Toad

I just looked... they still are £350!!! or on some sites £450 :shock: Cheers for the tip though

Did you try changing the injectors? Mine would run like a sack of sh!t to start with because the injectors were weeping fuel out. Got better when I changed them, although it's a pain in the arse to start at the moment... I don't think it likes getting cold... I'll have to buy it a jumper.

ROFL I like that....

RADO.001, try this thread

Cheers for the suggestions guys. I'll start to have a look around for one at the start of the week. I suppose WMA compatability would be nice too, as I've recorded several cds on media player now... Anyone know a good place to buy them from either or on or offline?? I don't like buying from Halfools and most "In car entertainment shops" seem to add a massive mark up.

Hi guys I'm after a bit of advice.... My sister's boyfriend wants to buy my sister a MP3 compatable Cd player for her car, so she can listen to some of her own music, as she has a very long drive to and from work every day, and has asked me what he should buy. So I wondered if anyone had any recomendations both for a player and where to buy it from. I'm comptent in fitting them, so that's not a problem. His budget is £100-£150 I believe.. Thanks in advance.... Tom

Right... I've been to see it, and spoken to the geezer, it's a 1979 1.6 GLS, in bronze, original alloys (i think), less than 80k on the clock!! £700 It looks pretty good, although the arches might need some work (I didn't look thaaat hard) The bloke who owns it also has a J plate 1.8 16v corrado, I've told him about the site and he'll have a look on here. Yan, I'll PM you the phone number..

aha! It was me, I also mentioned it on another thread on here ages back.... It's in Winchester on Bar end road, 1.6 GLsomething. £700 last time I saw it (about a week back) I'll not be in Winchester until Saturday sometime, and I'll go and get the phone number off it. If you get bored and want to look for it yourself, you'll find it roughly in the centre of this helpful map.... (well it's not actually on this map... but it gives you an idea to where it lives) add me to MSN if you want to chat about it....

Nice work Trig... Hope this means the Corrado is staying??? I was wandering past a black S3 the other day and couldn't believe how horrible the chrome wing mirrors looked. I would've much prefered body coloured units.

There needs to be only a very tiny amount of play to get the rumbling sound. You're best off to jack it up and spin the wheel, but that's not an infallible method.

I've got a pretty much standard 1990 16v. The only differences from the outside is the black drivers seat. Standard (ish) ride height, although the rear springs are a tad tired now and sagging, and sebrings. I've got a K&N and a straight through exhaust with twin DTM pipes though (It was like that when I got it.) I like to keep it simple.

There is a thread comparing the different heights... I can't remmeber where it is though. Proabaly drivetrain, I'd imagine. There're a lot of people's measurements in there. The standard people were using was the arch to wheel centre. As different size wheels make a difference...

You can press the bearings in with a large socket and a vice.... You might need to heat the caliper bolts with oxy acetylene. or try worth rust off... it's a freezing spray. If the bolts look like they'll round off, use a six sided socket, rather than a multi spline. If I was closer i'd give you a hand myself.

Oooh pick up the relavent Passat Haynes manual, and it'll probably tell you... Just thought of that...

I think there's a proper method for bleeding the brakes with ABS.... Haven't a clue what it is though..... Remember to get some copper grease for the backs of the brake pads...

Very well put indeed.

Sorry to hear things have turned out like this mate. Unfortunately deaths and wills bring out thevery worst in some people, and it sounds like this has happened in this case. After experiencing a close family member acting as executer for a neighbours estate, I'd not like to be involved in the future. Within hours of the neighbour dying we had to literally concrete gates in and baricade the entrances to his farm. As soon as people heard of his death the vultures started to circle... I couldn't believe the number of people who came up with bizzare requests and statements, nor how downright dishonest they were. One thing I learnt was that it takes the best part of a year to sort things out, especially if things hadn't been tied up exactly. Soliciters make mistakes, and lots of them.... Question them further, but if they have handed over THE will, then you'll have to get it from your fathers partner. You will need to be careful here as there is nothing to stop her from destroying the only copy of the will, if she is devious and needs to hide things. I hope that she mellows out in the coming weeks and things don't have to get any more unpleasant for you. Good luck whatever path you take... Tom

Ok, I don't think I'll be offering you a hand then.... it's a bit far to 'pop round' If you can find a decent subframe, there's a little bit of work involved in changing it, I think there was a thread asking about it on here a little while back.

Where are you Louie/Ian?

Not sure, could be 6 months or 3 years! Depends on money situation really and also the condition of my block! (will be looking at finding a 2E 8v block for the right price) I've just turned a 2E down.... I can go and get it for you if you want... I'll find out what he wants for it..... Why do you want a 2E anyhow? I dismissed it as being too much work to convert to 16V. If you are interested by the 2E I can bring it to the RR day if you're gonna be there.

From what I understand, a short runner intake on a N/A engine will probably result in a reduced torque, but I think the jury is out on exactly how bad this effect will be. Chances are it'll be fine, and as a bonus I believe throttle response will be improved by having the throttle body closer to the inlet ports. How long do you plan to run N/A before fitting the turbo?

Now I know who nicked all my crack!

I'd try tightening the filter, only by hand though.... you don't want to too tight. could be from the oil cooler O ring or the pressure senders on the top too. The PS pipe gets engine oil on it when you change the filter, it could be that.... Try checking all the clips are tight on the three water pipes going into the waterpump. they could be leaking, or the O ring between the pump body and the block could be leaking. To change this on a 16v you need to take the belts, the power steering pump, alternator and alternator mounting plate off, and remove the 4 bolts that hold it on. Then the water pump comes off. I'd check everything is tight, clean all the leaks up, check the levels and run it for a few days and check for new leaks. See how much water/oil you are still losing.

Glad you found the answer!!!!!! I'll take a look at mine and find out if I've got a bolt there.

Mine is parked up where I used to work in 2005. I've had a good nose all around our area too, and can work out pretty much exactly what dates the pictures were taken.