Dutch24V

Stan, not sure mate tbh. I'm going to test the pump and wiring this weekenk. I hope it is as simple as that :) Will, I do that every night mate :) Must have speant nearly 14 months 'not caring' now :D Dutch

After a successful weekend everything seems to be working fine now except for the fuel pump. I've disconnected the ignition coils and she turns over fine. All the electrics are also good, the TB opens with the accelerator pedal so the ecu seems to be working fine too, it's just the damn fuel pump to fix. I've tried removing the fuel pump relay in the mkiv relay panel and tested the voltage across the two large pins. ~9.9 volts to one pin and 0.80 to the other :? Not sure if this is good, but there's obviously power to the repay panel where the fuel pump relay sits anyhow. If I short these two pins with a wire and the ignition on but not cranking the engine the fuel pump still does nothing though? I'm beginning to suspect the alarm may be involved, but the company that installed it say they didn

Hi mate, OK, cheers for that. So if mine doesn't prime with the ignition in pos 1 then it's unlikely to work when the ignition is in pos2 and I try to start her? Might try it this evening just for the fun of it. I had read on vortex that it only runs when the engine is running. Dutch

The Multimeter was set to measure a maximum voltage of 20 volts. There were no sparks and the reader took a few seconds to read 12 volts!? I hope I haven't caused any damage, but the obd diagnostic cable led was green, and now it's red :( Dutch

What would happen if I were to connect a multimeter between the battery positive and the metal ecu casing? Will this actually cause any damage? Cheers again, Dutch

I have searched and cannot find a conclusive answer. When should the fuel pump come on (VR)? -With the ignition on, but engine not running? -Only when the engine is turning/running? Cheers, Dutch

Well, I've investigated further today and found the following. All the electrics work fine and as and when expected if I disconnect the white engine harness connector shown in pic1. If I connect this connector though the fun begins. Without this conector connected though the TB does nothing so that would imply, to me at least, that the ecu gets it's power from this connector? If I connect the battery with this connector connected all is good initially. The windows don't work etc. When I turn the ignition on, again no surprises, the windows work etc, but when I turn the ignition back off then the windows remain active etc. and the handbrake light on the dash stays on but burns very dimly. The connector in pic1 has only one wire plugged into it, and this wire runs to the mkiv relay panel (see pic2 & 3). You can see in pic2 a grey wire that also runs up into the same part of the loom as the black wire from the connector in pic1. This grey wire is joined to a green wire shown in pic4. What is this grey/green wire and should it be connected to anything?? Pic5 shows the mkiv relay panel with 2 relays and several fuses. Do I have all the relays I need? The large one is the fuel pump relay, but what is the smaller one? I think if I can sort this problem out then maybe the fuel pump will work and I can try and start her, but I'm now stuck :( I still have no idea what those little black boxes that attach to the fuse box are for either? Coxylaaad, do you still have those wiring diagrams? If so can you pm them to me please? Have you got your car back yet btw? Cheers, Dutch

OK, thanks again guys. I will see what I can find over the weekend. Hopefuly something simple :) Dutch

Cheers meneer Coxylaad :) I will check the wires then and see where they go. From memory they do go to one of those connectors you mention, just not sure which one. With the ignition on or off though they both carry +/- 5 volt. Is that right? I have connected the battery and all was ok. No fires or such, which was nice. There seems to be a small problem though as fuse box has power all the time. The windows work etc. even with the key out of the ignition. If I connect up vag-com the green light comes on on the odb connector, but when I switch the ignition on it goes off and vag-com subsequently tells me the cable is not connected :( Also, with the key out of the ignition, when I connect the battery the TB starts trying to align itself so the ecu also has power. It would seem the x switched circuit has power when the ignition is off, and looses power when the ignition is on :? Maybe I’ve connected something thing the wrong way round :) I'm going to trace the ignition wires over the coming weekend and try and figure out what’s going on, but as the ecu looses power when the ignition is on, the fuel pump doesn't work so hence I cannot even try to start her :( If I get no joy I'll bell you to see if you can figure it out :) Dutch

Can somebody please tell me what the black box things are that are attached to the fuse box? (pic fusebox1) They look like connectors to join several wires together, black, green and blue. I cannot find these on any wiring diagrams and was wondering what they are and what the consequences would be of connecting them up the wrong way? I have connected the 4motion brake switch, but cannot find the connector for the clutch switch. The 4 motion wiring diagram shows them to be a blue/black and a red/white wire, but I only seem to have red/white and a red wires left over (pic fusebox2). Coxylaaad, if you’re still about any ideas? I have also just finshed charging the new battery ready to connect it up for the first time. It's a Deka AGM battery (same as a Braille basically). 270 CCA but very small :) I hope she starts, but first time of trying after all this work I'm a little sceptical. I'll post up results later... R, Dutch

I have a Pacet fan and that also only has two wires. There are 4 wires going to the standard fan, 2 thick and 2 slightly thinner. Can I just connect the new fan to the two thinner wires? Dutch

Cheers guys. I think I've figured the piping out for the carbon canister, but some pics of yours for confirmation would nice Stan :) I'll post up a couple of pics tomorrow of the area i need to check. s.g., how's your coming along? Any pics? Dutch

Almost ready now:

10p and I'll take it for spares :) One went on the bay last week for 500, although it was missing the ecu and few other bits iirc. Seen another go for 1100 recently somewhere with gearbox and ecu etc. Have you finished your conversion yet btw? Dutch

A quick update. New rad and fan fitted. The rad is very nice I must say. VAG supplied, full stainless jobbie, but 290 Euro. Is this the same as the rad VAG UK supply out of interest? Pics:

Stan, likewise mate. I'm using all the 12v VR cooling bits. I've even relocated the 24v aux. water pump from the front of the block back to the original 12v location to keep it looking OE 8) Can you check something for me mate? Which fuel pipe coming into the engine bay connects to which fuel rail pipe on the engine? The top most one coming into the bay is the one from the pump, the middle is the breather and the bottom the return I think. Can someone confirm this? I'm not sure which fuel rail pipe the one form the pump connects too though? Thanks, Dutch

I'm good thanks mate, but am beginning to realise my short term memory's not what it used to be :( This June it'll be 10 years since I moved over here, which I suppose goes a long way in explaining that :) I'm good for parts now thanks, unless you want to pop by Kevs and nick has nice Braille battery for me? :) Give us a shout when your over though and you can pop by for some more "refreshments" if you like on the way to the Dam :D Dutch

Sorry I forgot to include you to the 24v club Bigpants. It won't happen again honest :oops: :) So you are running all 24v stuff, including the pump? Is your car actually driving yet btw? - and if so I presume you have no problems then with the PAS system? I can remember reading somewhere that someone (pos. Jay?) had issues running the 24v pump with the 12v rack? The pump kept breaking so in the end they replaced with the 12v one and all was ok. Maybe I dreamt that though so I'm not sure anymore. Guess we'll see what happens once she's running!! :) Mine will be the exact same setup as your then Stan by the sounds of it :) Dutch

Quick q for anyone in the know. I've just picked up a 24v PAS pulley and belt. The belt itself is a few mm shorter and thinner than the non air-co 12v belt. The pulley is also 1-2 mm less in diameter and in thickness too so no problems there. I am running a brand new 12v PAS pump though and just wanted to check this combination is good for the conversion I'm doing? I.e, 12v pump with 24v pulley and belt. Coxy, phat Stan or Jay, is this the same configuration as yours? Thanks, Dutch

I've had the pleasure of driving a 2001 Caddy SDI for the last 8 months or so and can't really fault it tbh. It gets thrashed for 90 km's or so every day and nothings broken so far (touch wood) and I haven't even had to top up the oil once. It is also fairly nippy too (once you get used to it I guess). One of the plugs is a git to change though as the fuel pump is in the way of it, but other than it's easy to work on and cheap to service. Hope that helps a little. Dutch

Double's, lol, there's plenty of 'hospitality' waiting mate!! Can you make it over by next weekend !? :lol: The radiator is not in stock so I have to wait until the end of next week. Pita though as I need to get the rad on so I can finally build the front back up and get the cooling pipes connected etc. :( Looks like next weekend will be the beginning of the end hopefully. Stan, where is your ECU sitting mate? I'm going to have to mount mine in the inner wing down by the battery due to the loom being abit weird as it's from a rhd 24v. The ecu connectors are not long enough to mount anywhere else. Also, once fed into the car I have enough spare loom to run to the boot :) Maybe a second battery can be mounted there lol :) Dutch

Hello all, Thought I'd resurrect my old project thread :) No movement over the winter as it was too cold and I've been very busy with work, but now spring is well and truly in the air and work is not as hectic I can hopefully finish what I started last year. I've had the pleasure of driving a caddy sdi since last May so am desperate to get back behind the wheel of the beast. :twisted: So today I've gone and ordered 4 new lambda's, 6 24v ignition coils, 6 24v plugs, a vr PAS pump, a vr radiator and a few other bits and bobs from the local stealers. The most shocking part of which was the price of the radiator. 290 euro's :shock: I'm sure you guys can get these for less than a 100 quid from VAG UK? Anyhow, should have them all by the weekend so regular updates to follow. Dutch

The Green Machine moves temporarily into 2nd spot, but I've just made some transfers so will probably drop a few places :( Gerrard IS useless, you need Frankie as captain :) Dutch

Get the o-ring for the crack pipe and the seal for where it mounts to the head from VW, they're cheap enough and it's a good idea to replace them based on the state of mine when I removed the housing. There's 3 bolts holding the housing to the head, 2 long and one short. Once you remove it'll become obvious how you change the thermostat :) Dutch

You can do both but it's alot easier to remove the housing from the head first. Dutch