Mike Edwards

Identical.

They may look pretty, but they also work. :shock: Why didn't a do this years ago???

No...

Hmm... By itself that shouldn't mean you need to give it a full rebuild. Or is there something more drastic?

All that taking the wheel off gives you is some extra room. The 3 bolts that hold the bottom balljoint on to the wishbone are still accessible, so the only real problem is likely to be that they will have seized (along with the bolts holding the wishbone on to the subframe...)

Limbering up with a little light swearing before you start may also help...

Interesting. The engines prepared for VR6 racing in the UK supposedly come with a guaranteed 220bhp - without a Shrick. They are blue-printed, ported and gas-flowed ti b*gg*ry mind.

Can I suggest using a large plug spanner with the rubber insert removed? These tend to come with a 22mm AF hex-head on them. You can then fit an allen key down through the middle of the spanner to stop the shaft rotating. Alternatively, take it to a friendly local garage and ask them to jolt the nut loose using an air-hammer. Re-tighten finger tight and drive home to continue work...

16" wheels wheels from an A3 or TT fit over 312mm brakes just fine though.

Current car has 135k on the original chains and clutch. I have owned a vr6 with 160k on the original chains and clutch. Both were motorway cars though.

Sorry - no. The bolts for the carriers are same for the Corrado and the TT so which ones are you using? Hi-tensile 7mm spacers are available from AMD for ~£30.

Well, what spacers you used to get them to line up is always useful.

I sooo hope the last few posts were ironic...

I have a spare (and little used) set of blue Magnecor items. Make me an offer...

From the Mk4 Golf 1J0 412 303. Picture shows the shorter part, a trimmed standard part and a "used"standard part.

Nice to be appreciated... :)

Get a bigger spanner next time Dave... :)

There are 3 different types of spring top plate, depending on model and year. Most of the aftermarket springs need the earlier types.

Ta!

Ta. Or maybe I can just disconnect that circuit at the fusebox...

Will anyone be taking VAG-COM with them to the AGM? My car has the (in)famous VW transponder ignition key immobiliser system. The car starts and runs fine with the original ECU. Plugging in another ECU I have allows me to start the car, but it cuts out a couple of seconds later. I'm assuming that this is a result of the ecu needing to be authorised with the transponder/sensor set-up in the car, so if anyone knows how to do this can I borrow you for a few minutes this coming weekend? In the event that anyone can come up with an alternative suggestion as to what's causing this - and suggest a way to sort it, please chip in.

A LHD rack for Chassis No. up to 50-N-011 487 uses the same rack as the 16v Golf/Jetta/Vento from 1986 to 1992. From Chassis No. 50-N-011 488 on it's Corrado-specific.

What have you been doing to it that would blow the heater matrix??? Oh, and how do you adjust the bypass to make sure it closes fully?

Millway Tuning - Google it...

Well, given that I've only just got enough miles on it to use: 1. full throttle; 2. more then 4500rpm. it's still early days on the straight line performance front. I can confirm however that it is considerably more bonkers than a standard Corrado G60. Sudden changes of direction in bumpy corners will upset it more than the VR6, which is hardly surprising given the higher centre of gravity plus the VR6 is on H&Rs/Koni T/As. Otherwise, I'm sorry to say it can leave all of the Corrados I've owned for dead through a series of fast bends...