rixy

ok, so you reckon that i wont get any more than 15bhp with 268's and a re map then? My engine is not stock, the head is largely ported, polished, and port matched. Also, the bottom end is all new, brand new pistons, rings, bearings etc, and fresh re bore etc. Is still 2.9 (used 2.8 block and re bored to take 2.9 pistons) The whole lot is also lightened, balanced etc. Also will be fitting a 6 branch, and de cat to go with my cat back Miltek. What kinda power would i be likely to be seeing, and are the 263's still better for my application??

i dont understand?? obv the vr6 is designed to be silky smooth, and a 263 will obv be smoother than a 268, but i cant imagine it will be hugely noticable?? i may be wrong?? Or do the 268's mean you lose a bit of torque down low, in response to the power gain up top?? Are 263 better balanced throughout the rev range or summat?? only reason im asking is because i have a set of schrick 268's in my garage ready for mine.

whats wrong with 268's then?? why are 263's better?? cheers

bought waggy's off him, getting it back to mine in the next week or so :-) 2 raddo's, woo hoo

shut ya mounth u, lol How the hell are ya anyway?? do u have a standard g60 camshaft, or know of anything u can help me with?? I dont need a tape measure, i got a few, and some verniers, so i can be accurate for a change.

any1?? come on, all i need to know is lobe length, and width etc on a standard cam? surely sum1 must have 1 laying about?? help me please :-)

so is a vernier worth the money for a g60 then? as i got a brand new one in my room for an 8v golf / g60 and will fit it to my g when i get it if so?

i have aquired a camshaft for a raddo g60. Been told its a 268 techtronics (i got it from an american guy down the road). Its got a label on it saying 268 etc, and just wndered if any1 had any measurements of the height and width of the lobes etc, so i can make sure it is what i think. Dont wanna fit it, if its a standard one? Also, did techtronics use vw blanks to make cams, or did any1 else, as it has VW audi logo's in the casting

how much is a set of these coilie's then? im after a good set for my vr, and want good handling, and good quality parts etc. I have heard good things about these KW V's 1, 2 and 3. Whats the difference? KW 1 are just height adjustable? 2's are damper? and 3 are damper and rebound?

nah, not yet m8, havent had time, but mine started again yesterday, lol. Its gotta be an electrical fault, as my buzzing was coming directly from the passenger rear door card, but whn i turned my stereo up, it reverb'd through that also, and was interfering! It must be a broken earth or a dodgy relay or summit?

is there any way of getting hold of a complete diavia air con kit - fancy fitting it to my VR? how much cash am i looking at for a kit?

My god what an arse of a job ! Not a bad job to du, but taking apart my car - thats only been together for 2 weeks is sooooo soul destroying, lol! Nevermind all sorted now thank god. Took a few piccy's on the way to help others out if needed! Basically, you have to remove complete front end - bumper, headlights, slam panel, etc to get to it easier. In doing this you have to drain water system of all coolant. I also removed both coolant pipes from the oil cooler to aid me getting the bolt in the sensor. This took me about 2.5 hours to do, and only about 20 secs of that was actually fitting the sensor, lol. What a bummer - if only i'd fitted it before i put the engine in, lol! Typical! Pic 1 :- Before i started Pic 2 - After about 30 mins Pic 3 - After 45 Mins - All ready to have a go at it now Pic 4 - Close up of where the sensor goes - The little shiny surrounded Hole in the block - Just above but between the oil filet housing and the sandwich cooler! (above the oil sender on the right) Anyway, car is now run in, and has fresh synta silver in her - new genuine pas fluid, and new genuine coolant etc and my god does it pull like a train now! That sensor really does knock the power down a bit. Economy is now much much better also, easily sits at 35mpg now, instead of struggling to hit 28, lol! Cheers everyone for your help:- Just one more thing though. Next to the plug for the knock sensor 2 - there is a singal wire - comes from the same loom, has a single female spade connector on it - wire is couloured yellow with black trace - Where does this go? couldnt find anywhere to plug it onto but it must go somewhere?

ok, lool, still not sure what to do then, ha ha. Have now done abouot 750 miles, and have ben revviing it a bit higher occasionally, but only on half throttle, and all seems to be good still. Will do another oil change saturday if i can afford it, and put some synta silver in it. Takae it steaday a biit longer, then see what happens after that!!! Cheers every1

looks slike i got me a job for saturday morning then, ha ha! Will also make sure engine is cold, because my god did that manifold burn my arm last night, lol! Will let ya all know how i get on, cheers every1

ha ha, well should i drive around at full throttle with the hand brake on then, lol Anyway, cheers every1 for your comments. I done an oil change earlier, was surprised at the amount of little small bits of metal floating about in there after only 430 miles. Glad i done it now, all fresh again, lol Anyway, basically, i have had the following done:- Golf 2.8 block bored out to a 2.9 to accept my pistons. My pistons polished, balanced New Piston Rings Crank Re Grind -.25 New Big End Shells/ Bearings New Little Ends Rods Balanced New Oil Pump New Water Pump Block Acid Dipped and painted All New Sensors Head Skimmed Head Ported / polished New Brass Guides pressed in Valves re seated New Stem Seals All New chains and tensioners New oil pump drive New clutch / plate / release bearing etc etc..... Lol, as you can see, a thorough job, and ALL and i mean ALL parts are genuine VAG parts from the main dealer. Cost me well in excess of 1400 in parts, about 800 for machine work (i.e re bore, skimming etc) and about 700 for labour to strip/ rebuild the lump. But - well worth it in my opinion, will last forever again now, and im planning to keep the car until im an old man, no intentions of selling ever!!!!!

awesome, cheers everyone. Had a look today, i know the sensor attatches just above the oil filter / cooler housing, but what is the best way of fitting it there when the engine is in, slam panel etc all fitted? Is the best and easiest way to remove slam panel etc, so you can get at it from the front? Or can i get at it from aboven if i remove the inlet etc?

well i already done near 400 miles so far, going to do an oil change for mineral again tomorrow, will do another 600 miles next week, then i'll do a change again, and run synta gold i think, then start to break her in to normal driving, lol!

ok then, cheers, will look in my box of spares tomorrow and retro fit the old one , obv didnt buy a new one for some reason? will let ya know how i get on - seems reasonable as the car does seem to have a funny flat spot when accelerating mildly harder than normal - just doesnt feel right if ya know what i mean, cheers again.

yeah, but its not the same, wanted to keep a 2.9 and deffo wanted to keep to 12 valves. I dont consider it as that expensive really, seen as i plan to keep the car for eternity, and now i know the inns and outs of the whole car, everything is new, and it should last for another 150k miles at least :D

hi there, just got my engine back for the vr after a full on rebuild. Everything is new, just wondered how long i should be running her in for? does 1500 miles sound alot? Also, should i be running on mineral oil for this time, or should i do 3 oil changes, say one every 500 miles, and increase the grades of oil each time? What oil is best for use when run in? synta gold?

im the one selling the ported/ polished vr head you mentioned. I have just had a complete engine rebuild, no nut / bolt or screw untouched, and used all genuine VW parts from main dealer. Only the best for the storm, lol. Parts cost me over 1400.00 on their own, then machining work on engine cost about 800 quid, that was for rebore (2.8 block to 2.9), re ground crank x 2, skimmed head x 2, new valve guides in 2 heads Then labour cost me about 700.00 to strip my block, acid dip it, paint it, rebuild it, including one head fully rebuilt and ported. So thats over 2900.00 for a complete rebuild. And my god is it nice to finally drive the damn thing again, lol, i missed the vr growl.

just had another look, basically, there is a sensor wire that runs under the engine from the front mount? this has a white plug on it - this one is connected. However, there is a 3 wire plug next to it (clipped to the side of the starter motor) that has a black plug - this is the one that is not connected, and it has a smaller single wire spade terminal next to it - this is also not connected? where do they go? Im getting crap economy which makes me think its a sensor?

ok cool, cheers, but where i theh knock sensor situated? havent got anything to plug it into, so im thinkin maybe i have no got a knock sensor fitted? if not, i need to get one, lol.

hi there every1, i have recently fitted my engine back into my raddo, (vr6) and have noticed a multi plug not attatched to anything at the front, next to the mount. Does anyone know what it is, or where its for? I have the plug next to it connected - this one goes to the sensor on the f ront of the block, however, im not sure where / what this other one is for. I think it is a 3 wire plug, and has a separate smaller wire along side it - possibly an earth? Please help, as im sure it was connected a year ago when i r emoved the engine, just cant remember where to, lol The plug looks like it should be clipped into the plug stay on top of the front engine mount, cheers everey1?

is there a way to test the relays? as when i first got my car, it was buzzing from the passenger rear door card when i put my heated seat on? is this where the relays are kept? How do i test them? Mine might hopefully be a simple relay problem?