Toad

Right... They do seem to be from your photobucket account Walesy.... Are they yours by any chance??? Go on, admit it, you took them..... I think Pic no. 4 shwos her in a better light than the others... ;)

Perhaps I was a bit conservative with my estimate, but making top money will mean having some parts left over for a long time. It seems that noone wants the bare shells either, so budget for getting the shell taken to the scrap yard. I'm lucky in having a place to store my spare car, so I can strip it slowly. and until recently I've just been using the parts on my own car anyway. There seems to be a few more cars being broken at the moment too, which might affect price. Whcih is a good point, how do you price all the bits up? I really struggle to work out what they're worth. Good luck if you do decide to split it.

I thought that the passat handles could be used with the corrado mechs if there is a little bit of striker bending applied first.

I've been having a discussion along these lines with a mate recently.... I can't see that there is a huge value in a corrado in parts. Take a 16v for example (I've got one to break, hence my thinking) Interior. Carpet, plastic parts, seats etc. £300 roughly Engine £100-150 Gearbox £50 Engine Ancillaries £70 Wings, doors, some glass, sunroof, etc £? Wheels £50-£100 possibly This is all for standard items. Obviously if they weren't standard, the cost of the corrado to you would be more. So you look to make maybe £800 from the car. whcih sounds good, but how much did the car cost you? Even if you got lucky and paid very little, you've still got to account for your time. I would reckon on earning £10 per hour to make things worthwhile. When you consider how long it takes to strip a corrado, then the profit begins to drop further. I might be being cynical, but unless you've got a fair bit of spare time to strip the car, spend time advertising it, communicate with buyers, go to the post office (even if postage is paid by the buyer, you stil have to physically spend time packaging and travelling to the post office). Then you might have lost or broken tems that you will lose out on. You might have to deal with disgruntled customers (there've been good examples here recently), it begins to get hard to justify.

I just did mine up 'tight'. Low torques on a torque wrench are a pain in the arse.

No worries. It's nice being able to help another owner out. I do programming as well and often sit for hours looking at problems that take the more experienced guys minutes to work around. For example I spent most of yesterday and this morning trying to get an email server working on my machine to test a program I wrote. Turns out it was the firewall causing my problems, and took a coplue of tweaks to the settings to sort out. As I said before, any questions, just PM me. I'm not the best person in the world ever with corrado mechanics, but I'l help you out wherever I can.

That looks really smart Good work.

Time is the most important thing, it's amazing how long some of the simple jobs end up taking. Tools are quite a problem too. Not many people have access to 3/4 drive socket sets and vices and OxyAcetalene (when it all ges a bit wrong) that's where I'm quite lucky I suppose. I agree with your comments about putting it all back together the way you took it apart, and essentially, there are only so many ways you can do things, but it helps to have someone with a bit of experience to tell you the little tips and tricks that will save you time. It's also nice to have some to look at it a bit differently when you can't figure out what's wrong. If you were a bit closer I'd pop up, but I'm pretty short of time at the moment. I know there's a few people around the cambridge area who know there stuff, and they aren't that far from you. maybe worth approaching some of them?

I've jsut looked through this thread and I agree with a lot of the points made here. But... If you want to learn how to do the jobs, then you have to throw yourself in at the deep end. If you have a double garage, and can do without the car for a couple of days (Incase things go wrong) then I would suggest giving it a go. Front wheel bearings can be pressed in and out with a decent vice. If I were you I'd jack the car up on the side that needs the CV boot, put some blocks/axle stands under it and get ready to get frustrated.... Whip the wheel, off, and remove the hub from the car. You will now be able to either take the hub to a garage to get the bearings pressed in/out or try it with a vice (being very careful to press the bearing straight and not bend the hub.) And also change the CV boot. You can do the boot on the car, but it will be easier, and might be a better learning experience if you take the whole driveshaft off the car. You can replace the ball joints when you come to put the car back together. If you're happy with what you've done, then carry on, if not, take it to a garage to do the rest. Get stuck in mate! It's the only way to really learn the job and your limitations. BTW, these instructions are pretty basic and have missed a few points out. but you'll find guides to each of them on here or the internet/bently etc. Any questions, PM me...

Have you fitted the window yet? I can try to find you some of the rivets I used and post them. It's best to use a set of lazy tongs rather than the plier type of rivet gun because of the location of some of the rivets. Tom

Nah, that looks like a camera on the roof with the timer on to me...

Oh yes. I assumed that the car wasn't running at the moment, but just thought I'd mention it. I would love the chance to take mine off the road to get a few jobs sorted. Oh well VR6/G60 brakes are going on in a fortnight hopefully.

"Are you a car detailer? Hardest game in the world, done it myself, 30 years man and boy but had to give it up, had a terrible back injury you see whilst machine polishing an '89 Jag. Do you like the music of Frank Sinatra???" :lol::lol::lol: ROFL Don't get me wrong, I think there's a lot of skill and dedication involved, but there is something about the way he writes about his special friend Paul.

Is it just me or does anyone else get the word GIMP running through their mind. I bet the bloke who wrote that is a real ale drinking boring weirdo, who sits in the corners of pubs and bothers random strangers. I can also imagine his epitath reading along the lines of "And then Paul let me film him while he had sex with my Mum and my sister which was brilliant, as he was so much better than me." Or maybe I'm just a cynic??

I reckon we ought to shim your throttle cable out a bit Dan, see if it's that first...

So did I :wink:

I've got a spare coil you can try. I'll throw it in the car this afternoon. Did you just take the caps off you plugs in the end?

I'd stick the caps on, they've got to help with locating the injector in the manifold. The best bet for removal is to do it while the engine is warm. They come out loads easier then. When you do build the new injectors up, put the large o ring on before the caps, it's a bugger to get over that little lip otherwise.

nocrap, You can heat them up a bit with a blowtorch and use pliers to twist them. The tend to stick. I used a little bit (and I mean a little bit) of loctite to secure the caps on the new injectors. Just around the injector as I didn't want to risk any getting near the nozzle.

It should come away fine. Try putting a bit of wood against it and giving it a sharp tap with a hammer to break the joint.

Try searching for the installation guide. What head unit is it? I might have a manual somewhere for an older minidisk headunit.

The colouring should be pretty standard. Have a look in your manual or one of those car takey apart books whose names I can't remember..... :mad:

Try Blue Diamond in Chandlers Ford. They might be able to help you. Otherwise I'll ask around at the weekend.

I have got a new Rad, heat exchanger and fan switch. I have been thinking about a new pump to be honest. My question was really about getting a fan capable of moving more air to cool the radiator more quickly, essentially it would be coming on slightly more often for shorter periods of time.

Can anyone tell me what volume of air per minute the standard radiator fan on a 1.8 16v displaces? I was thinking about replacing my old fan with a slimline spal, as I have a mate who can make me up a nice aluminium bracket, and it would probably cool the radiator far more efficiently, which will be important with the summer around the corner. My current standard setup allows the temperature to peak quite high (water ~ 110oC, oil at almost 120oC) and i'd like to reduce the occurences of that. Cheers. Tom