Toad

16v and vr6, perfect combination! I'm going to have the turbo situation the other way round though ;)

Not a clue I'm afraid. I'd guess at a bit of both, until the engine reaches a certain temperature the emissions are going to be pretty cack, so the lambda would start affecting the mixture. Glad you've found the issue...

I love it. Nice work Yan! You seem to be owning a lot of my favourite colour corrados....

As do I. Have read that it's for the emergency fan, but not quite sure if that's true or not...

Think it controls the after run fan and the gauge. Dunno what the black one does though.... Yellow one is the one you want, does both gauge, fan control and aux water pump. There are usually only 2 on UK VR's on that plastic housing, third one is for aircon. 701 919 369 D is what you want although it listed as black/blue on ETKA the last one I had was yellow. Cheers Yan, I just did some digging and found that out. was talking to 2cc and he kindly whipped his sender off his engine (which was removed) and gave me the part number of 701 919 369 B Which when put into ETKA has been dropped and replaced by 701 919 369 D which is, as you say Blue/black not Yellow/black Cheers everyone!

Think it controls the after run fan and the gauge. Dunno what the black one does though....

Afternoon. It would appear that the temp sender for my temperature gauge is playing up on my vr and I would like to replace it. It's got a yellow ring on it on the car and 4 pins. I've phoned the local dealer, and they only show a blue/black 4 pin sender for the car. Is this the right one? Have they changed the colour scheme recently? I believe it controls the gauge and the after run on circuit, if this helps. Alternatively, has anyone got a part number for this bit? Thanks Tom.

Ah, OK, didn't know that. It think that's why it didn't play up til the engine was hot, as has been touched on upon by Jim. The lambda has to get to a certain temperature before it will give readings, until this point the ecu uses set values, and whilst the engine was cold it hadn't reached that temperature. It's like driving at WOT, the ecu stops using the lambda readings (I think...) I thought that the lambda was heated within 20 seconds of startup though...

2k sounds a bit steep to me. I'd be looking at £1000 ish for a respray...

Have you tried vag com? It was the blue temp sender you changed? I'd try watching the values on vag com from cold to running, see if the sender is right. It could be damage to the wiring for that sensor. Mine starts first time, but if you release the key to quick, it can be a bugger to get going again. Are your plugs nice and clean?

I love the blue/red unit.

I'd look at the connection to the header tank Jim. Maybe the header tank sensor is rooted otherwise.

I agree with the others about the moisture issues. Also, I think the difference in performance you've noticed is due to the pipe being relatively small and going through several bends, at low speeds the engine will need to suck air up the pipe if it's connected. By leaving it with a gap, you will get the best of both worlds, at low speeds you'll suck in air from the engine bay, and at high speeds you will experience a ram effect as air is forced up the pipe.

That was awesome... Good work! Is it on standard suspension? Just goes to show how much work it actually does.

Righty.... You will need to buy. 2x disks 2x sets of rear bearings (inners and outers come together) 1x set of pads (these come with caliper to carrier pin bolts included) 4x caliper carrier to hub bolts. 1x Caliper windback tool or a metal bar and waterpump pliers (if you are me) Loosen the wheel bolts. Jack the car up and secure it with the handbrake off, remove the wheel clean the caliper area up so you don't get grubby. You might find that it is easier to remove the centre tunnel cover and undo the handbrake cable adjusters at theis point to remove the handbrake cable from the caliper. Undo the caliper to carrier pin bolts. 13mm on the outside, 15mm hex on the slider pin. Pull the caliper off and tie up to the suspension to stop in putting pressure on the pipe. Take an Allen key and remove the 2 caliper carrier to hub bolts. These will be tight and rubbish. Hit them with a hammer and invest in a set of allen key sockets. Remove caliper carrier. Remove centre cap split pin and locking ring, remove nut and slide disk off. At theis point the inside race will be on the stub axle. You will need to pun it off. If hitting it with a hammer be very carefull as the race will splinter causing metal/eye interface issues. Clean up stub axle with emery cloth if necessary. Push inner race onto stub axle Press bearings and dust guard into disk. grease and place disk and bearings on stub axle. Install washer and nut, tighten nut with socket set and spin disk to ensure that the bearings are seated correctly. then loosen nut fully and retighten by hand and spin disk until the washer can just be moved with a screwdriver and light pressure. Install locking ring and split pin, put carriers back on and possibly replace slider pin boots. ANd I'll finish the guide once I've collected some bales...

Great! Did it just take a lot of prodding with the wire in the end?

I've encoutered this issue. Haven't the foggiest how to sort it though. Nothing in the bentley either :(

Joe, the ignition could have been advanced a coupel of degrees which would give you a touch more power, but make it run poorly on normal petrol. This would be done by twisting the distributer a touch.

The subframe and wishbones do look awesome. Think I've got to put that on my wishlist now, damn you ;)

Lol!!! I had a funny feeling about this...

bump. Personally I'd be tempted to hang out for some ibiza 305s, that'll make disk and pad changes easier in the future with OE parts.

You want to come back??? . yeah, i doubt i could handle the americans forever and would soon of tired all the girls out :lol: Lol. Fair enough!

Yup, the pump will leak when the seals go, so that the bearings are protected and you can finish your journey/won't have a issue with your tensioner belt getting chewed up. You can replace the pump by removing the engine mount bolts and jack the engine up. Would be worth fitting a Gruvenparts alloy tensioner pulley while you're at it and a new belt.

You want to come back??? I've no idea where I'd like to go, apart from scurry over the Stelvio pass. I'd just like to have a week or two of drivign around with a few mates with a nice bit of scenery, maybe just linking up a couple of trackdays/rally stages/24hour races.

That sounds like a problem with the cooling system on the engine.... What engine have you?