procedure. Have a think what you did on the day, mainly how and what was done while disconnecting the battery. Anything else. The drive should have had little impact on the electronics and given the probe is not the problem, it's what went on while loosing the ECU memory. How did you disconnect/reconnect the power, which battery terminal first and so on and what else did you do while in the engine bay at the time and elsewhere before driving off? .

A quick one. The ribbed area widths are about the same as the flat surface running area on the tension pulley wheel. The belt should sit on the alt pulley as a match - rib for rib. Can't do the "far out" bit for you as the car isn't with me.

Possibly the internal rubber tube has collapsed inside the rubber brake hose on the back trailing axle arm if you have originals fitted. If it was already restricted and now blocked except under extreme foot brake pedal pressure, all the air may not have been cleared. No real way to check externally but they usually show signs of sweating fluid (like condensation) when they have split internally or the ball shaped bulges in the outer rubber protection. If so, replace both axles as the other will follow soon. Nothing special in bleeding the brakes. You appear to have done it OK. And a pressure bleeder technique should clear & fill the caliper normally. Min mark is of no consequence. Lower would affect the clutch possibly.

No pollen filter on UK standard C. Could be retro fitted at the time with Mk2 Golf filter housing (now unavailable). If there is a filter, the most likely place is in the passenger side scuttle area above the air fan for the cabin. If a heater isn't used for a while it can cause smells but they should "burn off" after a short while (30 minutes) whne they engine has reached normal water temperature. Are you sure it's the heater and not a damp carpet up the front end of the car in the forward footwells? .

1995 C's are wired slightly differently. Mine is the same with fuse 14 pulled. The wire diference is another additional pin on the controller is used with the window switches. -------------- wcrado, glad you got sorted. Be interested to know wire colours are on your rdriver's door pin switch sometime? .

Three speed VR6 fan works on four separate sensors. One is dual in the radiator for 95’C & 105’C – see detail below. The third stage is controlled from the outer position towards the battery in the thermostat housing. Sensor is black with green ring. It’s rated at 112’C. Run-on fan & auxiliary electric pump use the yellow temp sensor in the thermostat housing on the furthest offside position. The cooling temps switching are …… Stage 1 – ON 92’C – 97’C OFF 84’C – 91’C Stage 2 – ON 99’C – 105’C OFF 91’C – 98’C Stage 3 – Specified as 112’C Fan Run-On – ON 101’C – 107’C OFF 94’C – 100’C ------------- (Corrado VR6 1992 - 1994 only) As the stages 1 & 2 rad fan are coming on with the Fan Run-On circuit, the fan controller to fan motor wiring and fan are working and that part of the circuit can be assumed to OK. The 1st stage not coming on may be the rad switch and you should check for 12 volts on the input side (red wire) and 12 volts on the output side (red/white stripe wire) when the switch is supposed to be on. The fan controller is not controlling this circuit, it’s a direct wired circuit to the fan motor. There is a splice in the red/white stripe wire so if the output from the rad stage 1 is switch on, it should appear at the fan controller pin 3 and the rad fan pin 2. Rad fan pin 2 is deriving it’s power from the rad thermo-switch. The connection into the fan controller is the same thickness but has no influence on the fan stage 1 working. The thickness of the wire at the fan controller is misleading as this is not the fan’s stage 1 derived 12 volts supply path. I would doubt if the red/black stripe wire splice in the wire from the rad switch to fan controller has open circuited. I would look at the rad switch itself and both the rad switch connector and the fan controller plug connections for damage. The splice is inside the black taped loom. All it is doing is changing the wire size, 1995 Corrados use the thinner wire all the way from the fan, no splice. The 3rd stage fan I doubt is rated for continuous running. It is drawing about 40 amps which the cabling is designed only to transfer power for short periods due to it getting warm. The fan motor is also likely to have a rating on it for continuous running due to internal heating. This stage cooling is on the car to cope with coming to a halt after a prolonged high speed drive (ie 120mph type pace on German Autobans on a hot summer’s day) where the engine has heat soaked and there is a need to dump heat rapidly for a few minutes until stage 2 fan can take over. In the 1992 – 94 Corrado’s the electrical circuit is definitely under rated for continuous running of the fan. Continuous usage could result in a loom fire in the back left side of the engine bay, ie a hot engine on a hot day. A better method would be to fit an extra oil cooler and an additional switch/relay enabled fan in front of the radiator behind the grille. Or run the fan on stage 2 manually (Fan motor and wire ratings will handle this) by switching in 12 volts on the thin red/black stripe wire from the rad thermo-switch at the fan controller end on the nearside plug with the thin wires. This would be neutral to the rad therm-switch stage 2 kicking in and would therefore not create any backfeeds in the circuit. Interestingly, although the same fan controller is used on a 1995 Corrado, it’s circuit has been revised and more fuses introduced or uprated. That’s a definite sign that the 1992 – 94 circuit has problems under extreme conditions specified for the car. .

Had a more detailed look at this. Both door switches do play a part in the circuit. It works like this on all three circuit versions fitted to the Corrados ….. After the ignition is turned off, the windows will still operate providing that BOTH doors STAY SHUT. Both driver and passenger side switches will continue to operate the windows up/down. If however either door is opened, then the controller stops the windows working immediately. The controller senses this through a quite thin brown/white stripe wire on the door switch. Also on the other door contact is the thicker brown/white stripe wire, which is the interior light. Therefore both door switches should have TWO brown/white stripe wires attached on separate contacts to earth. The fault you all have is either of the following….. The door pin switch is highly resistive/dirty so the window controller is not seeing a direct earth when the door is opened. In this case clean up both point contacts (especially the thin brown/white stripe wire contact). Or The thin brown/white stripe wire has become detached from the door contact switch and is dangling inside the door pillar cavity. Have a search inside there through the square hole (retrieve it using a large paper clip made straight and a hook at the end). Both brown/white stripe wires on the driver’s side (similar on the passenger side - may not be the case with pre 1990 Corrados, drivers door only on these) can be found going into the cavity near the top corner of the fuse/relay panel. The door gaiter for the door’s wiring traps them as they pass into the cavity. Either of these conditions will let the both windows continue to operate with the driver’s door open (and like wise with the passenger door if that’s got either fault above) which would explain why opening the passenger door stops the windows operating as this switch is working normally. Door pin switch part number is 165 947 563. It must have two spade connections. Best replaced from experience cos once they give trouble, they are difficult to get fully clean and give good contact. The problem generally soon returns and it’s not worth the hassle at about £3. ---------------- There is no relay on the fuse/relay panel. The window controller box does it all. .

Brake/Side light is double filament 21/5w bulb. Indicators, rear fog & reverse are single filament 21 watt bulbs. Use the outside to work which then goes where.

OK guys, No loom fault, not a design feature, yes different fuses - there are three circuit standards covering C/L & Windows jointly. 1988 & 89 - Fuse 43 (20amp) above the fuse/relay panel. 1990 - 94 - Fuse 14 (10 amps), 16 (10 Amps) & 52 (20 amps above the relay panel) 1995 Fuse 4 (15 amps), 14 (10amps) & 52 (20 amps above the relay panel) If fuse 14 goes, there is still power on the window lifter relay control box. I can see no reason why the door open has this effect but one cause is back feeding the circuit ie. the window switch is acting as an earth rather than providing control power. The door switches and window lifter motors all directly hang off the controller so what ever condition you are creating by pulling fuse 14 is happening inside the window controller box. Fuse 52 kills the remaining power on the windows. This is also shared by the C/L pump which also uses fuse 16 (1990 - 1994 C's) or 4 (for 1995 C’s). ..

G60 is best used with OEM filter changed out every 10,000 miles. Tests show that by that stage the filter is past it. Some of the "other" filters are not as good and it's important not to let the dust in onto the G60 vanes. .

Yes about sums it up.. Value range on an "good" car. Typically it's about 0.98 in value +/-0.03. View measuring block on Group 006, field 1. Field 2, 3 & 4 are ECU map offsets so ignore these values in your checks and they may have been disturbed by the wildly changing probe values. If probe is changed, then the full ECU set-up procedure will need to be performed after the probe is replaced. Could also be necessary considering the miss-readings affecting the ECU offset values. .

Yellow wire is one of the signal wires into the ECU. ECU plug pin 42. At the plug break in the lower engine bay it's pin 3. They've probably disturbed it! While doing the exhaust. Grrrr... clumbsy. .