junkie

My impreza came with red stuff all round and it runs Subaru 4 pots (not brembo golds) and they have no bite in them hot or cold which is unnerving as said but they don't fade as of yet.

Ok if you have a 4 channel amp and a mono amp then ditch the crossovers and run an active system, use the 4 channel to power the components 1 channel per speaker and the mono amp to power the sub. That way the sound quality will be much cleaner again due to less crossover interference or something. Yes very recent last week or week before I think.

I would dithering the rear speakers just for the fact it will pull the soundstage backwards and you don't want that as you sit in the front. Invest in some good components upfront like you are but in a larger size like 6 1/4". spend 20% of the cost of your equipment on cabling and install it all properly with sound proofing the doors, well as much of the car as you can, it makes a massive difference as opposed to filling it with as many speakers as you can scenario, then that leaves you to get just 1 amp and run 2 channels upfront and the other 2 bridged for the sub. I can sell you a Phoenix gold line driver if you want it, it takes the signal from your headunit and makes it into the best signal it can that your amp sees, so your amp is doing less and hence getting a cleaner sound. Genesis have def gone under as well.

I got an Arkon air vent mount, had and air vent mount before only a cheap universal job and that was poor compared to this new one I got, extremely secure holding the phone and same in the vent, it just doesn't move at all, swivels too. £13 delivered. I use the co pilot sat nav and it's extremely good, not too much info like some sat navs I have used in the past like turn onto B1698 in 2 mile, just the right amount of info displayed and spoken and fully customisable to your needs and I use it everyday all day for my work and it's never not found my destination in 8 months, couldn't possibly live without it. You can do all the set route type, arrival time, plan various stops as you want them or the best way it thinks. Just have a car charger as 1 journey and the battery is dead, works in both portrait or landscape and you can still use the iPhone to do whatever with background navigation or play music and access all of it. I paid £28 as I was desperate for it and was apprehensive about getting it but as I say I'm so glad I did. Money very well spent and is the single best app I have bought. Traffic is useless on it though I thought it was going to be like Tomtom with auto reroute to avoid congestion but it's not it just says incident on route. Best of all I don't have to hide the satnav in the car as it's in my pocket along with all my cd's and phone. Yes I'm on apple commission.

Still going to need a few fittings for the lines and sort an oil return out. Like I Said I'm not trying to put you off mate. Bet you get to 1500 squids. The remap is for both, to make sure it isn't running lean and to get the best out of it performance wise. It will most likely run ok without a map but it's going to limit the boost and possibly reliability. Which is not what you want obviously. It's not so much my g laser runs say 1 bar of boost so I can run 1 bar on my turbo, each will flow different cfm of compressed air at different rpm's. So there may be lean conditions at certain rpm's if the turbo flows more than the management is expecting to see and can't flow enough fuel.

Oh and exhaust downpipe from turbo to mate onto your exhaust. You will more than likely have to grind off your exhaust support bracket off of your inlet manifold to gain turbo clearance and if your engine mounts are knackered then the engine may rock too much and snap the wastegate actuator arm on the bulkhead or something.

What manifold you using for the turbo?

Prob looking around £300-400 for remap. Oil lines Water lines Fittings to suit Sort out oil return to sump from turbo Your only going to be able to run actuator pressure on the turbo which is say 7psi I think unless you control it by other means which will be mechanical been the cheapest. Bleed valve or can't remember the other name. Fresh oil and filter Turning out to be not so cheP after all and you will need more stuff along the way and the end result will be slightly more power approx 220 bhp and same torque. Still do it though

You can run the turbo straight on the engine without head work or reboring. You will need a dump valve, turbo, exhaust manifold, injectors will be ok, remap to make it work the best it can but may be ok. You will be using a TD04 turbo then off the WRX. I have a classic scooby with that turbo and they will max out at 280bhp on a scooby. Instant power though.

To run mine how it was was mostly necessity except management, it can and was run on dig but the management gave more torque through better boost control built into it. I did run a separate electronic boost control on dig but it was not as good as the built in boost control.

I wil second Marc. No such thing as a budget 8vt. Don't believe me ask corrado_sunderland. Not knocking it or you either just offering advice. Absolutely rricking flying machines that will embarrass alot of cars on the road and can be Torquey as hell.

And stupid looking from the back.

Yep ben watching these and the price has doubled today lol I sold my black leather recaros front and rear seats and door cards with audioscape pods and adjustment loom for £850.

But that's my point the fact I never stood on them and as you say dab them to feel how much traction there is and it would just kick in. For once in my life I will say the 312's must be too powerful lol.

What's the brakes lime with the abs. On the TT if you even thought about touching the brake in the snow it would just kick the abs in and just skid you down the road even though I could have braked it better if it wasn't been too keen.

Suppose it all depends on can you get them delivered to where your posted or do you have to collect from a store somewhere. If you can get them delivered to you then just google on .com I guess instead of .co.uk and get finding some that interest you. Look on vortex as it's American and see what those guys are using etc.

So if it's matching the sat nav at lower speeds what is it doing alot higher up on motorways

I used the seat belt anchor point for a few years with no issues

Have a look at your plugs and the AGU engines are notorious for having shite coil packs so look at that. If it's misfiring it most likely will be holding the boost back and generally feel like you have totally foobared it up, quick part change and it drives like a dream. You running standard ECU or QPE?

So would the new Manila design you want to do be a good choice to make it twin scroll.

Jammu got jok. My dream job what I always wanted to do from been a kid but my deafness put a stop to that. Gutted.

Hope it works but like I said you could have tested it to see if it was faulty before spending.

How about the MAF, not sure but I think the ECU can hold back boost if the MAF is faulty to prevent running lean and killing the engine. Also the N75 may not be leaking but may be foobared or it's possible it's plumbed in wrongly. Also both faults may not show up on a scan check depends how it's failed, that's about as far as my knowledge goes. Try running the turbo on actuator spring pressure, you need to plumb the actuator nipple hose straight onto the turbo compressor housing if it then boost better upto around 0.7 bar then it's the N75 that's faulty and if it's still not right then it will be a actuator issue.

Just have to sell it to me then mate.

Well I left school and went into the car bodyshop, for stupid reasons I left after 3 months and started 4 years of plastering, loved it but hated it at the same time, it just didn't stimulate the brain as much as I need as I get really bored easily. So I moved into mechanical engineering, started out in air conditioning then moved into commercial refrigeration which is for the big supermarkets, been doing it 10 years now and again thinking it's time for a change lol.