Toad

Go and poo through their letterbox.

They are fecking hideous. But, how can such an obvious taste vaccum afford the vast tonnage of fibre glass needed for these monstrosities???

:) Great! I'll try to call you tonight to catch up...

Get the megasquirt pics up....

There is a mark on the flywheel, but you can't see it with the gearbox fitted, hence the mark on the aux pulley. The Bentley does tell you to use the tooth on the starter ring, but you just can't see it. The cams can only fit one way round, as the notch for the locking tool is offset. I did wonder if it had previously been set wrongly, hence the issues now.

Good morning, I know that there is a good guide in the Wiki and another good thread on this, but I had some problems over the weekend whilst fitting some cams to a VR. Firstly, we timed the engine so that the tdc notch on the crank pulley aligned to to mark on the crank case*, and found that the cams fitted appeared to be a tooth out, so rechecked the crank pulley before removing the cams, fitting new ones with cam locking tool, and turning the engine over by hand to check the timing was correct. Again, it appeared that the cams were 1 tooth out, unfortunately at this point one cam jumped a 2 teeth or so, so rather than struggle and try to work out which way to turn the cams, I removed them so I could turn the bottom end over with no risk of piston-valve interference, set the crank pulley to the TDC mark, checked that the notch in the intermediate shaft was pointing up toward me (as shown in the bentley), and I could make out that the small pointer on the intermediate shaft was pointing upwards, as I would expect. The plugs were out, and we could see that No. 1 and 6 were at TDC. I refitted the cams with the locking tool, then began to turn the engine over again by hand to make sure everything was aligned properly. Unfortunately after about 1/2 a turn the engine came up solid, as if No. 2 or 3 (??) had hit one of the valves, now I cant see how this would happen, but decided to stop at that point. Surely if the engine is at TDC, the intermediate shaft is correct and the cams are fitted with the locking tool, then it must be timed correctly? The car has had chains and tensioners done in the past, but must have been set to TDC before, the flywheel and crank pulley can only fit one way round, so their marks must be correct, but I'm rather confused now... *I've not got a picture of the crank pulley marks, but there is a small notch on the inside of the aux belt pully which lines up with a raised line at around 5 o'clock on the end plate.

I quite like this pic...

Fairy liquid for lube.

I fitted a genuine VAG one to my VR and it was even further out than my 15 year old wonky arsed unit I replaced. If your car isn't boiling over, the fans come on when it gets hot etc then I wouldn't get too worried just yet, but I understand that it would be nice to have a properly working gauge.

Your gauge/temp sender to the gauge are playing up??

My my, you lot have been busy. The calipers are from a late VR, I took them off complete with pipes just before the BBQ, the late pipes are rubber down to a 2 inch metal section with a male end on that fits into the caliper. This is the section Monkey first talked about. Early 16v calipers have a short bent metal pipe attached which fits into the caliper and is bolted onto the caliper giving a male end at the caliper, this is the bit people were getting confused with. I'm not sure if early G60s had this short bent pipe section or not? if they didn't then I'd just buy a set of those pipes, but ETKA seems to suggest that there are only early 300ish mm pipes and late 425ish mm pipes. I fitted late VR calipers to my 16V using the late long pipes but they rub the wheel arch at certain points. I cured this by using a bit of inner tube and cable ties to protect the goodridges. I *think* the bent pipe section might be transferable *if* you can get it off, and *if* you can tap the screw holes int he VR callipers out. I honestly didn't realise it was all going to be such a ball ache, sorry Jon! If you can't get the hoses I'll give you your money back and sell them on again. Mr Hub, I think you need to get a tap and retap the holes for the hoses, and clear the tapered section at the bottom of the holes.

Really like the Borbet Ts.

Yeti, the subframes are different for 4 and 6 cylinder cars, so the 24v and r32 engine drop into VRs easily and the 1.8ts drop in to 16v and G60s easier. To put a 1.8t in your VR, you would (as i understand it) need a set of 4 cylinder subframes, plus all the other crap that goes with them.

I wouldn't be in a massive hurry to remove the carbon canister, the motronic ECU appears to like having it and it's associated valves connected. CrazyDave looked at this a while back and found it improved his running problems when he refitted it.

There must be someone with a very early g60 on here that could tell you... Try Sonicriot, I'm sure his is an H plater.

Only trouble is that VR lines are a lot longer and rub on the inner arch. i've had to pikey some inner tube and cable ties up to protect my pipes. :oops:

I bought later G60 pipes which have male ends on but were too long, I think early G60 pipes would be correct, or you can buy double enders to convert female to female.

If the factory immobiliser is at fault, the engine will fire or a second or two, and then cut out. The crank sensor will stop it from firing altogether..... Seriously though, get VAG Com connected somehow, guessing at sensors is expensive and boring. The fault could also be ignition switch, ecu relay, ecu itself. I felt I did explain the factory immobiliser in fairly understandable terms in my first post, and repeating myself gets me in a huff, so I'm off to the pinicle of VW forums, Edition 38, and not coming back ever again, you bunch of tards. :bad-words: :mad2: :hitler: :sleeping: :nono: :camp: :scratch: :P

FFS. The ecu will fire for a couple of revolutions and then cut the engine if it's the vw immobiliser, if it's even fitted, I already said that. if the crank sensor is shot, it won't detect that the engine is turning, so won't try to get a spark. Just get VAG Com on, it'll save all this faffing around. I knew I shouldn't have let you get out of the wrong side of the bed this morning :lol: Hahahahahahahahahahaha. Yeah, shame we had to get up at all.... Anyway, I'm now grumpy.

You need a slap for that... How about a good paddling with a ping pong bat?

I quite like that.....

Oh well, at least it won't be a surprise next week then!

FFS. The ecu will fire for a couple of revolutions and then cut the engine if it's the vw immobiliser, if it's even fitted, I already said that. if the crank sensor is shot, it won't detect that the engine is turning, so won't try to get a spark. Just get VAG Com on, it'll save all this faffing around.

And testicles???

Even worse, the isle of the three legged women and bald cats.