Dutch24V

Does that stuff actually do anything though? What's a good brand then, or are they all the same? Dutch

No I don't have any evidence that something is wrong, only the loud clicking. I didn't realise the ECU logged lean running issues. It's showing nothing when I scan it so guess I am worrying about nothing. Thanks for putting my mind at rest Dr. :lol: Dutch

Thanks Dr., I feel much better now. :? ...but seriously?

lol, not sure I actually have a problem though tbh. I never really paid much attention to the clicking before as I knew the belt/tensioner at least was sh&gged and now I've discovered the water pump bearing was shot too. She's so much quieter now that I can hear the clicking (maybe also a sign of C hypochondrias? :) ) I also know they've never been cleaned and have fuelled +/- 160000 km's. Should they need replacing or am I worrying about nothing?? Dutch

lol, yeah I was thinking of asking, but guess all of your original injectors are just that, original and probably no better than my current ones!? Dutch

hmmm, 45 quid is better than 105 euro for sure, might try my local Bosch dealer then. How cheap can g-man get 'em for then btw? ...will have to PM him. Dutch

..and can they be tested easily enough btw??

Garry, thanks for the explaination, now I get it. 8) I would love to replace the injectors, but at 105 euro EACH, think I'll find somewhere that can clean them first to see if it helps. What is the average lifespan of injectors then? Should just cleaning sort them or is it really necessary to get new ones?? Dutch

After replacing my water pump, belt and tensioner the engine is much quieter than before. I can now clearly hear the injectors clicking away at idle, but one inparticular seems to be noisier than the others (not sure which one though) and they all sound very loud to me. A mechanic friend has also commented on them being louder than normal. Excuse my ignorance but why do they click in the first place, and why does the clicking get louder wich age/wear? Also, I've read somewhere before that this could cause lean running and hence melt-down on a piston with the dead/dieing injector, which I obviously want to avoid. New injectors are VERY expensive, so was wondering if getting them cleaned would be advisabe? As far as I know they are the original (over 150000km's now) and never been cleaned!? Dutch

Well, finally changed the water pump/belt & tensioner yesterday and what a difference. A lot quieter and she idles much smoother. I think the bearing was so shot that the resistance was effecting the idle too. I was actually trying to undo the wrong engine mount btw - the one under the coolant reserviour :oops: ...I had to remove the one by the lambda of course, which is very easy to get at on a LHD motor as the ABS pump is on the other side. Doh... Dutch

xbones, yes they are. Ok, thanks guys. Just got back from buying some longer socket extensions so will carry on tomorrow. Cheers, Dutch

...I did find a while back a good how-to on this with pictures too, but now I need it can't find it anymore!! Anyone know a link??

...so I have to undo the top allen bolt (it looks like an allen bolt in that photo), then undo the main bolt on the rear mount? I'm following this: 6. Remove the hex bolt for the front motor mount with an 8mm allen wrench. 7. Remove the 13mm nut from the top of the passenger side back motor mount. It just holds a little bracket on. Stuff the bracket and trailing wires in the corner out of the way. 8. From your two sets of extensions (usually 4 extensions in each set) hook together a bunch of the intermediate lengths, and stick the deep socket 16mm on the end. (2 3/4 lengths and 2 half is about right) Feed it down to the passenger motor mount bolt and take it out. It's *soooo* nice to work with the extensions so that your socket driver is about even with the rain gutter instead of busting your knuckles way down below the intake.. 9. Hook up the two long extensions with the wobbly end one at the bottom. Stand by the driver side fender, feed the 17mm shallow socket down underneath the coolant resevoir and ABS brake lines and stick it on the driver side motor mount bolt with your left hand, and keep your hand there. With your right hand stick the extensions down as close to the coolant resevoir and firewall as you can get and feed it down and through the brake lines. You'll find that it slips between two of the 4 brake lines and hits the socket at an angle. That's what the wobbly end is for. It'll snap right into place. Remove the driver side motor mount bolt. Leave the socket and extensions in place. This is why I end up with two super long extension sets. The driver side is such a pain normally, I just leave the extension and socket there while I work on the engine.

..both engine mounts. The one at the front by the rad. is stuck and I don't have enough leverage room to shift it, and the one below the abs pump is a b&stard to get at. There is an allen bolt underneath each mount, so was thinking I could just undo these as they're easier to get at!? I only need to jack the engine up by 3 inches or so so I can change the water pump. Dutch

I can't undo the 2 engine mounts from the top nuts, so was wondering if I can undo the allen bolts underneath them instead? If so, is it an 8mm allen socket I need for both?? Dutch

Good point there dr_mat, and my secondary pumps bearings are also shagged so don't really trust the combination to drive the 130km's round trip to work tbh. :( B*llix, guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend! Dutch

I've found a guide to doing the water pump and it doesn't seem too bad as it goes. Will undo the exhaust manifold along with the engine mounts though as I don't want that breaking too! Yeah, bloody wiring. The wiring around the blower motor is all taped together with the alarm wiring, so guessing (hoping) it's something round that area. All the other wiring behind the dash was very tidy with no loose ends etc. so fingers crossed. What's the worst that can happen if I drive the car and the water pump seizes? Obviously I'll keep an eye on the temp. and will stop if it starts rising too high, but more worried about the pulley actually coming off and doing some serious damage to the crank pully etc.?? Dutch

Also, the wire you can see in the above pic. that runs under the airbox is chaffed down to the bare wire. I presume that's not good, but what is this wire for - the headlights? Rich, I'm not sure what part you refer to earlier now as the water pump and it's pulley are the only 2 bits I can see on ETKA? I'm going to order a new pump and pulley anyhow as I presume the pulley shouldn't have any play in it (about 2mm in my case) when the belt tension is released? The bloody fuse for my blower motor keeps blowing too, even when the motor is disconnected? :roll: ...and the reverse lights have both decided to blow and my alarm is acting a little funny - arming itself every now and then and not stopping when I disarm it. I've had to rip the wires off the siren for now! I guess we buggered up some wiring when we did the heater matrix? I don't know, it's all too random and along with the water pump it's not been a good day for the C :( Dutch

Err, having investigated further, I think the PAS pump is ok. :) The belt was still turning the water pump pulley, which is now what I believe to be the problem. It wobbles severly and has about 2mm play in it when the belt is slack!? I think this must be the same as your problem then Rich, which is even cheaper, but how do I get to it? It looks like I'll have to jack the front of the engine up about 4 cm to access properly? Is that possible? See pic. (look at all that lovelly oil pouring out from the HG too :oops: ) Dutch

Yeah, thank god. 8) Not that I'm aware off, or at least I didn't notice and it didn't whine like I've heard VR ones do before!? They look fairly straight forward to replace, but is there a drain hole or something for the fluid? Dutch

This is the bugger: PAS pump?

Got a quote of 250 euro inc. VAT for the PAS pump. He said it was the same as in a Polo? :? - that can't be right surely?? Going to call another VW dealer to check...

Well, having done some further investigation it appears that the PAS pump is shagged. Just for confirmation its the pump with the large pulley down and directly in front of the crank pulley? It has a pipe running out under the radiator and then back under the engine - I presume that's the PAS pump? Anyhow, If I turn it by hand, sometimes it spins freely, then others it sticks badly and makes a grating metal sound, and it's almost at the point of locking up for good I think. Now calling VW for a price, but I bet it's expensive!? :( ...still, at least it's not the crank or big ends so can't complain... Dutch

Well, it seems to be a pump bearing of some sort as it goes when I release the belt tension :D I'm going to remove the inside wheel arch and investigate further but presumably it's ok for me to drive short distances as whatever it is should not damage the engine if it breaks, or am I missing something hear?? Dutch

Rich, that sounds like it *could* be my problem too, or something simular I'm hoping. Is that an easy part to change? Dutch