Dutch24V

So it's OK when warm/hot? If so it could be a dodgy blue temp. sender, if not then your ISV probably needs cleaning/replacing. Congrats, you might need the full set of 3 8) The blue temp. sender tells the ecu how hot the engine is. If it's fecked then strange things can happen. As you're there anyhow you might as well replace all 3 (yellow, blue and black) temp. senders as a start. It's also the cheapest option. Dutch

No worries. 90-100 is too hot imho. I would get a new yellow sensor too while you at it - they're only a fiver or so and not that hard to change. The air valve I think you're talking about is the crank breather valve I reckon. It attaches too the large air tube running (after the MAF) from the air-box to the TB and the cam cover. It's a round valve that's in the middle of the small tube that links these two. You can get just the valve from ford btw - VW only sell the whole thing as one piece and at a cost! Is it leaking then? AFAIK all VR's rev to about 1500 rpm when first started and quickly settle on 7-800 rpm (if cold). At least mine always does this. I noticed it stopped doing this when my crank sensor was dieing btw, but restarted when a new sensor was fitted. If it's only for a split second as soon as she fires up it's OK. Dutch

The black temp sender triggers the 3rd speed. The other 2 speeds are triggered buy the yellow temp. sender AFAIK. Speed one should come on at 80ish and 2 at 90ish (I can't remember exactly) and the 3rd one is a last resort that comes on at something over 100 I guess. What temp. does your guage say when she starts to try and take off? If you disconnect the black temp. sensor in the thermo housing (front right of engine, just below the manifold) do the fans stop? Dutch

Howdy BGVR Which sender switch did you replace? Sounds like the 3rd speed is being trggered so you'll either need to replace the black temp. sensor (3rd speed fan switch, right-most of the 3 in the thermo housing) or the fan controller itself. Do speeds 1 and 2 function normally? Dutch

The snow has finally reached us today (Rotterdam) :D ...so thought I'd post the a couple of pics. of dutchvr6 enjoying the white stuff:

7 years of VR ownership and I still love flooring her. Can't beat it and I love p&ssing off BM/Merc/Audi drivers 8) I just cannot submit to a rep. mobile either, which is not a good thing as I found myself doing 225 kph past Schipol today with said merc prick still trying :oops: ...and my speeding ticket total this year has now surpassed 1350 euro's :oops: :oops: :oops: Dutch

By the sounds of it your ISV is OK, as when you disconnect it the rev's rise temporarily. If it was stuck you wouldn't notice a difference. Dutch

Heardy, I had these exact same syptoms and it turned out to be the MAF. When cold and on choke it was ok, as soon as it came off choke it would randomly stall/hunt/idle too low etc. VAG-COM won't flag it either and the car still appeared to have full power up the rev range too. Maybe an idea to check your's with another MAF to see if it fixes the issue. Dutch

Maybe your aux. pump is shagged? Mine was intermitent when on it's last legs too. Hope you get it sorted though mate as I know how frustrating it can be. Mines still going good touch wood... Dutch

I'm going through the renewal procoss at the moment and it's a nightmare. I currently pay 1700 euro's per year full cover. That's with 45 % no claims discount and I'm 32. F&ckers. How can it be that much more expensive than in the UK?? The best renewal I've got so far is 1200 euro's p/y!! Dutch

Mine wasn't working for a couple of months too, and normally it's not an issue, but as said in the worst case if the engine is very hot when switched off it could lead to problems. Dutch

I'm wondering if you maybe you connected your aux. pump the wrong way!? This might explain the higher temps. when running as the flow from the aux. pump would be against the flow of the main water pump. Just an idea. You can buy the connectors from VW still so maybe an idea to get one to prevent it being connected the wrong way in future. Dutch

I've just checked the Bentley and the wires should be Brown & Red/Black, so yours are ok. :) As far as I know there is only one type of aux. water pump accross the VR models, but the new one I got from VW last week is slightly different than the original I took out! The actually motor body is shorted than the orginal and there is a larger plastic sheath around the bottom. The bottom rubber holder will not fit over this plastic sheath. Mine now hangs on just the top holder. Other than that they are the same though. Dutch

Err, Kev, 100 is fine? Mine normally sits at 70 and NEVER goes above 90, ever, even if stuck in traffic for an hour in the middle of summer. I wouldn't be happy if mine sat at 100 put it that way. Also, after talking to Chris (RW1) I'm sure the aux. water pump should not run just by switching the ignition on/off as you say. /Quote My 1995 Corrado “does not”/”never has” run the aux. pump unless either the ignition is on, engine running or not or….. when the ignition is turned off AND the engine is hot, ie. the yellow sensor has tripped on. In the latter condition it runs, as soon as the ignition is switched off, the rad fan and aux pump until the yellow thermo switch trips off. Turning the ignition on & off does not trip the pump on when the engine is cold. Quote/ The aux. water pump keeps the coolant circulating when the ignition is off, engine is hot AND the fans are on. As I have found out without an aux. pump, the ignition off cooling cycle is very ineficient as the fans are only cooling the water in the radiator, which is kind of pointless and can lead to warping of the head in the worst case as the coolant their is can stay very hot for a long time. Dutch

Thanks for clearing that up. My VR was manufactured in March '94 and it has the later type controller with 3 fuses in, so should work like yours then. I will short pins 1-4 and see what happens, but I think it's now all working as it should. Thanks again Chris... Dutch

Hmmm, from what Kev was saying earlier in another post I thought that the aux. water pump after-run comes on even if you flick the ignition on and immediately off again, regardless of engine temp. Quote\ The after run is triggered when you turn the ignition off, even if you just flip the ignition on then off immediately, cold or hot. I'm sure the controller governs it. Some of the wires in the left hand plug on the controller dissapear into the car, see if you can trace them to the fuseboard. \Quote Is this not the case then and am I worrying about nothing? Dutch

Stan, thanks mate...

A20LEE - are you still interested btw? Stan, if you could PM his details over I would appreciate it. I'm still not sure what to do but think I'm going to go this route. Cheers, Dutch

Hi Chris, Thanks for all the help. I have replaced the aux. water pump today and all is working well, except the after run still doesn't work when the ignition is off? I found the wiring for the 3rd speed controller too - it was trapped under the battery, the Black/Yellow wire was chaffed through and touching the bodywork! I guess this explained the fuse blowing!? Anyhow, I have fixed the wiring up and tydied it away for the time being as the temp. sender which is disconnected has 4 pins, not 2. Guess I need to get one with 2 pins for a VR without air co.? So the last remaining problem - the aux. water pump after-run. Guess it's the fan controller itself then, or does the 3rd speed fan temp. sender need to be connected for it to work? Dutch

I too have had some success 8) I replaced the aux. water pump and found the connector for the 3rd speed fan switch. It was trapped under the battery and had chaffed through, exposing the the brown wire which was touching the bodywork! My aux. water pump was totally shagged too and coolant was leaking up through the motor itself and into the wiring on top. Anyhow, one or both of these was casuing fuse 6 to blow. I now have an interior blower too now so nice warn air again :) Dutch PS. DelMonty, I may still need a fan controller though as the aux. pump still doesn't run when the ignition is off? I will check the number over the coming weekend. Cheers...

Stan, that is avery good price, but like you say there's a bit more to it. If price is the key I think the 24v route will be cheaper (if not done to Jay's perfection of course), but let's see what your man thinks when he's weighed them both up. I'm curious to know actually. Lee, I kind of like the idea of having a new block too, even though mine is also probably OK :oops: ...and doing exactly as you say - could build a very nice engine over the winter and drop it in in the spring. I'd learn alot from it too and would like to keep her as original as pos. too. Hmmm, well, let us know what you decide then Stan and we can all take it from there. Dutch

Yup!

You would hope so wouldn't you? I wonder though..., Phat / Jay / Coxy?? If a low mileage good priced 24v came up I'd be as tempted as when coxy's was available, but until then I'm still thinking of rebuiding the VR. Dilema's dilema's... Dutch

I don't think they use the same block do they? - otherwise you'd get loads of people whacking a 24v head on the VR block surely? Dutch

Kev, 12v parts won't be obsolete for years as it was in the 2000 model Sharan, at least the LHD model anyhow!? ...but I see your point and that's why I can't decide what to do :? A 12v with a VSR is very simular to a standard 24v though isn't it, at least the torque curve looks very simular from what I've seen? Dutch