Toad

Don't be stupid. There's no snow.

:)

1.8 or 2l?

Hopefully they will sort some prices out.

Yup.

So the driver can poo out the back window when things get a bit hairy?

I'd stick to genuine where possible.

I take it you havnt met Toad :fondle: :lol: :lol: The main reason I stopped there was because a toyota hilux was going so slowly in front of me I'd never have enough momentum to get up the next hill, I had to wait for him to get out the way. There wasn't anything bad about driving down there to be honest, just drive smoothly and carefully and you'll be fine. I'm waaaaaaaay too lazy to even start to put the level of effort it takes in to run some sort of club and society. Must be a complete nightmare at times.

Try a Mk4 unit instead, Linky!

Sometimes other things completely redirect your attention. I've certainly shifted most of my attention away from cars this last year. Think I over did it a bit in the past.

No nearby access to a scanner, but these poorly taken camera phone pictures may whet your appetite until someone else comes along with the goods! Cheers dude! That's good enough for me. :D

:lol: They could have washed the car, the dirty bugger. :wink: Now I'm moderately familiar with the pic, but can someone scan it so I can see? Thanks. xxxxx

All 1.8 16v engines in the Golf and Corrado and probably Passat were the KR coded engine. To answer your question, you've got exactly the same power you did last week...

Moved and I put the info regarding the part no.s in the first post.

Can you stick to one thread please?

I thought the end of Paranormal Activity was the best bit. Most of it was rubbish though...

Aaah right. The wierd delay with this forum isn't helping at the moment. Haha,

That's what I just said, isn't it?

There's no difference in the actual engine. It's just the manifold, throttle body and some sensors. If your car has a distributor, then just swap the upper chain cover for the one with the hole for the dizzy and off you go.

Rog, did you order a lead yet? I might have one knocking around that you're welcome to.

All the ones I've seen have had damaged top guides, independant of the state of the tensioner pad. Mine had about 70k on it (replacement engine) Upper guide was cracked and broken, lower guide was in lots of pieces with some lumps of plastic jammed in the oil pump pick up pipe. Surprised none had jammed in the sprockets and chain.

Get someone to shotblast them for you. Stripping them is RRRRRrrubbbish.

Yeah, that's right. They're bonded to the metal strip. I don't think you can remove them with the strip attached. How about remove the scissor mech, then put the glass at a funky angle, and have a fiddle?

Yeah. I'd leave the arms in the rollers alone, as they shouldn't restrict it's movement.

Yeah, whip the door card off and there's 2x 10mm bolts holding the regulator to the bottom of the glass, I reckon if you just take them out it might drop far enough for you to pop it in properly.