Henny

8)

G60 Bob, you use a timing strobe with adjustable flash timing on it... you never need to disconnect the dizzy... ;) You can loosen the dizzy slightly so that it's adjustable by hand with the engine running, but still tight enough so that it isn't affected by the fact that the engine's running... then it's just a case of setting the strobe to 6degrees and pointing it at the flywheel and adjusting the dizzy to get the timing mark on the flywheel to appear stay at the mark on the gearbox inspection hole... 8)

that's just the later grey interior... it shows up as a MUCH lighter colour when you use flash photography on it... ;) :lol: Nice wheels though... ;) :lol:

With the engine warm and running, get a mate to rev the knackers off it and watch the exhaust as he lets go of the throttle (let it snap shut, don't ease off on it)... then get him to rev it again (only not as hard this time)while you're still watching the exhaust... If you get blue smoke out of it on the over-run (the bit just after he lets go of the throttle) then you've almost certainly got valve guide and stem seal wear....

nah, that's relatively normal for a highish milage car... you'll probably find it's mostly P/S fluid as they always leak a little from the pipework infront of the engine... There isn't a bolt that goes through that hole as standard as that's just a cover for the clutch which comes off seperataly to help you remove the gearbox... 8) Only start to panic if it's actually DRIPPING oil... What you may like to do is to take the sump off and replace the sump gasket next time you do an oil change... (you may even want to change the sump seeing as they don't cost much!) It's a fiddly, dirty job, but is pretty easy to do... 8)

DICK DALE, you genius! I'll have a pootle over to my local Seat dealer and have a look... 8)

hall sensor? Yeah, they do break down over time and could cause this kind of fault... I'm not sure if the hall sensor is changable on a G60, I just changed the whole dizzy! :lol:

have a word with 16VG60 on this forum... he sells the complete kit complete with the correct length pipes... 8)

8) Good to hear matey! 8)

Put a thin screwdriver in from the inside and move the mechanism by hand... the cable has snapped so it won't move that side via the motor... You'll have to "pulse" the motor so that the other side (which still works) goes down at roughly the same time as the side you're doing by hand...

yup, could also be an alarm/immobiliser fault... what alarm have you got on there?

oh, and just to add to what kev says, they reckon that 'cos it's got a thinner wall than the standard plastic ones, they make a little more induction noise... :| :roll:

alan_edward, sounds about right for a G60... 8)

ummm? The supercharger is ALWAYS running when the engine is... that's the way a G60 supercharged engine is designed to work... :roll: MPG figures drop rapidly over around 60mph as the air resistance increases substantially so the engine has to work more to go faster and hold a faster speed therefore it uses more fuel... This is true of ANY car.

A power rohr is an aluminum (normally, could also be stainless steel) pipe which simply replaces the black plastic pipe from the airbox to the throttle... If you've got the CDA then you're already one step up from a Power Rohr and cone filter, so stick with what you've got! 8)

gibber, yeah, but then you can get done for carrying an unsafe load... :| I thought that only the REAR numberplate HAD to be reflective? You could always just use white reflective paint around the black none reflective letters... ;) :lol:

the switch is NOT important for the starting of the car... it only controls the fan-run-on when the car is HOT... The white tracer on the wire is for identification. It lets you know that this is NOT a standard earth, but is the fan-run-on switch wire... ;) What does the car do when you turn the key? If the ignition lights come on as normal and then nothing happens when you turn it to start the engine then I'd go with a dead switch...

*bookmarked* 8)

2jesper4, Welcome to The Forum! That's some serious useage there! Get some pics of your car up! 8) corradoman24, Welcome to The Forum too! My first G60 had almost 250K miles on it when I rebuilt the engine, and my new one has 159,000 on her at the moment and rising rapidly (I've put 9K on since January!) 100,000 is nothing! ;) As Supercharged says, make sure it's in good condition bodywise, has been regularly serviced and has had the charger serviced, or budget to get it done as soon as you buy the car.

post trimmed of off topic crud as requested by thread author... 8)

OK, from reading other posts, to put 16x9s on a 4 stud car you need a 15mm offset and maybe some slight arch modifications. For 17x8.5 I'd probably go for a 20 or 25 offset to pull the wheel a out towards the arch a little more... but that's just me... :? Anyone else got wheels this size already fitted?

nah, IMHO, if it won't disengage the odds are that the springs in the pressure plate have collapsed, especially if it just suddenly went without slipping or juddering first... that's quite common on G60s... :roll:

That's 'cos the law is somewhat different over there... It's legal to do that over here and was actually standard on some older cars... (MGBs and Lotus Elans for a start... ) Aren't your numberplates also something to do with your road tax over there?

ummm, which engine do you have? (makes a difference 'cos the offsets are different between 4cylinder and VR6 cars)

I can confirm that the RED needles DO glow under UV light... 8)