Mike Edwards

Fit new bumpstops and topmounts while doing the dampers (you have to take them off to change the dampers anyway). Standard springs last for ever and don't tend to sag unless they have been seriously damaged by corrosion. Loud thumps from the rear end when going over bumps with no passengers/luggage suggests the rear axle busjes are shot.

Hopefully this picture explains better than 100s of words why the top mounts need replacing after a while...

Plus you've been smacking the top of the damper into the underside of the top spring plate... :shock:

If you have to ask why you should buy a G60 - maybe they aren't for you? :D

Nope. Trim one segment out of the rear stops and either trim one segment out of the front or fit the shortened items from the Mk4. Then set the dampers to the softest setting and see how you get on

ARe we talking about a "large sonte" as in - the pedal becomes rock hard, or - it feels like there's gravel caught up in the brakes? The latter is the ABS kicking it...

I have a 312mm set-up going spare - complete with the spacers to fit them to a VR6. £250 inc disks, pads and hoses...

Hmm. If you soften them does the ride get more or less bouncy? If it gets marginally less bouncy I have to ask - did you trim the bumpstops or fit the shorter ones from a Mk4? If not, the car will be resting on them giving a much higher combined spring rate. If it gets more bouncy, I think you may have a problem with the dampers - even if they are new.

No - that's one of the screws that holds the cluster in position on the braces. Follow the bit of metal it screws into (one of the braces) down to where it meets the back of the dash. The screw you want to slacken off is there. There will be another screw at the other end, plus one top and bottom on the other brace.

Nope - roof out again. The rocker arms can be replaced seperately without taking the roof out, but it's their mounting in the track (the water guide plate) that ultimately needs replacing as it caused the wear. To check this, with the roof tilted push down on the pivot for the rocker arms. If there is appreciable movement, start planning when you're taking the roof apart. For some reason the driver's side of the roof will work fine with quite a lot of wear in this component, but the passenger side won't. As always, lube the whole mechanism regularly and you won't have a problem.

This can be adjusted - although it should alwaus sit 1mm high at the back and 1mm low at the front. Put the roof on full tilt, put you hands against the rear edge of the apertue in the lining of the sunroof and push backwards. The whole interior trim of the sunroof will slide backwards. Move it all the way back then close the sunroof. There are 4 spline-drive bolts that hold the sunroof panel onto the mechanism - slacken these off to adjust the position of the sunroof panel to the rest of the roof.

That - unfortunately - is unlikely to be an adjustment problem. Are these scratches on the passenger side? If so, you need to buy and fit a "Repair Kit for Water Guide Plate" part no. 1h0 898 019. Costs about £35 +VAT.

If you want to tinker wirh your car, a Corrado could be the one for you... Bear in mind that they're all getting on a bit, so while no worse than any other car of the same age, the cost of Corrado specific parts (bodywork and trim) means that it's vital you get one in good cosmetic condition. Mechanically, the 16v cars are mostly Mk2/3 Golf, so easy to find parts and fix.

Thermostat housing most likely.

2nd attempt to explain the problem: There are 2 braces that screw onto the back of the dash on the driver's side on which the instrument cluster mounts. The mounting is formed by 2 cut-outs in these braces (one o each side) into which a lug on each side of the cluster fits. The cluster is held in position by 2 screws - one either side of the cluster that screw into the braces. There is no adjustment in this mounting, but there is some adjustment in the position of the braces and attached cluster achieved by slakening off the screws that hold the braces onto the back of the dash and the mounting of the dash itself. Given that the dash is essentially vinyl covered cardboard with some easily bent steel reinforcement it isn't surprising that it sags over time. To adjust the position of the cluster relative to the trim it is therefore neccesary to slacken off the screws holding the braces onto the back of the dash - and the mountings of the dash itself - and flex it such that the metal reinforcement assumes its original shape. Good luck.

Sorry - no. There is no spacer, so it isn't missing. Good luck with the garage btw...

Probably the spring mounting.

Like I said first time round...

The gearchange is the cable adjustment. Look at where the shift cables attach to the shift rods on the gearbox - you need to adjust the one that attaches closest to the engine. Make a note of where the fixing bolt is to start with before slacking it off. Try moving it a little to the rear, re-tightening then try the shifting action. Repeat until happy or try moving it forward instead. Might be worth replacing the gearbox mount as well - the cables tend to need adjusting as a result of a worn mount.

1. Good question - well put (some of them are spare though as standard). 2. Something after-market (wrong type of connector for VW). 3. Check the cluster is seated properly 1st. If it is, slacken off the screws holding its supports to the dash and the centre/drivers' side dash mountings and "flex" the shell of the dash until it lines up. Re-tighten the fixing screws. It's basically cardboard on a (thin) pressed metal frame and sags over time.

Careful application of a flat-bladed tool - a plastic ruler for example.

Yes. But there might be some fiddling to be done with the plastic radiator cover and the hoses to get it out.

From memory about £75 plus VAT. There's a garage that specialize in engine management, ABS and fuel injection systems just 10 minutes walk from where I live.

My remaining VR6 started on the key when I 1st had it. It got progressively worse ove 2 years and 50k miles, but was restored to original by having the injectors rebuilt.

Quantum SIlver semi-synthetic. Available form VW, GSF, ECP etc. If it turns over well enough, but doesn't catch it "might" mean the injectors need cleaning. By that I mean removal, disassembly etc, not just whacking some "injector cleaner" in the tank.