sciroccotune

sounds like mine was before i set up the gear linkage as henny says. was a pain in the a** to do but has given me a lovely smooth change now :-)

fiberglass the area and drill new screw holes

its worth setting the timing before you remove anything. Also you may need to remove both cams to get the chanin and cams aligned. make sure you use the caps go back in the same place in the same direction. as the others have said the manual is good

[elvis] Why thank you very much [/elvis] I would say that you need to look at how you drive, if you just drive nice a sedaet then something a bit slower like the 16v is good choice, generally the 2.0 is better with ABS etc.. if its power you want then VR no questions. IF its power with tuning then G60. But im sure you will struggle with the choice anyway but best of luck...you are welcome to try mine for a proper drive if its still about :-)

I cant see thins working as implosion or explosion there is nothing physically in the cylinder to implode and the timing only effects when the spark happens so nothing to implode/explode with the spark means that the timing is irrelevant. Well that what i go from reading the stuff about the cell but then there seems to be some confusion that suggests that you run water through the engine....hmmm..... and that video that shows sparks going 'through' water....well we all know that water can contain ions that will conduct charge, even distilled water can have minerals that will could allow charge to carry. besides water molecules are polar hence the fact that water exhibits surface tension etc.... so it not really surprising to see a spark attracted to water... so over all i say ......HMMMM.... Would love to be proven wrong and see it work so I say go for it!! One more thing, that site that says a engine running on this thing could idle at 1-2 rpm is just nonsense, friction would still apply as would momentum and an engine would just stop at the speed….crazy :-) edit : i like the way you put that mr dink!

glad to hear you are getting it sorted mate, stick some pictures up :-)

1 h4 for the main and dip and 1 h1 for the inner lamps (per side) hth

the pump maybe cant pull the lock down far enough, on my car (with the door car off) you can see it pull the lock down, past the point it the returns to after about 10 seconds when the pressure goes, maybe its not getting far enough and the lock is springing back up?? have you watched it from inside>

i love that kit! always have. would love a yello vr with that kit...in the future! cool car :-)

Hi guys, Im fairly sure that its only Vr's that re all done via the ECU. the 2l16v has a vac pipe to the back of the clocks or at least mine does. The back of those clocks dont even have the place for it to connect. COuld be a case of having later plastics? or maybe my car is odd :lol: edit:i have a spear bit of rear plastic at home ill post a pic for ya later

looking sweet mate, i really like the look with no rear spoiler but if its as stan says, then you best check with audi! still awsome 8) i wonder if the corrado ever had that look when new, i guess it did of course

i think the closest you will get to low seats like the C is to use scirocco seats

thats true mate, the rears are static. they can be adjusted with shims but i doubt many people have it done.

and how is this done? :-)

i did some thing simmilar a while ago, a search should bring up the pics.

Kev i think that the new shape ford focus pass side wiper will fit with no mods, worth a look. I only spotted one in the car park in asda so didnt have a chance to check the size

Im fairly sure that there is no change to the rear... could be wrong however. Im sure i have a list of revisions at home so ill check after work :-) and corrados all seem to be a bit of a mash of parts :lol: i have late body, late tank but with early interior. on a Kreg 16 :)

i was messing with the selector on the gear box trying to get the change a bit smoother on mine yester day. I found that there is very little in it to totally loose a gear !!! (lost 1st and 2nd for a while) a bit of messing and i have managed to get it nice and smooth. I think that chances are its an adjustment issue.

think the first blok is takeing you for a ride. as said £100 on parts leaves a lot of unaccounted for money if you ask me. I have had no dealings with dubsport but maybe some one on here has. End of the day anyone can do a bad job for any price just depends on the garage in question as to if its done well. I would say, however, that £350 would be able to cover the costs with no corners cut. you could look at ghetting the chains changed etc whilst the head is off, there is loads of info on that and im sure i read that people are gettinh that kind of work done for 5-600

it is stupid but the original arms cant always be sorted like that. i have seen at least 3 revisions of the original arms some of which are just total useless. on the other side of the coin i have seen some that are spot on and need no bending or changing. Its annoying that vw never did anything about this to start with! As for the TT option is does look good, i have been recently looking at sarb 93 turbo arms as an option...

that is very expensive for a HG change. 3-600 is closer to what it should be. Its not that hard of a job. One thing is you have not said which car you have....

i have a mph dial pm if interested

just th front that changes as far as i know. you can fit the newer archs to the early cars if you like. would need matching bumper of course.

options i believe, you could get some well cool stuff. ill see if i can find the pdf of the sales book for ya

you could get 16v and g60 with wider arches but not wider track - only vr have the widest track. the later vr cars were given some extra hight by vw as many people decided that the C was to low :roll: