Henny

No, it's not too big... 8) You'll need a load of silicone hoses and a U bend of some description to get it to fit though... I dunno how easy it'd be to fit it though... :|

if you unplug the plastic thing, do they switch off? It could simply be that the switch within the plastic thing has broken. They're not expensive new from VAG. 8)

A baffled sump has "ridges" in it which stop the oil from sloshing about in there under cornering... This stops the oil from getting away from the oil pump's pickup and stops the engine from sudden oil pressure drops/oil starvation during heavy cornering... 8)

best to speak to Daz about that mate... ;)

Scuttle panel = the tray infront of the windscreen where the ECU and the wiper motor live ;)

ah, the reason I asked if Jabba had had the whole car or just the charger is 'cos one of the good things they do while they have the car is to check the vacuum hose to the ECU and replace it (at your cost admittedly!) if it's even slightly dodgy... Check the cable from your knock sensor too, and maybe even the lambda sensor...

check that ALL of the multiplugs on the back of the fuse box are fully pushed into place, sounds like you've dis-lodged one and it's making a partial connection... ;)

temps look good to me... Congrats on getting her sorted out... 8)

BHP can be measured wherever the hell you like... inside the gearbox on one of the shafts if you really wanted to (and had the kit to do it! ;) ) It's a measure of work over a period of time. The 160ish BHP that VW quoted for the G60 when new was at the FLYWHEEL. You've then got to account for losses due to friction through the gearbox, CV joints and wheels which is where the +20ish% comes in when going from wheel horse power to flywheel horse power.

mistrall, yes, the 2.0 16V has got a knock sensor... although having never worked on one of these engines, I have no idea where it is.... :|

SNS chips are the only chips to incorporate the No-Lag coding. It's relatively simple as to how it works, it's the coding of it that was the tricky bit... the map is the same as any other chip and so can be re-written without destroying the no-lag code... ;) IIRC 5.5 is for the red-top injectors but doesn't need the 3.5bar FPR like the earlier stage 5 chips did... I had my SNS stage 5 no-lag chip re-mapped to keep the no-lag but to have the map corrected so that it's spot on for my 1940cc G60 engine. Give Wayne Schofield a ring over at Chipwizards... He's done a few SNS remaps now and is bloody good! 8)

Red=Fast, yeah, that's about right at the wheels... Add on about 20% for power at the flywheel which will take you upto around 190bhp... ;)

OK, it's only a single fan then (VR6s have a twin fan setup) 8) Right, there's a few things that can be causing this... Disconnect the multiplug off the fan motor (so that it doesn't start up and hurt you!) Spin the fan by hand to see what's going on. There's not a lot of clearance between the the fans edge and the metal cowling around the radiator... if there's some corrosion on the metalwork, then it can bubble up enough to just catch the fan and cause the kinda noise you mention... easily fixed with the aid of Mr. Hammer... ;) The other things that tend to happen are that the bearings in the fan give way meaning that the fans center drops slightly so that it's not sitting horizontally as it should do... that's new fan time... Or the fan itself can come loose from the end of the shaft, which you'll spot if it's loose when you spin it by hand... :| Fans cost around £50 from GSF 8)

humm... It's difficult for us to say what cars your car should beat as you're on the other side of the Atlantic from us, so your cars differ from ours... :| With that kinda spec, I'd be expecting between 180 and 200 BHP if it's set up properly... Have you had it on an exhaust gas analyser? Could be that one of the sensors is dead and it's not quite running 100%... A dead knock or lambda sensor would knock quite a bit of power off while making the car run reasonably well.... Get her checked out fully and see what the outcome is... A nicely sorted G60 should be a nice quick car... 8)

yup. I would anyway, but then I tend to replace lots of bits when I'm only supposed to be changing one... :roll: :lol:

which engine do you have? (the fans are different on different models)

This is often caused by the little cog on the end of the milage counter becoming jammed or coming loose... The same thing used to happen to Beetles, Golfs and other VWs with mechanical milage counters. The other thing that can happen is that the reset for the trip jams up the mechanism and stops both counters from moving.... :| Remove the clocks, open 'em up and you'll see on the end of the shaft which has the numbers on it the small cog which is driven by a worm gear... make sure that these are clean and will turn when the speedo cable turns... 8) It's not rocket science as to how these work, but it is a little fiddly and involves lots of small parts, so be carefull not to drop any! ;) *edit* d'oh... just visited Musicman's links to find they say what I just said in this post... :roll: :lol:

theRuler, yup. Technically if the car is in a condition where it will not pass an MOT you are driving it illegally, valid certificate or not... Your insurance is unlikely to pay out in the event of an accident if the car was obviously not in a state where it would not pass an MOT... However, if they can prove that any accident wasn't the cause of (or caused by) the ABS breaking, you must have been doing something very silly for them to have investigated it that fully! ;) :|

TomB, yup... spot on... 8) (although the gallons reading is an approximation and not a very close one at that... ;) )

Welcome to The Forum... 8) IMHO, Your best bet is to use a seperate live straight from the battery (with a fuse near the battery of course!) and earth the stereo onto a decent earthing point as close to the stereo as possible... Ignition live should be a brown with a red stripe, but I'm not sure where that appears from, so that may not be fitted to your wiring loom... Probably worth probing about with a multimeter to find a suitable point on your fuse box and then adding in a wire for the ignition live... Personally, I never use the ignition lives and just wire my stereos in to a permanent live... 8)

1) Rad bottom to metal pipe 2) Rad top hose + expansion tank breather 3) Bottom waterpump to metal pipe to rad bottom hose 4) Expansion tank to metal pipe over gearbox 5) Middle waterpump to metal pipe over gearbox and oil cooler 6) Metal pipe over gearbox to heater matrix 7) Top waterpump to oil cooler and flange on front of head 8) Heater matrix to flange on side of head I think that's correct anyway... 8)

Sounds to me like you need to strip that caliper and carrier down and grease up the sliders on the carrier... ;) Don't forget to bleed the caliper after you've free'd it up as you'll have boiled the brake fluid and will have air bubbles in it which will be what's making the brakes feel a little spongey and causing the brake fade.

if it's dropping from Main beam to sidelights and not dipped then you have a wiring fault somewhere. If it were the relay or the fuse on the uprated wiring loom, then you'd go from full beam to NO lights, not side lights. Check that the wires for the uprated loom are all plugged into the correct places.

Did Jabba do the charger only, or did they have the car in to sort it? It sounds to me like there's a problem with either your vacuum pipework or an earth strap somewhere on the engine... Check them all out and make sure that the vacuum pipe from the back of the throttle to the ECU is EXACTLY 100cm long.

coolrado, yeah, there's a timing mark on the flywheel. When that's at it's mark, the engine is at TDC and so the timing marks on the bottom pulley should also line up...