iow_corrado_g60

hello mic, been a while, good luck go for it, you only live once. I haven't changed career as its too lucrative and I don't want to start again, but hats of to you

had a mental couple of weeks at work so this is the first time I have been back, the advice you have all offered is excellent and I want to thank you, I will from this weekend try to start fault finding and slowly cross things off the list,I'm not a newbie to the VR so hopefully I'll be able to sort it, will post back shortly. Cheers Andy

cheers, can I rule out the plugs and leads? as im just trying to think originally what would have started the hesitation lower in the rev range?

Afternoon all, having a few issues with my golf highline. Recently the car has been stuttering under very light load between 1200-1500rpm, then since then the car is still doing that but its having trouble starting, when I turn the key it seems as if the pump is not priming? Could this be the case or could it be something like the fuel pressure regulator, I have also changed the maf as i thought this was the cause of the original stuttering problems. Any suggestions? Cheers in advance Andy

Mic, will have a look at your thread tonight, interested to have a read of the 24v. Thanks, I spent ahuge amount on the white G60, I nearly brought it back a few years ago on pistonheads, havent seen anything of it since then, the VR needs some paint to both bumpers and the lower drivers side door, then the central locking is playing up a bit, once I've sorted the niggles, I think I will probably, get some coilovers and drop it 40mm on the standard wheels. You have any plans going forward? Hello Baz, Still live in Bath mate, yeah I'd totally forgotten about the Aqua G60, only had that for a year, I remember it had aircon, unusual extra on the g60, shame its bitten the dust though. what did Rob buy after that? What are you driving now and are you in Bristol? Hello Scarlet how are you?

A lovely looking 32 Kev and you are right about the colour, silver is very understarted and not in your face. I'm surprised you didnt keep the Vr in the garage though, a lot of blood, sweat and tears went into that.

Cheers Mic, how are you? I was intrigued as to who would still be lurking after such a long absence, have you a gallery would be good to see what your latest Rado looks like?

Hi Gents and Ladies, It's been a while, I just had a look through my gallery and it brought back some very good memories and it's made me realise how my priorities have changed. Through all of that though since I brought my forst golf 11 years ago, I've never quite been able to to get rid of a fast VW and over the years I have always gone back or kept one. I crashed my lupo on Monday and its a write off, so I rolled the VR out of the garage, took her to my local garage and she passed the MOT yesterday and after a service £600 later and she's back, took her for a nice drive last night and felt 10 again. I filled up with 97 ron fuel and opened the taps up to blow out the cobwebs. Cant believe how boring in comparison the Lupo was and looking back how monotinous it was to drive, the sound of the VR instantly brings a smile to my face in the morning. So over the coming months, will be getting the car back up to a presentable standard.... starting with the hesitation im getting under light acceleration between 1000-15000rpm, which im hoping is just the MAF. Cheers Andy

I have to agree with Stone Jag, best to always check the MAF first I've just put the Golf back on the road yesterday, took her for a good drive today and there is slight hesitation between 1000-1500rpm the MAF will be my first port of call. when I get home from work tonight, EmmiB out of interest how much was your cam sensor?

get rid of it fella more than likely knackered by now

With rust I really think its something you need to do properly, things like kurust simply delay it a while dependant on climate. 1. remove the rust with wire wool and a very low grit(120) wet and dry till you get back to the metal if just light surface rust you wont need any filler. (After this is when I mask around the affected area.) 2. use a zinc primer and sand back once dry, repeat a few times for a generous covering. 3. then personally I find it best to use UPOL acid etch primer and sand back once dry, this is slight overkill but with rust its worth it, the more zinc protection the better. 4. use UPOL High 5 primer very adhesive and a good finish, and sand back once dry. 5. Once all primer has dried and been sanded, wash the affected area and leave to dry again. 6. spray car with colour needed leave a good hour between coats you should only need two, then leave for a good few hours. 7. clear coat whole area in a thick layer but in short bursts as the Lacquer dries quite quick so watch for running. Also when shaking can, keep away from vehicle, otherwise you'll find odd drips will fly off and land on your car 8. To blend into original lacquer, use some quality car polish, does act as very gentle abrasive will remove excess paint spray. Wet and dry paper even 2000, I found too harsh for this process. There's probably a much more detailed in depth guide just have a search on the www ;))

VW owner cheers for that, it seems the last owner had done a little bodge which i've hopefully fixed now. Basically they must of thought the seal was leaking and with this in mind the covered the whole channels up with clear mastic which I have now removed, this has then shown me that the seal underneath was the original and there should be no mastic on top of the seal as that is the channel for the water to run off/down. I have removed the top strips on the roof and on the windscreen end, the original seal on both sides has some slight room between the body and seal, I think this is where the water is entering the car, and this is where I have applied a very little mastic on either side I will try post a pic soon as I'm sure this post probably makes no sense at all. Cheers for your help

i'd say its definately a fueling issue, just as a precaution have you checked all your earths recently

Hi All, Hope everyone is well, I havent been on for an age, the mk3 VR is now in the garage and I have just brought a lupo 1.0L for work runabout and I'm after a little advice. The Windscreen has been totally bodged in the past, holes in the sealant everywhere, and due to this its leaking, so I've brought some proper windscreen sealant from frosts. And come this weekend I want to remove the existing sealant, clean the channels out properly and then re-seal. Any advice before cracking on guys? Cheers in advance Andy

Grenny did you change/replace anything else mate? or just the suspension, How long did it take you? Andy

greeny looking good fella its been a while is the g60 standard at the mo mate?

Gents has anyone used rad weld or the other one cant remeber the name..... just as a temporary fixer I am going to be replacing the rad just cant afford till end of month.. Ive heard a few horror stories regarding it clogging everything up but it will purely be a temporary thing, Any thoughts/advice most appreciated Cheers Andy

Hi fla thanks for your reply im 99% sure its the aircon rad, As the top aircon pipe on the right hand side that travels over the engine radiator and fixes onto the aircon rad at the front right, its leaking from the top of that connection on the front of the aircon rad. does the slam panel and lights need to come out when changing or can they stay? also the two aircon rubber connection pipes top right and bottom left do they just screw into the aircon rad or is the any specific way of taking those pipes on/off? Cheers Andy

Hi all please can I have some help its VW but non corrado. I have a 1996 Mk3 VR Highline with Aircon. Its recently developed a coolant leak, so i had a look at it this weekend took the grill of and its coming from the top of the aircon rad. So i think this is going to have to be replaced has anyone done this on their corrado's is there and do's and donts do i need to take the lights and the fron bumper off? Any help most appreciated Cheers Andy

I think i may have one for sale pm me if interested and i will take a look through my bits tonight,

hi mate you want to do exactly what you said in your post as first port of call change all window rubbers, do both sides while your at it.,then if that doesnt fix take the door skin off give the window a shake and see whats going on and report back.......... if you take the skin of the passanger door at same time you should be able to see of any differences

cheers mate sorry forgot to put mk3, going to take the door skin off soon and properly have a look

Hi Oilman, I am doing an oil change next weekend if I get a full pack from you with oil and filter does this include a seal for the filter? Also my VR is on 102,200 =miles no oil leaks and goes well what oil would you recommend; Cheers Andy

Hi gents and ladies, couple of questions firstly i have a 96 VR 5(dr) can some please tell me if there's one regulator per window or a regulator for right and left sides? secondly my front drivers side window will go down but is quite jittery and the drivers side rear window goes up but not the last cm?? any ideas or general info on the regulators would be great Cheers Andy

Hi all, have a massive smile on my face got rid of the 330d yesterday; and had already brought the VR but has been on a mates driveway for last 2 weeks. Got the VR from a Audi/VW specialist in chippenham they took it in as a part exchange; its got 102,000 miles, Black Highline; No rust; fsh; black leather heated seats work; all electrics work the only issue is the rear off side window regulator doesnt work properly sorry for the crap pics there all I have untill i wash and wax, Good to be back Andy