Dutch24V

Hi EDSTARVR6, My plug 6 is fouling up every 2-4000 km's depending on how I drive. It has been doing this for over a year now. I just replace the plug when it starts missing on that cylinder and keep and eye on the oil level religiously. I know my headgasket is on it's way out and the valve seals/guides/piston rings too but can't justify a rebuild just yet. She doesn't smoke (that I can notice in the mirror anyhow) and she has +/- full power. If your plug is getting fouled in a simular time frame and she isn't noticably smoking when you boot it and she still pulls like a train I personally wouldn't worry about it just yet!! Dutch

Yep, can vouch for that!!

sounds nasty :wink:

...and they have never squeeked and dust is minimal as far as I'm concerned!!

I have had 2 sets Red-Stuff on my VR over as period of 3 years now and no problems at all (appart from the current slightly warped discs, but put that down to them being shite as they're zimmerman drilled ones that are renowned for warping anyhow) Dutch 2p....

I would imagine warped discs for sure. I know for a fact mine are warped slightly and I have the same issue. At low speed it is not as noticable as hard breaking from speed mind. Dutch

Yep, sounds identical to mine mate. I also replaced everything from coil pack to Lambda etc. to no avail. It would seem that the MAF has a life of about 10 years and now LOTS of them are beginning to fail. Problem is the car will still drive OK, fuel consumption is also OK and VAG-COM WILL NOT report the MAF as faulty unless it is totally dead. I'd give it a shot as you will notice the difference in power too once you have a good one again - especially if your is the original!? ...BUT - I would try/check the TPS first as this could be the problem on it's own - and it's a lot cheaper (30 quid or so) and takes 2 minutes to replace. You will have to do the full ecu reset propcedure inc. basic settings after replacing the TPS btw. Dutch

BTW, he's on holiday until next Tuesday I think!

I paid 35 euro for a TPS from VW and it took 2 minutes to change. Once changed you must do a full ecu reset and basic settings though... Dutch

...err, can't remember to be honest but it's stamped on your existing one. Also, take the Bosch number and order it direct from them as it'll be a lot cheaper than VW. I can't remeber the exact details now but there were 2 different MAF's for the VR6 and one has been dropped. My original one ended in 461 (from a 03/'94 VR) and I think (don't quote me on this) that this has been replaced by one ending in 462A. I will check the number on the new one this eve. to confirm. This was all sorted for me by Bosch though based on my license plate. Cost 270 euro inc. (part ex.), where as VW wanted 350 excl. !!!! Dutch

I had identical symtoms as yourself for a long time. Replaced all suggested items followed by the ecu reset procedure but to no avail really. Things improved a bit but she still hunted when started from cold and still kept dieing at lights etc. VAG-COM showed nothing unusual and I had no vacuum leaks etc. Once I changed the TPS and MAF sensors though and did a full reset she was totally transformed - pulls much harder and smoother, starts and settles on idle immediately from cold and she hasn't stalled once since (touch wood) Dutch

:) ...exactly how I felt when reading simular posts Nick, so I got one. For 125 smackers (inc. posting) you really can't go wrong. I also brought one as the Unichip that came with the VSR from Asim was mapped with the VSR and an AMD enlarged body. Asim sold his body before I got a chance to have it so thought I'd better get the engine back to the same spec. the unichip was mapped on before fitting. I haven't fitted the VSR & Unichip yet so am running the TB with a standard mapping and it still makes a very noticable difference. Totally wakes the engine up accross the range and from 3000 she flies. I have a new MAF also so the extra airflow is definately picked up and the fueling increased acordingly. Not sure if you would feel the same benifit on an old MAF though?? Dutch PS. Kev, I quickly lengthened the cable this morning and now she feels a bit unresponsive between 1-2000 rpm. Guess I over did it so will *play* this evening to get just right.

Ok, will adjust that tomorrow eve. then and just develop a light foot for the drive to work tomorrow! Cheers mate...

Yep, very easy mate, even for a novice mechanic like myself! The mechanism itself felt 'stronger' and more solid than my old one and the pedal feels just a little firmer. Not a bad thing and certainly not stiffer if you get what I mean!? :? The pedal now stops about 5mm from the stopper on the floor though so if I push the pedal too hard on full throttle it stetches the cable a bit. Should I adjust this or just develop a lighter right foot??

Well, it's fitted and... :lol: :lol: :lol: Works perfectly Kev and still has a very progressive throttle! 8) It seems to free-up the engine a huge amount and she pulls noticably harder accross the rev range, particularly from below 3000 rpm. The induction noise is a little more noticable too, but not in a nasty sounding way The idle is much stronger like you say and it is indeed easier to drive on it for some reason!? The spring feels a tad firmer than on my previous body also and dropping to idle is far more solid. For 125 quid ex. you can't go wrong!! Dutch

nice one, cheers mate...

ok, thanks - and just wack it on or grease it first??

The TB gasket I have from VW is metal and has a small groove running round the circumference that is raised one side and sunken the other. Stupid question: Which way round should I fit it? ...and should I grease the gasket before installing or just wack it in?? Dutch

...was wondering about that! Cheers for the tip - literally plug'n'play then, which is nice!!

...Got my enlarged 2.9 TB today. Cheers Kev - will probably fit it tonight and post results tomorrow...

...something as important as fuel lines - VW OE ones all the time. Sod expense as a burnt up VR would be just a little bit more expensive to put right!! Dutch

Sorry to hear that rmn - must have been a nightmare watching her burn up!? Hmmm, sounds about right as they're over 10 years old now. I'm just going to replace ALL the rubber fuel lines me thinks to be on the safe side - and fit them with fuel line jubilees! I had the Airbox totally out Tuesday eve. for refitting my helmet resonator 8) ... and I had a quick look at the CC lines and all looked OK at a glance. I also replaced a clip that holds the top part of the airbox to the bottom as one of mine was missing! Cheers, Dutch

Your C didn't burn I hope?

Thanks for the advice rmn. These are the ones I'm going to get replaced soon though so hopefully the C won't spontaneously combust!!

I notice that the newer (post '92) american VR's have an air pump that runs on cold starts to prevent it from running too rich!? Why didn't we get one of these then?