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Mike Edwards

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Everything posted by Mike Edwards

  1. Mike Edwards
    The late model VR6, 16v and 8v all used the same front springs, while the early G60, 1.8 and 2.0 16v plus 8v all used the same front springs. Hence, mix and match... :)
  2. Mike Edwards
    Top spring plate. You currently have a passat item - 357 412 341A. You need a Golf one - 1H0 412 341. HTH
  3. Mike Edwards
    D*mn - why didn't I look into this before I replaced the wishbones/ball-joints/rack/trackrods/rod ends/arb bushes/arb droplinks a few months ago...
  4. Mike Edwards
    The standard items are too long if you lower the car. There are some shorter ones available from VW for the front, but the rear ones need one segment cutting out of them. There might be some shorter ones for the rear that allow a dust cap to be fitted, but I've yet to identify which they are.
  5. Mike Edwards
    Have you still got the standard length bumpstops in there btw?
  6. Mike Edwards
    Did you have a buyer for yours in the end?
  7. Mike Edwards
    I'm thiking i might take up H&R's offer of a set of springs rated to about standard, fitted to their coilover kit as I liked the damping on the last set I had, really like the handling, but hated the spring rate
  8. Mike Edwards
    The springs are what gives the ride-height, not the dampers. Plus, if you are fitting them to dampers that are shorter between the spring platforms than the standard items you'll be increasing the preload on the springs. This is likely to make the car sit a little higher still - and ride worse over small bumps...
  9. Mike Edwards
    They'll fit fine - but you'll also need the bearings to go with them, and the nut to suit the bearing.
  10. Mike Edwards
    The other good bit about the Kent cams is that you don't need to mess about with modified chainwheels as they're a direct swap... :)
  11. Mike Edwards
    I saw just under 154bhp at Stealth with my 1.8 16v. It had a Miltek exhaust (little difference I'm thinking) and Kent GF1602R cams. These were a bargain at under £200 inc VAT. I had them fitted as part of a head rebuild following a cambelt failure and was very happy indeeed with the result... :)
  12. Mike Edwards
    What Kev says - particularly (once you've got all the nice new bits on it) getting the ride-height to somewhere sensible. A little more -ve camber than stock on the front at whatever ride-height you end up with will also help.
  13. Mike Edwards
    The car will run without a MAF, or without a TPS, or without an ISV, or without a lambda probe, or without a cam position sensor, or without an inlet air temperature sensor, or without and oil temperature sensor, or some combination of the above*. * which can be mimicked by a broken wire to any of the above....
  14. Mike Edwards
    Koni T/A coilovers, FK Konisports, or Koni T/A dampers and H&R springs. If you're keeping it on 15s, H&R coilovers might also be an option.
  15. Mike Edwards
    Yes? Oh well...
  16. Mike Edwards
    The firm who do most of the VR6 engines for VW racers are very close to Bristol. A rebuilt bottom end with ported and polished head is likely to cost over £2k though.
  17. Mike Edwards
    Maybe if you posted pictures of the bits you're asking questions about??? :) The later Corrado's come with different front top plates and top mounts. The top plates aren't required it you're fitting coilovers. You still need to sort the corrosion as a matter of urgency.
  18. Mike Edwards
    Okay... You've got late-model strut-top bearings fitted in the photo of the front shocks, but (apparently) no top mounts. On the rears you appear to have the top spring seat (not required) still in place between the top of the coilover and the top plate - but no top mounts. You also appear to have the start of corrosion around the underside of the front strut housing which needs to be seen to before winter sets in.
  19. Mike Edwards
    Does your car have any squeaks and rattles at the moment? It soon will have... :)
  20. Mike Edwards
    At the standard ride-height there is very little free movement before the bumpstop (really an auxilliary spring) starts to be compressed. On lowered suspension, there is no free movement leading to an uncomfortable ride unless the bumpstops are trimmed. Advice originally came from AMD and worked when I tried it - then I discovered that VW themselves had made shorter items.
  21. Mike Edwards
    Top mounts and bumpstops if you're fitting convetion suspension. Top mounts only it you're fitting coilovers. If fitting conventional suspension, trim one segmant out of the rear bumpstops (retaining the dustcover) and fit the shorter front one in the picture.
  22. Mike Edwards
    If you can get all the other gears it's unlikely to be the linkage - what gear were you in when the bump happened?
  23. Mike Edwards
    Try driving a car with runflats - the total weight of wheel and tyre is just over 20Kg for the lightest combination of standard 17" wheel and make of tyre. Ask Gaz to make sure the high-frequency damping is kept fairly low.
  24. Mike Edwards
    Are they actually progressive, or do they just offer a very low secondary rate to make sure the spring stays put when the unit extends?
  25. Mike Edwards
    The springs say this on them? Mine only gave the figures in Kg/mm - and worked out at 400lb/in on the front and 295lb/in rear. Maybe I should have expressed an interest in the old units earlier? Koni may be getting my money after all...
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