Henny

Not since I was 16... :| I'd like to get back into it though, although I have a nasty feeling I'd end up killing myself if I got a sports bike, so I've been looking at stuff like Bandits/monsters and Harleys... 8) Need to get my licence first though, but this day should give me an indication as to if I'm likely to be any good! :lol: 8) It's for a mates 40th, there's 10 of us going and I'm the only one without a bike licence... :| :oops:

Nope, but it's on my list for my 30th next year! :D 8)

I did the red-letter Tank driving day for my 21st and had such a laugh it was untrue! There ain't no restrictiors on Tanks! Oh, and tomorrow I'm doing this... 8)

bottom line is this: Some people don't like 'em, some people do... They ARE one of the cheapest coil-over sets out there, so as long as you take that into account and don't expect the best ride quality in the world, then you shouldn't be too disappointed... ;) I'm not sure what happened with Woody's setup (and I still feel slightly guilty as I reccommended them to him) but he had 2 sets of 'em on his, and neither were any good for him which is why he went for the FKs... it's possible he just got 2 sets out of a dodgy batch, I dunno, but I do know that I've been very happy with mine so far... 8)

I've had mine set at around 40mm lower than standard, but I got a mate at a local pro-race garage to cornerweight the car (set the coil overs so that each wheel has an exact proportion of the weight on it) to get the absolute best out of the handling I could get... 8) The general rule of thumb with coilovers is that the lower you get, the bouncier, harder and harsher the ride tends to get...

yeah, they're hard, but not fillings looseningly so... You aren't gonna get factory ride quality on £340 of coilovers... With suspension, you really do get what you pay for, although I'd actually value these a little more than they sell for... 8)

I've got 'em on my G60 and I'm happy with 'em... they're a little bit bouncy, but are 10000% better than the crap I had on the car when I got it... :| They fit nicely and are a doddle to set up... seem nicely made too, and aren't mega harsh or too firm either... 8)

as long as the cambelt didn't snap, come off or go slack, you'll be fine... 8) I ALWAYS replace the tensioner when I do a cam belt.... it's not worth the hassles it causes when they fail for the sake of £15! :|

yeah... not much fun when that bolt gives up... :( The flywheel mark is vastly more accurate than the pulley mark anyway, I always use that one when timing up my engine... but then, I've not got any choice now as my toothed belt pulleys don't have a timing mark on 'em! :roll: :lol:

1) with Dinkus on that answer... 8) VW considered the G-lader to be a replaceable item ... :| ie, when it needs rebuilding, just buy a new one and replace it.... :shocked!: 2) you can remove the boost return system (and replace it with one of Darren's kits for about £30) which allows the boost to be dumped to atmosphere creating a dump valve sorta noise.... it's different from a Turbo's dump noise though due to the nature of how the supercharger works... It's been described more as the "AAHHH-" from a sneeze (Aaah-chooo)... the main problem with doing this is that the boost return will always be dumping boost unless you're on full throttle which can get rather annoying on long motorway runs and the like... :|

*cough* I've got the original charger on my engine with around 250K miles! :P It's had a couple of services, but lots less work than the engine's had... ;) :lol: 8) PhatVR6, That'd mean that you could take it up to a G70 with a dremmel.... :| not that easy I'm afraid... :( The 60 (or 40) definately is the the size in mm of the displacer inside the charger.... 8)

kongo127, 1.8 16Vs don't have a lambda sensor... :roll: There's an allen bolt inside the long tube on the metering head of the K-jet injection system which alters fuelling... you'll need a long allen key (can't remember the size, sorry) and an exhaust gas analyser to set it up 100% correctly... there are instructions on here (I think they were posted by H100VW) on how to set it up without the analyser, but I've never done it that way...

that thread has the official VW "how to" document instructions on it... if you can't get it right following that, you really need to either replace something, or get it to a garage to get them to set it up for you... :|

have you got a mechanical milage counter on the dash or 2 LCDs on your speedo cluster? If you have the first, then you'll have a speedo cable which drives the speedo and may have either snapped internally, or simply come off at the speedo end.... If you have the latter, then it may just be a broken wire or disconnected plug... In both cases, the speedo drive on the gearbox is right at the back of the gearbox towards the center of the engine bay, on top of the diff housing (the big bit wot sticks out and has the drive shafts either side....) It's the only thing back there with either a BIG thick (around 8mm IIRC) cable on it, or an electrical plug on it... 8) Hope this helps.... 8)

The brakes are self adjusting, so the pads stay in the same place relative to the disk ;) Which is why I can't understand why Kev says that the MKIII or MKIV pads make a difference over the normal Corrado pads 'cos after the first couple of pumps of the brake pedal, the slack should be identical... :| Dunno, I'll try MKIII pads in there when I get my arse in gear and fix the rear ABS rotors before it gets icy again! ;) :lol:

jimsG60, that's what Gav (H100VW) drives these days... Uber-steathy! 8)

The G60 is the supercharger, and you're right the polo also had a G40 fitted. The G part is due to the shape of the charger and is actually shortened from G-lader (G-Charger in German) The number is the diameter of the scroll inside the charger... 60mm on a G60 and 40mm on a G40... there is also a G50 prototype which never got made into a production model, and rumours of G30 and G80 chargers which have never been proven... 8)

G60 pump does for sure...

what was it?

problem is that Oulton park is stupidly expensive to hire for a day... :| Brunters is actually reasonable cost wise which is why a lot of mags use it for articles... 8) Oh, and there's a nice twisty circuit at Brunters too which only uses a small bit of the 2.5mile straight! 8)

Dunno, my engine is still in LOTS of bits on the floor of my garage :| Hopefully new pistons should be arriving at 16VG60's on Tuesday so I should get 'em Thursday and have the car running again next saturday... I'll have to see what happens after that as to if I can make any more events this year... ;)

now that's a proper set of brakes! 8) :shocked!: Really sad to see such a nice 'rado smashed up like that by some muppet who can't even understand a red light... :( glad you were OK and the insurance sorted it out so quickly though.... 8)

I'm just trying to work out the cost of the parts on that table... :| B&O LCD remote (IIRC), Omega watch (I think), Sony Ericson phone, and then the speakers themselves... Dammit Kev, you like to spend your money on nice things don't you... 8) 8) 8) Good for you! :)

yup, and on a Corrado (at least on a G60) the minimum thickness is 12mm due to the length of the center stopping you having a standard size hub diameter for anything less... I'm lucky that my Borbet Cs needed a spigot ring, so I cheated and got the spacers made to be hub-centric for the Borbets, not for a standard G60 wheel! 8) Sneaky, but effective and allowed me to have any thickness I wished... 8)

I'm soooo tempted by that.... lets see if I can get the car running and bedded back in before then... 8)