Henny

only thing to watch out for Autometer gauges (and it caught me out! :oops: ) is that they're American and therefore use Imperial thread sizes etc... :roll: :evil: Shouldn't be a problem with what you want (volts + Boost) but be careful if you want to put in oil pressure or temp gauges too... :wink:

just about EVERY boost gauge I've seen use a tube to the back of the gauge to provide the vacuum/boost to it... You should be able to swap the gauges straight over if you buy some new ones to do the same things... 8)

Welcome to The Forum kevvv, Pull up the surround on the gear lever (the bit with "Karmann" written on it, and have a look at the left hand side of the linkage as you move it side to side in Neutral... there's a pivot bar in the middle which the lever moves on to go forwards and backwards into gear, and I'd bet that the clip on the left end of that bar has broken off meaning that your side to side movement of the lever now has the added movement of being able to slide off the end of the shaft too.... :| Good news if it is this, as the clip is only 20p from VW! 8)

unless you are actually cranking the engine over on the starter, then just turning on the ignition should not make hte mechanical injectors fire... this is definately NOT going to help... :|

The problem with the corrado armour plates is that they'd have to be so thin that they'd be pretty much useless due to the design of the handle/mechanism... :( I haven't seen any for sale for years and the ones I did see were utter crap, pretty much only any good for hiding the damage once it's been done... :(

look for a broken wire in the engine bay, or a dodgy connection on the back of the clocks...

I think the main critisisms come about because most VW mechanics don't know anything about the Corrado 'cos it's too old now... Specialists tend to deal with older cars more than newer ones and so good ones know faults on Corrados much better then VW mechanics... 8) You're right when you say that nobody gets everything right, it just always seems that the specialists get a lot more Correct on Corrados these days than VW do themselves... :? Personally, if I can't do the work myself, I'd rather take it to a specialist with a good reputation than to a local VAG dealership, even if getting to that specialist involves driving 300+ miles each way like it did when I went down to JMRacing for my engine! 8) :mrgreen:

isopropyl alcohol would be the best thing to use on a cotton bud... 8) Failing that a cheap Vodka or meths would do the trick... :drinking:

Stealth wins on Gearboxes 'cos John doesn't yet do them! ;) :roll: Pretty much everything else though, I'd put them up there together in the ranks of good mechanics.... 8)

Hey! I've stated before elsewhere on here that my car's definitely female (with a severe attitude problem) anyway... The pink coolant's just the little bit of effeminate frill that people wouldn't normally see! ;) :lol:

JP exhausts? yup, they're pretty damned good... 8) [/plug] :lol:

8) Speaking of which, I'm off to GSF to go and buy some now so I can get my car running again tonight! :lol: 8)

nope, G11 HAS been dis-continued and replaced with G12+... G12 should also now have been dis-continued now and should also be replaced with G12+ 8) G12+ can be mixed safely with either G11 or G12 coolants, but G12 CANNOT be mixed with G11 as it will form a jelly type gunk in your coolant areas in the block and stop the engine from cooling properly... This is part of the reason they've replaced 'em BOTH with G12+... 8)

best one to remove is the one in the downpipe and replace it with a 4->1 manifold/downpipe combo... it's not the cheapest to do, but it'll increase power and add a little bit of noise to the exhaust too... 8)

ALWAYS remove the expansion tank cap before trying to replace the temp senders... this releases any pressure in the system and prevents you from spraying coolant onto yourself... put the cap back on again before removing the sensor, and the coolant won't leak very much as the cap will seal the system well enough that it'll only leak a little bit out... 8)

That's standard for a KR engine'd Corrado... :|

Hello, Boot lock: Does the rest of the central locking work OK? If it does, it sounds like you're gonna have to strip out the actuator and de-seize it by soaking it in WD40... A common part for this mechanism to jam on is the rod which connects the actuator to the lock itself... make sure that's free to move when the actuator is disconnected... Clutch pedal: new slave cylinder required... you could try bleeding the clutch cylinder which may help although it'll probably not last long... New cylinders are available from Eurocarparts or GSF for not a lot of money and are reasonably easy to replace... 8) Engine starting: Yup, valvers have a habbit of doing that... probably worth getting the injectors cleaned/checked and getting it all setup nicely by somewhere who knows the 16V engines well... Exhaust: Opinions on this forum tend to be biased towards either Miltech (send a PM to "16VG60" for prices) or Magnex systems... Personally, I've always gone for custom made, but that's 'cos I know a GOOD local place... 8) Hope this helps... 8)

did my rears with Halfords caliper paint (about £8 for the small tin) which EASILY did my rears and was a doddle to do too... 8) Look very similar to the Brembo colour up front now... 8)

I've decided that all of the MP3 HDD head units available at the moment don't do what I want them to, so I've decided that I'm gonna build a laptop into the boot which will run the sat-nav, DVD, MP3 and cameras through the TV I've already got in there! :D Should be a nice little winter project to keep my quiet if I manage to get any spare time! ;) 8)

you could even get really creative and remove that pipe entirely from the exhaust manifold, replacing it with a VW Lambda sensor which would then allow your original lambda location to be used for a wide band probe.... :idea: 8) Or, as Ant says, just shove a bolt into a bit of fuel hose with a couple of jubilee clips to hold it all together! ;) :lol: 8)

ah, I'd misunderstood what they were there for then... :oops: I thought they were the opposite of what they are, IE, lots tougher then the normal springs so stopping you bottoming out when the main spring is fully compressed... Cheers for that Mike... That's why I love this forum... you can learn something every day... 8)

sounds to me like the switch is knackered...

that's a good point beavis, both Jim and myself run with Golf G60 intercoolers... 8)

ATRAK3 is Sony's propriatary file format... ATRAK is what's used on Minidisks and is loosely based on a revised version of the MP2 algorythm... MP3 is also based on MP2, but was taken in a slightly different direction with how it takes out "chunks" to compress the audio... ATRAK3 is the latest version of the ATRAK algorythm to have been released... Pros of Atrak3? none that I know of over MP3 Cons - it's not compatible with ANYTHING else other than Sony stuff... :| :roll:

eh? have I understood something wrong then? :?