junkie

Yes you can run components and a sub from the amp. You should bridge channels 3 &4 to the sub, this means you run negative from either channel 3 or 4 and positive from either 3 or 4. Or possibly if using a dual voice coil sub you may be able to use both plus and neg from both 3 & 4. But then you can also wire a dual voice coil with the 1st scenario and link plus on one coil to neg on other. Keeping up so far? But if going dual voice coil you need the lower ohm voice coils so the amp sees the correct ohm loading so as to not overload the amp of going single voice coil then you need the 4 ohm, I think the jl sub single coil is 3 ohm or something round there. Reason for dual is more power handling for that sub, double the power and double the output but bass is about moving air so it's not like having 2 subs. It may also give better control of the sub so should in theory "sound" better. £300 will get a decent jl w3 and sealed box and I would go for a 10" dual voice coil personally for more punch and tighter faster bass response as opposed to lower frequency response due to the electronic music I listen to I had the 12 jl but ran off a 1000.1 Phoenix gold amp with bass cube and people couldn't believe I only had a single twelve in the boot, click my sig link for pics of it. Good luck lol.

Berylium is mega expensive

Cheers mate just too pricey at the moment for us. We have hopefully found another and 3 door this time in black nice wheels needs a few bits doing but nothing too detrimental to the car hopefully again collecting this wknd. Fingers crossed.

Well the guy shafted me over and sold it before I got there. Search carries on then.

Ok so everybody seems to use or wants posts today or something, I never used that. I always look through the forums to the threads I know I posted in and then click the read last post blue thingy to jump to where I left off at in that thread. Why is that symbol there sometimes and others not. I'm guessing if I come on the forum it's there but when I leave even if I don't read all threads or all new posts in threads it resets them all so if I come back in 10 min the forum thinks I have read everything. So now I have to manually scroll through pages of stuff to find where I was upto.

Cool, not looking for mega gains just the whole drivability tweaks. Already thought about the suspension etc as I assume it's all TT stuff been VAG mk4 platform. Going to keep it looking standard and eventually turbo it for the sleeper look lol. What's the induction and exhausts that's best used on these.

Pretty much all set to buy a golf 4mo at the weekend 5 door all standard but high miles. How much difference or similarities will there be compared to the TT we had previously. Without super charging or turbo what's the best route for a good tweak

That's brill now andi, I don't mind mobile sites sometimes it's just when it won't go back to the full site that's the bug bear.

I mainly use the iPhone for the forum , just come on and the site has been mobiled, I click full site at the bottom and it's just keeping me on the mobile version and it's doing my nut in. Please help it's driving me mad!

Whats going on with the threads been missing?

Oh and those wind deflectors are seriously ruining a good side profile

Sweet. Looks a nice rim against the blue. What tyres you got on them? Emissions all spot on I take it. I failed miserably but that was due to the manifold cracked and the management not seeing all the exhaust gases and compensating by adding shed loads of fuel.

Off topic but in topic to mic vr how much you looking for mincy?

Do it.

It's upto you but ultimately the electronic control type are only as good as the solenoid used so if it's cheap it's usually cheap for a reason. I only suggest it as it's cheaper, easier to fit and been mechanical it should be more reliable.

The Dawes device will increase boost but it will also help it hit the target pressure sooner by keeping the wastegate shut unlike a bleed valve which will always allow a little pressure to bleed through to the actuator which will open the wastegate slightly and then it should also help hold the boost for as long as possible. The electronic does the same but you can't get round the turbo limitations of boost dropping and it's not a case of holding the boost all the way through, sometimes there is no more benefit to be had and all it's doing is creating more heat from the turbo compression and killing more power and over stressing the turbo.

You be surprised how much headroom there is in a tt. Loved mine but baby forced sale. Loads of front room just zero in back.

Try fitting a Dawes device

Oh and cos it's a large port head it's going to take more filling with air ain't it so that may lower boost pressure seen maybe. Still flowing the same amount of air just looks less

At best driving like miss daisy your prob gonna see 30mpg as well so giving it some it's more like 15-20mpg. £10 of fuel ain't really alot nowadays is it let's be honest.

You can fit the forge the wrong way. The way the original is piped you pipe the forge the opposite way. Not saying it's the cause of problems like. It will def not hold that boost I doubt all the way and turbos don't def achieve the same boost at the same rpm all the time in each gear. All depends how it's driven, how quick you rev it and how small large the turbo is. Still not saying it's alright like, just your expectations are a little high.

Just normal vw synta oil and change it after 500 miles and after initial warm up and quick drive. Drive using 70% of the rev range and don't keep revs constant, so of on dual carriageway etc you need to keep changing up and down. You can use full throttle but don't go above 70% of revs till 500-100 miles n

All I can recall is the alternator bolts straight to the block and no idea on the belts etc but slim will hopefully help you there.

And click my sig link for piccies

Unfortunately not. James gets 171 at bruntingthorpe with vr gears more power and less weight.