Toad

Certainly not. If air could get in under atmospheric pressure, hydraulic fluid wouldn't have any issue getting out under hydraulic pressure. To be honest this problem sounds entirely like a seized caliper, I can't believe for a moment its got anything to do with the brake fluid not having been changed. It may be ideal to change fluid more often but how many people really do. I've left fluid in donkeys years longer than that with no ill effects at all. I'd go with that... or air in the system. Old brake fluid won't be quite as effective, but I can't see how it would cause problems this severe. Supercharged changes his underpants 4 times every day, just in case, so I wouldn't worry too much about some slightly old brake fluid :lol: I concur. I heard he was up to 6 pairs, since he puts 2 pairs on at night, and during lunch :scratch:

And your rover with the tartan rug on the back seat. :lol: To be fair to Lucy, she's gotten on and done the job herself which is a lot more than most people on this forum would do, I don't think it's a bad thing that she doesn't hold the car in the same reverance as most of us and will get on and do very different things to what most of us would expect. It might not be the nicest corrado on here, but it is still a corrado, and if Lucy hadn't bougth it, it could have ended up scrapped or stripped.

I'd pt money on it not being the VW immobiliser if there is no spark or fuel whatsoever. I don't understand why people do a half arsed job and miss things like diagnostic ports off of engine conversions. I'd look at crank sensor first, as that will allow cranking but prevent any sort of start.

If it's got a coilpack its one of the later units, 4 pin maf would make it a pretty sure bet. Does it fire and cut out after a second or two? That's how the VAG immobiliser normally cuts in. I'd throw it on VAG com to see if there is anything obvious. There is a lot of info on here about the standard immobiliser playing around if you do a search.

The non return valve in the fuel line or pump has failed by the sounds of things, or there is a small leak in the fuel pipe toward the engine end.

I don't think a vr is any more expensive to run than a G60 :scratch:

I think thats fecking cool. :)

I use my credit card, but pay it off in full every month, just means the money is in my bank slightly longer, I pay for bits through prostitution and other secondary work activities.

The rodentator, it's a lance connected to propane and oxygen bottles, you fill rodent nests up with the gas and ignite. Only legal in this country if the nest is empty. Makes a big bang and the ground shake. Might not be a good idea to fill your garage with propane and then light it though

Cool, I'm mostly going to be spraying my car this year, it's white so I guess I can't go *that* wrong.

have you put the + terminal on the starter motor to the right bolt? it's easy to get the earth and + strap mixed up. Is the three pin wire for the speed sensor on the gearbox? Were my directions for the wires not right?

Oh dear.... On the plus side, you were on Clapham common, couldn't you have picked up a nice MP sugar daddy, or the bloke from American Beauty to pay for it?

ROFL!!!!!! Did you paint it yourself? Good work for trying something different. Probably not to many corrado fans taste, but good to see someone doing something a bit different...

Fcuking pikeys.

Here are some pics in no particular order. Sorry for that... Bear in mind the flexi to solid line position is different on later cars.

Indeed. Got an Australian visiting at the moment who has rented a 207cc. Seems alright, but has about 548 motors to fold the hood, bet it will be a right gimp when it gets old...

If you don't have one I can source one... mostly by walking to the breaker... Where are those pics you had from that weekend?

Ummm, there are, but I just did mine tight... I'll try to sort pics tonight...

Problem: Driveshaft and hub removed from car, but hub nut still tight. Well tight enough that a vice and an errant boost monkey couldn't hold the hub while I tried to undo it.... Solution: See below...

I've done G60 fronts and was going to write a guide but never got round to it. I've got all the pics on the other computer, I'll post them tonight. Basically, off the top of my head, you need: 11mm brake pipe spanner or good open ended spanner, 13mm spanner/socket, 14mm spanner , 15mm spanner, 19mm and 18mm sockets, ratchet and breaker bar, large phillips screwdriver, Brake fluid, Brake fluid recepticle or easybleed kit, Copper grease, WD40 or similar Wire brush Items that can come in useful but not essential Hammer and punch might be handy Assistant to laugh at you while you swear Tap to clean up the threads on the hub for calliper carrier bolt and locating screw Parts required G60/VR 280mm callipers and carriers. Brakelines (note difference in legnth ~1991) G60/VR6 brake pads G60 brake disks Calliper carrier to hub bolts, New spring clips for solid-flexi hose connection Might need access to copper brake line and flaring tools if all goes badly. Right. Do you need this car to go to work tomorrow? if you do, you might want to think carefuly as you can knacker your solid brake lines and need to make new ones. Jack car up, remove front wheel etc. Take wire brush and poking item and clean up the joint between solid and flexi brake lines, give a large dose of WD40 or similar. Look down the back of the hub and locate the old carrier to hub bolts, liberally does with WD, especially on the ends of the threads, between the hub and disk. Try to loosen solid line to flexi line, make sure the 11mm spanner fits welll and you will not twist it off, if it is really tight, bend the spring clip with pliers or screwdriver to release tension, apply more WD, and using a punch and hammer, clout the union on the flexi line, this might help to free any corrosion off. attack again with spanner until the connection comes loose, nip this back up so it doesn't leak for the time being. It might be the case that this connection will not undo, in which case you will need to make a new solid line up. Do a search for this as it has been covered... Undo the caliper to carrier bolts 2x 13mm with 15mm collars on the inside of the pins, and remove the calliper, you can hang this from the coils by string, or sit it on the wishbone. Remove old pads. Take breaker bar and 19mm socket (I think, could be 17mm) and undo the carrier to hub bolts, these will be chuffing tight no doubt. Remove carrier, and disk (remove locating screw beforehand) you might need to encourage the disk off with a hammer at this point. clean any threads up and fit g60 disk with locating screw, I like to put copper grease between the hub and disk to prevent it sticking next time. fit the g60 carriers, and use new bolts to secure, do these up nice and tight. fit pads(backs and sliding edges copper greased up), calliper and fit bolts loosely, then remove existing calliper flexi line from solid line and fit new calliper flexi line to solid line (minimises losses using this method. I like to open the nipple on the calliper at this point until fluid runs out. Check all bolts are tight, and after checking brake fluid level, bleed brakes. Repeat on other side and feel smug. This method is the same for changing disks too... For Mk4 rears, leave car in gear, handbrake off. Jack car and remove wheel. undo flexi line to solid line connection using method described above. remove handbrake cable clip and using screwdriver to move handbrake pawl, remove cable, remove calliper as described above, refit mk4 unit with conversion hoses, retighten and bleed brake. Job is a gooden....

i will mostly be using Vag rear axle bushes, and TT/R32 rear wishbone bushes with standard front wishbone bushes, or possibly new wishbones depending how stodgy they are.

The wishbones are on backward..... ;)

Go old school for the torques, spanner and spring balance and maths :)

Looks really good, will have to get a south coast meet organised so we can get a look at it in the flesh :)

Oh dear. At least you found out that it works in theory though. how long till you can get the new block built up and installed then?