Toad

Yeah, really do like the wheels, trying to find out what finish they have, as I want it on my speedies. :) If you can pull the hard drive out your old laptop, i've got a usb cradle it can go in to retreive data.

You can swap the lock barrels between handles. Sorry to see this mate :(

Remove the cable from the throttle body and try opening and close it by hand. Then give the cable a bit of a tug back and forth.

If you can get it apart you just need a top cap. If not I have a strut I could remove and send, but it'll cost a fair bit in postage.

Click advanced search, then enter +how +to +put +pants +on +right +way +round -Thong -adder Select the clothing forum, threads, not posts, and Robert is that smelly old great Uncle you weren't allowed near when you were a child.

Happy Birthday :)

:lol: Genius.

Looks lovely :)

I'll have a crack at it..... You didn't want it back this year I assume?

Aluminium is much less efficient at absorbing heat (thermal conductivity) than Copper is. Copper ftw if you can get some sinks in it. Don't be fooled by copper coloured sinks, they're normally aluminium anodised to look like copper :brickwall: Aluminium is good though if that's all there is to offer :salute: True but copper is heavy, aluminium is light and at the end of the day its all about surface area.. JMC, yeah thats stock intercooler cooling figures coupled with stock charger heat output figures, so a modded charger will need a bigger cooler as you would expect hotter charger exhaust temps. It is all just speculation without some hard figures though as I sure you will agree, although any form of cooling improvement, even just 5 degrees, in the charge air temp will give performance increases - its just a question of how much bang you get for your buck. Hmmmm. I think I might get the blow torch and solder out and try soldering some fins onto the VR sump. I reckon a few bits of channel bent to fit the sump would be interesting, plus if they're not attached *that* well then they will not cause damage to the sump if I ground out. Fuel cooler would be good, I guess that is the issue with injection systems with returns running back to the tank. The tank on my dads old lorry would get warm enough to make water steam off in the winter. :?

1J0 711 256 apparently :) I was going to buy one of the gruvenparts units, but can't really justify it at the moment. The earlyer shifters were better with the blt and the available adjustment at the gearbox end :)

Balls. You should have given me a ring, I've been looking at a spare one of them today that I'm sure the owner could have lent you. You can also get Gruvenparts alloy ones that are shorter than normal and reduce the side to side motion of the stick.

4 Cylinder model, as the subframes will be right. I assume you'll change the suspension, brakes etc, so I'd go for the one with the best interior and exterior that you can find for the right price, g60 or 16v doesn't matter but I suspect that you're more likely to find a valver cheaper.

Good work, always nice to see people get thier comeuppance :)

Check the coilpack for cracks/arcing.

You really do need a job, don't you?

Now then Mardy Bum, I'm in trouble again, aren't I? While you lie over there, pulling that silent dissapointment face, the one that I can't bear.... Grumpy, in a word.

V9, 263s and some naff looking backbox. 2nd gear is scary but fun, 1st is over way too quickly! No charge cooling or water injection? That's really good power :)

What's the spec now then??

The trailer would have probably weighed 1 tonne, which I would have been a bit surprised if that had crushed the car as badly. I think most of the extra damage would have been the distance it got dragged upside down, and probably a fair bit of weight being transferred from the car. Anyway, the tow car doesn't look that badly matched to the trailer and rado. the main thing is getting the balance right and not putting too much or too little weight on the tow ball. Shame for the owner though.

What car? I just did mine (16v), 24mm spanner and there was just enough room to crack it off and undo by hand. With the VR, remove the driver side headlight and you can reach through the hole. Never done a g60 though. alternatively buy a deep 24mm socket.

Jim, you are a massive ferret! I wouldn't do anything until you get hold of the car and find out what the damage is. TBH, I'd probably just get on and drive it for a bit, try to find out what other foibles the car has, so , while the engine is out, you can look to sort other jobs, kind of like what I'm doing... Will be interesting to see the car and have a bit of a poke around, but for the money, you can't really go that wrong. I'm not entirely happy with you taking myself and Pinkus's word on it, you really should grab a flight over on Saturday, and rride back with us. Along with the other offers, I'd be more than happy to ift the engine out and pallet it up if you want. Out of interest, can you afford to buy it and lay it up for a while? Just till you can buld the cash up to do work on it? If it were me in this situation, I'd just try to pick up a cheap used engine, throw a set of rings in it, head gasket, head rebuild, chains, clutch, roberts your mothers brother 100k of trouble free driving.

Is there anything else that can cause this? Mine also suffers this issue, and the strap is fine. I also fitted an extra earth from the head to the battery which didn't help.

Good to see you back again Martin. Parked a G60 in the shed tonight, not mine, but I've started getting bad ideas about expanding the collection again....

Poo + letter box = 100% successful resolution.