RW1

None, it's all in the ECU programming. I think you've answered your Q. Sort these and then tackle if the problem persists. .

Nope. BKUR7ET is correct but BCP7ET won't make much difference as it's the correct temperature range. The plug looks slightly lean but not that much. You could have a engine temperature sensor out. Lambda probe working OK? You will need to hook diagnostics up and look to see if there are any faults and also if the probe is working correctly. 9A is a bandit of an engine ECU to access but possible. An opto-isolator interface doesn't usually work, it needs to be electrically isolated and the if using VAG-COM it needs to be v409.0 or later. First interrogation baud rate needs to be set to 4,800 otherwise the ECU chokes (stops communicating) necessitating the ignition to turned off & on. Cam belt been changed lately? .

A couple of things to consider....... 1) The rear edge on the bonnet will gather grit if the cover is left on. 2) No matter how taught, some vibration (flapping) will happen at higher speeds Leading to paint damage........... This is the stuff they use in a lot of cases on VW's where chaffing is likely to occur like where the spoiler rubber feet rest on the rear hatch. A very high specification self-adhesive transparent Polyurethane film manufactured by world leader 3M. http://www.nfauto.co.uk/stone_protection_film.htm .

This only works for post 1990 C's onwards. The switch for this is in the lock barrel itself separate from the ignition switch. Early C's 1988 - 90 have no switch 12volts on the radio power plug, just battery 12 volts (perminant). Passat ignition switch is used on all C's. 357 905 865, the key barrel changes which brings in the 5th (radio power) switch "S". .

Oil is already discussed, search. Summer 15w40, winter 10w40. 16v oil filter is free er flowing than the 8v but for normal driving, the difference is little. .

0/10 10640 - 6653 = only 3987 more lines to do. Please try harder. :wink:

No. The colour wasn't available until 1994 models ie. August 1993 Onwards. 10/10 BC :)

I don't think it's quite that simple. You'll need to lift the drive shafts and hubs from the 6 speed donor. Same for a standard VR6 5 speeder as well.

They are a coarse screw in/out affair.

Tappets quite sensitive to dirty oil sometimes in a higher mileage engines because so much "dirt" gets into the oil unlike a new/low mileage engine. Use oil flush additive at the next oil change (not flushing oil!), drive a few miles rather than stand it idling as per the instructions and just change the oil following that. .

Used as written on the box. Hand hurt afterwards though. Impressed with the result.

2.0 ltrs should be enough for a coolant 40%/60% water mix.

It is most likely the pump only will leak initially when the engine is hot or has been stopped after running so the heat is in the top half of the engine resulting in an increase in the cooling systems pressure, just enough to push out the coolant, probably past the shaft gland/seal.

21 Watts, single filament

No reason why you couldn't put it isn to 2nd gear by hand at the gearbox, de-clutch on engine start and then just drive it slowly away using the clutch and brakes as normal. You will just have to sit with your foot on the clutch pedal at junctions etc until home. Don't touch the gear stick at any time while doing this drive. Not got the parts files with me, but I think this may require a new cable assembly. Don't remember seeing the end fitting separate.

If fitted, it's on top of the M.C. furthest forward in the car.

It's on the middle back of the engine under the back engine cover between the secondary water pump on the nearside corner back and the throttle body on the off-side. Thick stubbly thing with two rubber air hoses and one electrical connection.

Oooops, noticed '95 should have been '94 for the split.

021 906 256A upto Oct'94, 256E after that to end of production.

CHeers dazzyvr6, what a star! Gavin, Thanks for the tip. Did know. Just helping out a friend with a problem and the car has one of these. Chris

Anyone have a copy they could scan of the 5021T's wiring loom installation diagram/installation instructions of the alarm/immobiliser?

Look at this thread: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... c&start=30 This axtract is relevant. All down to pressure differences and weight to get the front / rear balance right. "Watch the Bentley, its the Teves 02 system. Different, principle is the same but illustrations are different due to design diferences. Full tank of petrol, spare wheel on board and jack (Weight in vehicle). Make sure brakes are fully bled of air. Bouce the car a few times. Pressure gauges on calipers. Apply brake pedal to measure 50 bar on front caliper gauge, back should be 27 - 33 bar. Again but front to 100 bar, back should be 48 to 54 bar. 2 gauges, one circuit at a time. ie. front right/rear left, front left, rear right, order not important but good balance between sides is. It won't balance for the axle, then look at rubber brake hoses, may have internal collapse walls, usually spottable on visual due to bulges or sweating brake fluid on surface. Adjust the pressure regulator to get these figures. Measuring a mechanical datum won't get these figures as it's pressure balance that matters and you don't know what your mechanical datum is in the first instance." .

Grade for this time of the year should be 15w40. Choice? Synta Silver but that is 10w40 but it will get you by. Castrol Magnatec 15w40 will keep the tappets quieter. Never a fan of Shell after a blocked oil cooler due to tarred oil deposits. Don't be pursuaded to use 5w40, 0w40 or 0w30 as the engine wasn't designed for these grades. Others with have brand favourites to add soon. .

No, there's too much curve in the spokes to be any of the VW Audi multi spoke wheel styles.

1.8ltr G60 Conventional brake bleeding only required.