junkie

Remember you saying VRT and dont blame you tbh, less on the stretch and more on the power front :D

I just used the rear seat mounting point, got 3 4 gauge earths there and it is 1 hell of a tight fit tbh but never had an issue in 5 years.

Not surprised its sounds rough then dan, mine on the aftermarket management idles from cold around there and sounds like a bag of spanners in the engine, but once warm idles around 900 sounding real good even with the piper 285 cam in and not lumpy and real smooth. Has it always been like that or just since you got it running again, maybe look in the wiki for the ECU reset procedure and see if it relearns to idle properly, clean the plugs as if its been dumping loads of fuel in whilst you have been trying to start it up they could be choked up.

Standard clear mate, you put the right look back into it with the silver wheels so to me it would be a step backwards putting yellow fogs on, keep it all clear and shiny throughout.

Maybe a coilpack or lead issue, possibly plugs and how about the differences between OBD1 and 2

This mean your gonna try and get it back or start on a new 1 then bud?

If you did splash out on the vibratechnics do not go for the competition 1's as they will rattle your teeth out just get the fast road 1's. Forgot which 1 it is now but off a mk2 golf the front mount is a little uprated to the corrado item and will still be factory smooth.

Try this method

Did you custom spec them from Image as well or off the shelf jobbies? I looked into those you have but thought they would not look right but they really do work and dare i say it better the BBS RS's 8)

Do you know what offset your running on the wheels as the front looks perfect, its the look i had in my head how yours is now so i applaude you. I think we will be seeing less of the stretched look next year or so. I remember people in the "VW scene" 3 - 4 years ago slating the "Max brigade" for overwheeling their corsa/saxo etc by putting the 20's on, yet now in our scene people overwheel by going too wide just for the sake of it and then been forced into the stretched tyres, and for the people who stretch for the sake of stretching, come on it looks pants, 165 on 7's etc??? Why i ask myself. Just keep the wheels in proportion to the car it always looks best. Apologies for the rant in your thread :D

Yes i so i turn the boost down, thats the good thing with high power turbos against high power superchargers. Best thing you can do is invest in some good tyres learn to feather in the throttle.

Cheers for the pics of the new wheels, its now made my mind fully up on how it looks on the 8's at least in 16's without stretched tyres, yes they look much better without been stretched, much prefer the Image's to the D90's but that may be down to them not been dark centred as i dont like the dark centre look, we drive a classy car so it needs a classy look wheel wise and you have pulled it off with the wheels.

His were 4 x 100 BBS RS 003's, as far as i know he just used wider dishes to get the girth. They may well be 5 x 120 not sure tbh, but if they are BMW im sure they always used staggered sizes as for the rear wheel drive, so if they are 8's all round they will have been re built to that spec. Nice wheels though i thought of getting them along with yours that you sold to bigben.

BMW wheels yes but i thought they were staggered 7.5 front and 8.5 rear or 7 front 8 rear. Need wheel adaptors making but they're 5 x 130 i think which are a bit dodgy if going to 4 x 100 but 5 x 100 is easier i think. Once on i think they're gonna look like any other 16" BBS wheeld Corrado, check furks old 1 out, he was running 9's out back so with the adaptors it would look similar.

The effort required to run the standard 20v management is so much more but the outcome will be a much more reliable fully sorted car, so i say if you have it all and for free then you would be daft to not use it. If you want rid of DBW then you can use a diff throttle body, not entirely sure which 1 but i believe its off a mk3, then get the ECU docoded of the immobiliser circuit, so all you would need to do is fit the engine, ECU and loom without the need for the keys and ignition.

Keep the wheels, dont bother with a plate and get smashed in the pub.

17 x7.5 compomotive cxr 215 x 40 x 17 toyo and falken tyres ET 35 Lowered 50mm ish on coilovers Very very slight scrape on inner arch on full lock thats not even noticable, no arch mods yet

I would say expensive miles :shock: but 8) that gave a big :D

No links im afraid, its just a case of calling them to get the old quote im afraid. Well the car is off the road indefinately so the gearbox will be getting sorted somehow but i dont know what exactly im going to do tbh.

Well i can put £10 in and do 30 miles

People choose to rat rod nowadays but back in the day it was not a choice like "i want my car to be rusty" it was what it was. IIRC there was a guy who was building a rod car and he was going to show it somewhere but never got round to finishing it and was painted in primer but he liked it so much he left it that way and it kind of grew from there.

Very fitting that it has a 'reliability kit'

Have a look at or call venom motorsport as 1 place you could try.

You heard of Source Sounds & Security at Chapeltown? May not be the cheapest but certainly 1 of the best and the after sales is 2nd to none, quite literally the best service i have ever had from any company that i have used. Very highly recommended.

We are on topic talking about a rat rod. Rat rodding was around in the 1950's, you were a rat rodder and looked down on by the street rodders in their blinged up rods. I thought that though he must be lying down surely, i know he was stood next to a low roof car but when he got out he looked over 6ft and how narrow was the windscreen cut out :shock: