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Toad

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Everything posted by Toad

  1. I have some old spare VR cams. Might be worth having a word with DG too as I heard a rumour they had been working out a cam spec for VRs...
  2. Toad

    Fuel tank removal

    The straps and I think there's 2 bolts and a wire near the filler neck. Plus the fuel pump wiring and pipework.
  3. My rear axle bushes are due again and I've decided I'm not keen on the PRS , so I'll be going with Vibratechnics ones. I'll let you know what they're like! I've got poly bushes on the rear of mine if you want to try them out at all Kev.
  4. It's also worth noting that I just assumed a nice smooth curve for the cam profile, it might in fact have a different shape to the one I've guessed at.
  5. It shows how open the valves are against the position of the crankshaft. The engine does two revolutions in a complete compression cycle.
  6. Pull the clip at 2 on the diagram out, think you need to do both of them, then the whole assembly should move sideways and then lift out.
  7. Magnets will pick up metal filings which can scratch paintwork though. I do have a magnetic one, but never use it. Always forget to take it with me.
  8. Not being funny, but wouldn't it be slightly better to ask on the E38 forum?
  9. Here's a quick plot of the valve openings for the Kent cams vs. a set of Shrick 264s, the kents have more overlap than the shricks, with the inlet opening later and the exhaust sooner. Each valve is open for 264 degrees. The Kent cams have about 10.95mm lift as opposed to 10.2mm lift for standard and 11.4 for the shricks.
  10. I'd go out and drive them all, see what you like.
  11. Use a 3/8" drive socket, not the 1/2", otherwise they can foul on the rocker cover gasket part way down the hole. Last thing you want is to get the socket stuck in the hole.
  12. Moved to suppliers. Not sure mate, but I bought one from ECP, and it's bollocks.
  13. What you need is one of these brackets and one of these fans
  14. I know the number plate was broken by the towball, hopefully if there is more damage, it'll be hidden by the new number plate.
  15. I had a look at them today, hoping that you could get a 21mm and 22mm socket to help do front top mounts. Sadly the 3/8th set is too small, the centre bore just isn't big enough. If ever the next size up (1/2") gets cheaper, then I'll snap it up.
  16. Well, it's been a year since the VR went back on the road. Which surprised me, and I'd not booked it in for an MOT. Luckily they slotted me in early as they had a cancellation, and it passed without any advisories, which was nice. Celebrated by reversing into the 16v tonight. :roll:
  17. He's in it loads, and his name is in the credits, and the report into the supersonic hamster crash. His company does consultancy work for Top Gear. I didn't think it was a big secret? Was anyone that surprised? [youtube:3odn5jjp]8ZyGMKpgyHA[/youtube:3odn5jjp]
  18. Nah, some early cars have it. But late VRs don't necessarily have it.
  19. Not trying to spend more of your money, but.... the 3/8" kit is pretty good too. I bought an extension set for it too.
  20. Hold a lump hammer against the back of the casting, and hit the front with another hammer, hard. Also some leverage helping to lift the tapered part out of the casting will help. And for heat, an oxy acetylene cutting torch is the way to go.
  21. I've been running rainsports 2s for a year, and am about to buy another 4. They seemed ok in the snow last year, but then I am amazing! ;)
  22. Yup. Twice. Just need to encourage the irwins on with the use of a hammer. Not sure if it's a standard sized one or a expansion pack socket.
  23. The shear bolts will come out with irwins.
  24. It's lifted in a few places. :( Might try wet sanding a couple of spots, but one bit on the wing is back to primer!
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