dav

thanks mate, not to fussed about colour, looks wicked when it waxed tho. i have a red golf too.

new picture of my car, still standard at the moment spending all my cash on doing up my house, bummer. nearly done tho....... it actually broke down today the the wife was driving to work!!!! :shock: it turned out the be a lose HT lead to the dizzy? RAC-fixed it, how could that just happen? hope you like it.

some more.

I will post some pics once I have resized them, I have a few short video sequences as well but need someone to host them?

Good to know at a classic show we represented.

Went to the Goodwood Revival on Saturday 4th (last weekend), got to say that it was an excellent day out. If you like classic cars you would love it, most definitely going back next year. Got some pics if you want to see, some true classics. And there was only one Carrado in the car park ant it was mine. 8) let me know and i will post them.

i have a few i will try and find them. most are for the 8v Gti tho.

Don’t know if this helps but I found this a while ago.

Found this break setup at RPI Equipped web site, Have a look at the RPI 11" Race Brake Kit VR6 5x100mm. It says minimum wheel clearance is 15” which should be good for people wanting to keep the original wheels (speedlines). Only problem is that they are in the USA. Price is good though. Link http://www.rpiequipped.com/store/c192284.2.html D.

I am going to order a set of the T1-R tomorrow to replace the knackered yoko's I have on my Golf, already have the T1-s on my C-VR6, interested to see what the difference is. Funny enough they work out a few quid cheaper than the T1-S’s :?

That’s sorted now, :oops: To hot in the office, can’t concentrate

found this via the Vortex, http://www.vw-club.ru/vw/gallery/A2cor_concept/ Later. D

Have you ever looked at the mirrors on a TVR, I think most people will recognise them!

Sounds like the same one I have, do you think that the year the car was made would also have something to do with the connector types used? My car is a late 93 model. Do you think that the mighty VW decided to change pump types at a certain year (registration point) and the drop the older one out of circulation? I would like to have the pump work with just the ignition engaged as per normal, I will try and extend the contact points from the connector with some wire and see if it works as it should with the new one.

That sounds a lot better that cutting and splicing on a new connector. Wish I had done that in the first place, so it s gonna be back on with the new and out with the old - again. :roll: The aux water pump does operate with just the ignition engaged, hope it still will. Thanks D.

Check this out, My mate who went to G&S for me said that they did not have any other type of Aux water pump. :roll: So I called a friend of mine who works at VW to see if the pump they have is any different, they had one in stock which was the first shock, the second shock was that the pump that they have is the same as the one I have. So a revision must have been made. The third shock is that after I explained the plug/connector problem, he said that I would have to change the plug/connector. He has the parts I need but I just hate messing with car wiring, probably get shock from that too.

Thanks for the reply mate, I have sent my mate down to G&S to see if they have another (correct) pump. About the ECU re-set the reason I ask is that I put the old pump back and took the car out for a short test drive (temps remained ok, and did not lose much water) and the car seem to be running a bit off, as in it did not pull as much as it used to. Is the cam position sensor near the Aux Water Pump, could I have knocked it a bit? Or could I be imagining this limpness? Thanks D.

Hello all. I found a leek coming from the Aux Water Pump the other day, so I went to G&S to get another one. £58 later :roll: I started to install it, I noticed that it looked a little different to the old unit, it looked slightly shorter. I just thought that this was a revised design so I carried on. Completed the install and tried to plug the wires in and it would not fit, :? looked at the top of the plug and noticed that the new one has two plug guide channels (only way I can describe it) and the old one only has one. Are there two types of Aux Water Pump? Also there was a circular plug with loads of wires that is situated near the water pump, I unplugged this should I have? Do I need to do an ECU re-set because of this? Thanks D.

That cool mate, I suppose I can just tell people who ask about it, that it has got some kind of wild cam in there. :wink: What’s the difference between the two tensioners and how do I tell which one I have got. Another question I have what’s the deal with all these different tests: leak down test and compression test I know that there’s another but not sure. I just want to know what’s going on in there if you get what I mean :? Thanks D

Thanks for the reply mate, Was actually talking about my VR, it’s a bit of an odd one as I gave it a service last weekend, Plugs, Oil, (quantum silver 10w40) Oil filter (Mann), Air filter (Mann), Rota cap, Rota arm (original still glued on) and front engine mount. All the old plugs seemed fine, kind of grey in colour. The cap and rota must have been the originals so were quite knackered. Oil was not that dirty either. Done all of this in about two hours, started her up let the oil circulate then checked for leeks. Now the car seem to drive really sweet and it pulls really well, better than it did post service, but it sounds a bit more tappet’y and at idle it feels a bit more lumpy even though the revs stay steady at about 650-ish rpm. The car has had new Chains, guides Rails, Tensioner and that side of the engine seem to be a lot quieter than the other, also had new Tappet’s fitted then as well, and that’s what’s bugging me. Lumpy idle and noisy on the air box side of the engine, Any clues? Should I have also bled the tensioner when I done the service? Thanks for any replies D

What would be the correct method to conduct a general health check on a VR6 engine, I know that plugging in VAG-COM will bring up error codes, but what other checks are there. I suppose what I am trying to get at is, are there any other engine specific test other than a compression test?

Will be 30 in October. MK1 Golf GX in Silver (while at university) MK1 Golf GTi Campaign in Black (while at university) :D :D MK1 Golf in Lahasa Green, (My favourite car) with a fully balanced GTi Engineering RE2000 engine, knife edge crank, Shrek Cam, Super Sprint 4-2-1 manifold, Sebring exhaust, AutoTech anti roll bars, Sacks Sporting suspension. And poly bushes in the right places. Got written off when some drunk Ba***rd jumped a red light and tore the front off of it, still feel gutted about it. :( MK1 Golf 16V in Lahasa Green (sold to a friend and recently stolen from his garage) :x MK2 Golf GTi in red, my wife’s car, in mint condition (its mine really) :) Carrado VR6 in Flash Red :twisted:

Mate that is what used to happen to my VR6, then the :x Heater Matrix went bang. if yours has already been changed, it might be somthing else, if not get the Matrix checked out.

I think is a bit of both really, did have a really good look at them a while ago and i was very impressed by them. Kind of seemed to good to be true un till i actually got to see them, 6 pots to fit under 15"'s , nice.

I rember reading somewere that Tarox do a Caliper kit that will fit under 15" wheels, they are 6 pots as well. 8) I think that they are the B28 or B32 The price was prity good too, about £350 for a set. That Place in Essex Called ELITE used to stock the as i was going to get a set for my MK2 Gti. found some pics. check out the Tarox site, they are listed under the catalouge section hth. Dav