Dutch24V

Sold mine earlier this year for 1300 uk pounds. That was with all the required bits too, ie, solenoid/switch/actuator, vacuum reservior, the original chip plus a unichip with a stealth remap on it. Dutch

Excellent. I need to buy the 2 switches then and I guess a mounting point needs welding on the pedal box for them? I'm getting the downpipe made and the bracket for the accelerator pedal welded on Monday hopefully so I can get the switch brackets made then too if neccessary? The place that's doing it is called G-Force International and they've done a couple of 24v transplants into Corrado's so hopefully it won't be problem. They're also the guys that did the 570hp/720 Nm TT 3.2 Turbo with a DSG box so I'll ask how it's holding up while I'm there. Dutch

Arse. Coxy, is the switch wiring in the loom I've got then? Dutch Supercharged, I don't have cruise control mate :)

I thought you purchased a brand new head Will? Dutch

Clutch switch? Why - to close the throttle temporarily on gear change? Am I supposed ot be fitting one as well then? As I'm using the oe box and clutch arangement I don't hink it's neccessary is it? Dutch

Pressed both out with relative ease today using the TT press thingy :) Onto the next job... Dutch

Next time you start her and she struggles, when you finally get her started turn her of straight away and try to restart. If she then starts with no problem you can bet your money it's the secondary fuel pump. Dutch

Bentley states that the front bumber forms part of the front subframe and hence the C should never be driven without one. Dutch

OK, thanks for the tip. Will try this evening, if not hopefully the press will shift it tomorrow. Dutch

Anyone? ...and yes I've searched. I'm borrowing an audi TT driveshaft press thingy from VAG tomorrow evening so hopefuly I can get it out with that. Dutch

I've undone the large bolt in the center of the wheel but the shaft won't pop out. I've tried whacking it out with a piece of wood and a hammer but don't want to hit it harder before checking if it's only rust holding it on. Are there any other bolts or something I need to remove to get the damn thing out? The problem is I didn't lift the one on the gear box side up when I dropped the new engine in and hence cannot get it back up where it's meant to be :oops: Dutch

I'm driving a VW Caddy SDI at the moment and it only starts first time when it's hot weather, even though the glow plugs, fuse and relay are new. I found out over the weekend that the secondary fuel pump in the tank itself is dead, hence the system isn't priming itself and is relying on the main fuel pump to suck the fuel from the tank. If yours is struggling when the front is higher than the back, it *could* be the same problem, as I imagine it's harder to suck the fuel up a hill so-to-speak? I'm not sure if all diesels have this secondary fuel pump btw but worth checking. Dutch

A few more pics of progress. All the new bits are back on as guided by Mr. Bentley :) I have blocked off the water hole on the front of the 24v block for the aux. water pump and relocated the pump up into the 12v aux. pump bracket, which is mounted onto the 24v head in pretty much the original C location. There are a couple of free, threaded, holes in the 24v block to mount it on, which is nice :) I tried to fit the 12v crack pipe and thermo/temp housing, but the pipe was a few mm too short when mounted on the 24v block. In the end I used the 24v crack pipe (which is a few mm longer :) ) and mounted the 12v thermo housing to that with no problems, so all the water piping will remain the same as the 12v setup :) Excuse the poor camera phone photo's. Dutch

Finally made some more progress over the weekend :) The front mount bracket is now on after getting part of a g60 mount welded onto it so it fits the 24v block. Dutch

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After a couple of weeks of no movement things are going to start rolling again in the land of 24v'ness :) After playing about with the 12v and 24v oil coolers I've found a solution to the clearence issues with the oil cooler and front mount bracket. I've simply replaced the long bolt that goes through the 24v oil cooler with the one from the 12v oil cooler. The large nut on the end of the 24v bolt is alot bigger than that on the 12v one, and other than that they are identical. There is now a good 4mm clearence between this bolt and the bracket, with no chopping or welding required :) Dutch

After a couple of weeks of no movement things are going to start rolling again in the land of 24v'ness :) After playing about with the 12v and 24v oil coolers I've found a solution to the clearance issues with the oil cooler and front mount bracket. I've simply replaced the long bolt that goes through the 24v oil cooler with the one from the 12v oil cooler. The large nut on the end of the 24v bolt is alot bigger than that on the 12v one, and other than that they are identical. There is now a good 4mm clearance between this bolt and the bracket, with no chopping or welding required :) Dutch

They did, but only on MKIV Golf 12v VR6's AFAIK. The TB mounting holes will be for an OBD11 TB, so you would need a converting plate thingy to be able to mount your OBD1 TB. Apart from space issues on mounting your airbox etc. on that side of the engine I'm not sure if the ISV will fit/work either. edit: It doesn't look like there is any controller for the vacuum thingy either and I presume that would have been built into the OE MKIV 12v VR ECU, which could be a big problem. Dutch

...but you're TB will then be on the other side of the engine, like the 24v one. It will defo fit AAA and ABV btw, just with the above mentioned problem! :) Dutch

AFAIK that's the OE 12v manifiold that's fitted to US 12v mkIV's, so should fit all AAA and ABV engines. Dutch

bigpants baby, You're still struggling with them? :? I don't get it tbh. You are using a VR cross-member I presume? Any pics. so I can compare with mine? I've removed the rad and slam-panel etc. so can check the mounting holes match if you like? Dutch

Picked these up today and they feel alot lighter than the OE FAG ones (well the salve does, the master is about the same). I've had a look about and FTE seem to be OE on VW's in the US market. Anyone had any experience with this brand? I presume VW UK sell the FAG ones like VW here do? Are the ones from GSF FAG or FTE? How much are these 2 bits roughly from VW UK btw? I paid 209 Euro inc vat for the FTE ones, and it would've only cost an extra 50 euro's to buy the OE FAG ones from VW? Not sure if I should take them back and just get the FAG ones or if the ones I've got are OK? Thanks in advance, Dutch

Stan, progress is slow as I'm buying loads of other parts new that I didn't plan too originally, so finances have been an issue. I've just been paid though and have just picked up some more parts, so hope to start rebuilding at the weekend. I've a new clutch master and slave cylinder, thermo housing, crack pipe, oil filter housing washers/seals etc. to go on, so havn't been able to put the radiator, cooling pipes & looms etc. back until these bit's are on due to access. Slowly but surely she's getting there though :) Dutch

Another quick q regarding the oil filter housing if I may. The 12v one will not fit on the 24v block as it mounts in a slightly different location and the oil feed holes in the block are not the same either. So, how do I stop the oil presure buzzer on the VR clocks as there is no place on the 24v filter housing for the 2 VR oil pressure sensors?? Dutch

I'm going to get the VR pump based on what my VAG mechanic mate has just advised me. Andy advised to get the 24v one as the spindle will be in the correct location for the belt, but apparently the VR one is identical from that respect so won't be a problem, and the presure will be correct too so no extra strain on it. I'm not sure if the pressure is different between the 2 pumps though? Maybe Jay's was an old one that just happened to fail just after the transplant? Which one are you using then Ian? Dutch