junkie

20v g60 it is then.

I will give him 1500 without seeing it and will be looking for the faults to bring the price down more than likely, better to say now as to not offend him whilst I'm there. You have my number get in touch asap, very interested.

Lol's.... You got 69 pm the side of your c chris. If so I passed you on Sunday, you were waiting at the lights in holmfirth. Posing like a right git, if not you then I apologise to whoever it was lol.

Haha awesome news mate. As rob says co break it again, it's the only true way to know your driving it properly. Listen I need to start clearing out my garage so if you want to come up and let me have that test drive sometime you can take some freebies if you want, like the black dash and whatever else you may need. Still not had time to sort out the info yet either, currently working 90 hour weeks.

Just a shame it's not a good looking car like the TT LOL.

No idea but it can't help matters that's for sure. You tried driving it yet once it's cleaned.

Not sure what you have rebuilt but if your only running to 4.5k then the engine needs to loosen up still and surely the best will come from higher up the revs which you have not used yet. Don't bum your self down about it. Let be what is and then get the improvements from the mapping.

Another thing that may help is fitting a mk1 mechanical idle valve.

I was told stuff as much as you can in.

Just get an iPhone

It's easy osh to swap and yep you def did something on the ignition switch. All you need to do if you don't want to swap the ignition switch is take the acc wire from the barrel and put it onto another switched live.

Well of you turn upto a show this will make you a f***ing hero lol. Is your throttle cable fraying in the sleeving as mine felt similar on throttle release lile it was sticking, well it was sticking and holding the revs slightly near idle and eased off as it freed itself but sometimes needing me to physically pull the pedal back with my foot.

Yea I used to as well so all good there. It is a map issue on cold start but as you can imagine it is not easy to get it to be perfect as you get 5 mins each morning to get it right. I was told you need a very small throttle input,what took me ages to figure out was how small an input on the throttle is needed it almost felt like I was not touching the pedal. Once started it will idle around 500-600 rpm but rises naturally within a couple of minutes, if you were giving more throttle initially whilst cranking it would cut out. Standalones are renowned for been poor with cold start, ask kev he will tell you. He has his sorted now but it's took a long while to do and that's with him been able to tweak his ecu all self taught through trial and error. I just got used to starting it and put up with it and changing the plugs a couple times a year. I remember biggerbigben having the same issues with his on the 20v on haltech the plugs would need regular cleaning, it's all just down to the fact that it's mapped by 1 guy who knows his stuff but has not got the millions to spend like OE stuff has had on it.

Just the standard G60 platinums mate. They used to always get cokes up hence why they only lasted 5-10k off memory but only caused an issue at 6k. I put it down to the fact that 1 it's running nearly twice the original power than they were designed for and 2 the cold start could be a pain in the arse taking sometimes several attempts all depending on the ambient temp, if freezing cold in winter it took ages and summer almost always on the 1st turn sometimes second. Once I mastered it the plugs lasted longer. But James has got the ignition adjustment pot on for you which I never had and as far as I'm aware that should now make it start on the turn of the key practically. Before you start it are you letting the fuel pump prime because during that time the ecu is collecting data from the sensors for the cold start, I think from the water temp sensor so it knows how much enrichment to do on cold start/water temp map of I recall correctly. If your key in igntion and cranking Instantly then it's not calibrating and defaulting onto a standard set of rules. When I had the innovate on it would read 11-12 afr on cold start which I think is too rich and coking the plugs if it does not start the 1st or 2nd attempt, and the more attempts it takes the harder it is to start each time until it does and then once started could run quite lumpy until upto temp but once there the afr was a nice healthy Reading but can't remember what now. All this may be totally irrelevant now though as James has changed stuff.

I had a 3 box system and 2.75" bore with 2.5" downpipe. Good luck mate hopefully it will be simple and quick to get sorted, usually always seem bad and turn out to be nothing.

Au so that's the original run graph and not after putting the new plugs in. Just go and get a custom exhaust made mate. Mne cost 350 at blueflame

Very odd looking regardless of power output. Something def a miss obviously. Seems like the fuelings all over for some reason. Can you not get to James or jabba for some investigation or have the garage said a possible cause?

If you haldex it I'm all up for buying it then and all for only another 500 on the current asking price. To pay a garage your looking at easily 4k for the priviledge of doing the conversion.

All I know is it uses a crank position sensor to know when to fire the plugs so I assume it uses that. What's happening with the cluster rpm then, how come it's not working yet?

How about fitting a forge big knob, they are a rather hefty weighty piece and solid much better than momo and also add much needed weight to the stick.

from what I recall it does not show it in gauge format like some do but it will show what the afr, boost, etc all sensors are doing. The other benefits are more load sites, boost control, nos control, traction control and so on.

Oh me me please, I'm not scared of pushing the loud pedal myself I'm just scared when it's not le pushing it lol.

I have the lead but at the moment I can't give it you as my house is upside down decorating hence why I have not sent out all the other bigs of info. I am going to send them but I'm about 3 weeks away I think all been well. I said to James when I dropped the engine off I still had it and he said he has a few so may be worth trying him. Also if you look in the haltech manual it will tell you what lead you need if you want to buy one from pc world or somewhere. There is no software either you just need an older style pc that has DOS. Plug it all in and start up in DOS then follow the instructions in the manual.

Oh and I know it's the right thing to do but can you tell the hormonal pregnant missus it's the right thing please. Sort that one out and you can have my perfect enjoy building a corrado more than driving them corrado for free.

Tempting