quicky1980

Oh no! You sure it wasn't an electrical fire?

I've heard that some cheap after market coil packs can play up after only a few months. Was yours an original replacement part from be?

This any good for those who feel like tackling the fix themselves? Not had the YLOD yet but will keep this in my memory banks if it goes a bit pete tong

faulty coil pack? did they check this? can you get a hold of a known working one and swap round?

saw this on the forum the other day

Hi Josh, hows the Z4? Let me see some pictures and we can take it from there, no particular rush for it as it gives me chance to source a full CF one in the meantime Cheers

:lol: mine had six! Will check the loom I have spare (not off my car), but may take a while as I put it back into storage after I didn't hear anything from welshwizard for ages.

I still have the loom that I sent you photos for etc, check your inbox :nuts: Last PM from you was... Sent: 11.06.2010, 13:55 From: welshwizard999 To: quicky1980 "Hi fella, sorry been so long in getting back to you been really busy.Looks right, but will have to double check with my uncle as it is for his corrado that is being converted to manual, this is the last piece of the jigsaw,lol. Thanks" So, do you still want it? :confused4: :shrug:

Just remind me, is this a full CF and has it got the washer jets underneath?

Worth a try, what ya got?

I have the 3.2 v6 in mine, did all the conversion myself except for the loom rewiring. all in came to around £3000 maybe less, maybe more but cant remember. The loom conversion and exhaust were a major cost in the conversion (almost the same as buiying another engine!) Drive is fine, it isnt a VR so the responsivness is sharp. But you get used to it and you end up driving the thing better. Sounds are different, 12v is louder than the 24v yet the rasp is about the same. Maybe if I fit a 3.2 into yours you can fit a full working tt dash into mine ? :lol:

genuine bearings are the ones to for too

Had a chat with a friend in the cooling team at work and he mentioned that the integrated expansion tanks may reduce overal pressure to the water pump but only if the system pressure is low in the first place. While speaking to him I looked online to see what the intergrated BMW rad design was like and found this. To me, it looks like a standard type rad with an expansion tank bolted to the side. This got me thinking, might as well do something similar on the rado and retain the standard rado radiator. Looks like another summer project :roll:

Didnt really want to use the t-piece as a way of doing this. Looking on the web last night, others use BMW rads, but none mention part numbers etc so may have to go out and find one myself. If anyone has done this or has come across a good thread where someone has carried out the work, let me know. thanks

Cheers, they werent cheap but not much on a corrado isn't these days lol

gutted for you mate!

Well the car has been a reliable steed over the last few weeks during the severe weather conditions weve had. Only issue was grounding out on a load of ice on a back road, I think thats removed some paint off the subframe! In all I think I did around 700miles in just 2 weeks!! Anyhow, cleaned her up today to get rid of the salt, looking much better.

trying to go for a minimalist engine bay. already hidden the looms.

Cant seem to find a deffinative answer. But how can I delete/remove the expansion tank from the engine bay? Are there any negatives of using a rad with an inbuilt tank? Any ideas which rad' to use for a VR6 to allow for the mod, Im sure I heard a BMW one can be used??

its fairly straight forward. Remove the front end ie bumper rad and slam panel. disconnect all pipes and wires and driveshafts fro the box. Engine will slide out of the front, no need to lift the car or move it. Only tips I can think of is that the power steering sysem can be left all connected, saves on bleeding the systems later on. so remove the PS pump from the block and route the pipes out of the way during the swaps. Gearbox can stay on the engine block during the removal, makes its allot easier to change the box off the car than on! No need to remove wings. No idea how straight forward a dizzy to coilpack conversion is, but I would presume the looms will need changing? if so change the looms while the engine is out. When refitting the engine, place on the engine mounts but dont torque down the bolts, just finger tight. Start up the engine (once all plumbed up etc) to allow the engine to settle into position, then switch off and torque all mounts up. good luck

suprising how many burnt out ones seem to start from the rear, any idea why? fuel pumps?

just watched top gear usa, pretty much identical to the BBC version but didnt find it as funny. Good to see the stig again though lol

bump?

8k!!??

Did you get anywhere with pictures C488ADO?