Toad

Yeah, it's an airlock. Fill the system from the top rad hose, disconnect it from the rad and pour coolant into the radiator until that is full and then fill the rest of the system via the top hose with the header tank cap removed. Start the car and let it warm up with the cap removed, whilst watching air escaping out the bleed pipe that plumbs into the header tank. check the pipes are all getting hot, the heater matrix pipes, the top hose then the bottom hose in that order... when the bottom pipe starts to warm, put the cap back on and let it get up to fan operating temp. then let it cool, over several hours or overnight. top up the coolant and you should be sorted, although you might like to run through the bleeding proceedure again to make sure.

I've just been having a quick fiddle with my vr, trying to work out why it's underpowered aand having found no air leaks had a look at the MAF. Can anyone tell me if unplugging my MAF should cause the car to splutter or stall? It's a very late VR with the CP (i think) coded ecu, and 4 pin film type MAF, rather than a hot wire unit. Is this the same set up as yours was Dave?? Cheers. Tom

Yeah, I can't work out why they are so big. The funny thing is, the ecu and the gauge read similar temperatures , well up to ~5 degree differences, up to about 90 degrees on the old sender and upto about 80 degrees on the new one before the temp gauge shoots upward. I did wonder about wiring, especially after that slightly chafed cable we saw when replacing the thermostat housing, but the readings seem too consistent at the lower temperatures. I suppose the best way to check the engine loom would be to get the pin number from the master plug and check the resistance.

Just means the new one is working properly.. Nope, sorry mate.... The ecu says 91 degrees, the thermostat is slightly open as the bottom hose is lukewarm, and the gauge reads 110 now. IMO the actual coolant temp is 91 degrees, but the gauge is overreading by 10 degrees with the old sender and 20 with the new one... No worries Mr Owl... My problem is that it isn't overheating, it's just the gauge getting excited. My oil takes around 15 mins to get to 80-90 too, which is a bit boring.. it's been noticable with the cold nights recently how the oil temp has been kept down around 100. Yeah, there's a lot of things that can be wrong or different... I wonder how they test the senders/ what the acceptable tollerances at the sender factory are??

Yeah it does rather... I might have to go to a county court proceeding after I modified a transit van about 3 years ago with a tractor. At the time it shook me and made me realise how easily I could have killed someone, tbh I'd forgotten that feeling until I read that thread and though about it a bit. I'm quite lucky, it's not a criminal proceeding and the insurance company will stump up the cash for the van driver, dunno why it's gone to court after 3 years, but still.... I think I'll drive home more sensibly tonight...

I think my KR head rebuild cost me about £300. I have head of GSF cambelt tensioners giving problems in the past, and would always replace this part when doing the head. The head shop will woan the head set to use the seals in the rebuild. Timing isn't too hard to set up. Might be worth putting new tappets in if you're feeling flush...

I can meet you somewhere if you want? Whereabouts around Andover do you live? Call it £15 collected/met? It should be the right beast, I'll take a look at mine tomorrow when it's lighter. The part number should be 1JO 955 119 according to ETKA, and it was £90 new... I'll pm you when the forum is fixed, or email your number to [email protected] Tom

Did you get the hesitancy sorted in the end? was it just the loose bolts at the end? Mine is pretty poor at the moment, don't get any vag com errors, but when I open the measuring blocks up in vag com the o2 reading cycles from 1 and back... What's that about???

Updatage..... Bought the new sender from VW today and...... It shoots up to 100 degrees even quicker than the old one. :( Anyone got any ideas? Could it be the wiring?

I'm going to have to get that cheque sent to rejoin CCGB, then I can see the website! its crap imo, nothing on there, or maybe i can't find it. tbh probably the worse corrado related £10 i've spent :lol: What about the 10% discount at the dealers/GSF and the ability to put your car on the club stand at any of the shows over the summer?? my £10 has paid for itself many times over...

Mine wasn't too bad... just a bit of wiggling and it popped out... I wonder if I've had an engine rebuild as it's quite clean?? Hmmmm Something doesn't add up with it....

I've got a motor if you need....

It's a little bit fun too though, isn't it?? :D My valver often slides out a bit on certain roundabouts if it's wet and clear of traffic, and has been provoked...

Has the belt snapped???

...and a beard. ...and a collection of hats last seen in the YMCA video... I'd love a nugget, but I don't look after the cars enough and it would be a shame to let me near them. I'm also going for all new OE suspension. That's what the cars gained their handling reputation with after all...

Morning mate. Was interesting to talk last night, and as you said, there's a few shiney items that should help get you a few quid in, sad that it's had to come to this, but the decision is made now. The shells seem to be worth nothing. Maybe it's worth keeping that?? I'm going to scrap my two... I have a funny feeling that the corrado price depression is here to stay, so when you do find yourself in a position where you can look for something to put the engine in, you won't have to spend too much money. Nice to speak to MrsBeige too! Tell her I found a marquee manufacturer that can knock a dress up to fit me... Good luck with everything mate!

:(

To be honest, I didn't even consider a 24v, I am guessing that the clutch and chains, and a head rebuild are going to cost £800 and then it's my labour for free. That money would get me a long way toward a 24v engine, but I can't be arsed with the hassle. The VR is just a runaround for me, and all I want is reliability, and the occasional smile on my face. Hopefuly with the engine sorted and most of the suspension rebuilt or replaced there won't be too many things left to break... It's never going to be a show & shine winner, but I want to get to the state where all my spare cash can go into an ABF turbo engine for my 16v Going to replace wishbones etc whilst i'm at it too...

Is that the one that has been mentioned already? Could you post a part No. please? Yeah, that's what I was thinking, just as well get the head rebuilt completely. My 16v head was about £300, so the VR should be slightly less. Is there anyway to check the bottom end without stripping it?

I know it would make more sense to do the complete job now, but one thing I thought was that if the head gasket goes, then the engine can stay in to do it. Although admitedly I do have concerns about it... Guess I'll just have to see how money is in January, but I've a funny feeling that I'll do the whole lot. No point in doing things half arsed eh? Cheers for all the information. Anyone got any further suggestions for work? Can't really afford to buy higher spec components either :( I had hoped to be able to afford a Shrick and some cams but can't...

That'd be great if you could, but innappropriate on a public forum... ;) Cheers dude

What is the tune on the video?

I saw an R8 on the road the other day, it was in a vile light blue with silver side blade things. Didn't float my boat at all, but I think in the right colour it could look lovely...

Good evening. I was wondering what people thought of my plans... The chains are particularly rattly in the vr at the moment, so I plan to take the engine and box out in January, put new chains, tensioners, oil pump, clutch and possibly gearbox on. The car runs smoothly, pulls fairly well, doesn't smoke, or use oil, but has done 140k. Should I take the head off and rebuild it whilst it's in bits anyway? I wa splanning to get new stem seals guides, get the valves ground back in, full decoke, new tappets etc. But theres' probably very little wrong with it, so is it worth the extra £300? I'm swaying toward going the whole hog, then I'll be able to check the bores out and mensure the bottom end is still good, and I can be confident that the engine will not need work till at least 200k. Also which head gasket should I go for? I've heard that the mk4 24v one is better than the vr h/g and increases compression slightly. All opinions welcome!

O/T If it's really an H reg, then it should be K Jet. It doens't have a Cat does it?